Actually a copper inner tube would be counter-productive.
Those LEDs are going to generate a lot of heat. The inner tube sits against the battery. Last thing you want to do is provide an easy heat path to transfer that heat to the battery.
Myself included really like the way this light is shaping up. Love reading all the different ideas and opinions. Being fairly new to decent torches I am learning quite a bit. I don’t know what my original number is but I would really like to be put down for another light, for a total of 2 lights. I am aware that this light is still in it’s infancy but I don’t want to be left in the dark (see what I did there) when this thing rolls out. Thanks to everyone involved.
Like TK said a little while back:
Any heat transferred to the inner tube will come from the body which is aluminium + anodising = no benefit
I can’t say the redesign doesn’t look good because it does, but it makes it look like a Lumintop light instead of a Fritz Custom. So I will most likely not participate as I am not in the market for a factory light.
Thank you, Toykeeper, for all your work on this one’s UI. Much appreciated.
I also liked the old “basic” design better, but I seem to be one of few. Very nice project overall. Hope it will see it’s first production fase soon.
I also prefer the original design.
I was intrigued with Fritz’s original minimalist industrial design (committed @ #169) and I continue to be committed with the more commercial re-design. As I see it even with the adapted suggestions, it’s still a Fritz’s design, just the next version :+1:
Sounds like there are strong opinions on the benefit of (or rather lack of benefit for) a copper inner tube. Lots of reasoning for why it won’t work. The body design is so nice that a tweak of the unseen inner tube is probably the first and only hack I’ll be capable of or willing to try :innocent:
Awaiting patiently and adding my thanks to the efforts of Fritz/Miller/TK and all the FW3A team 
You are number No. #667 and #677 on: Interest list , Post # 4 , Page 1 “:FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #4 by FW3A_Team
+1, I put it in the number #1171 on: Interest list updated by pepinfaxera, View page 71, ,
FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #2127 by pepinfaxera ,
How many lanterns do you want in total? . . . …x… units? .
You are number No. #1047 on: Interest list Post # 4 , Page 1
+1, I put it in the number #1174 on: Interest list updated by pepinfaxera, View page 71, ,
FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #2127 by pepinfaxera ,
Out of all the aluminum parts, the one which would most make sense in copper is the pill section, the knurled section at the head. That’s where the most heat is.
I’m not sure why anyone would want a copper inner tube, since it isn’t visible and carries no significant amount of heat or electricity. Copper there would mostly just make the light heavier and more prone to unintended shorts.
Electrically, a single thin wire would work fine in its place. It should be electrically shielded somehow though, to prevent shorting between ground and the switch signal. On mine, the anodizing there was too thin and it seems to have made the driver clock speed unstable, but when I put a piece of paper between the tubes, the clock speed went back to normal. So, if anything, the inner tube might get a thicker anodized layer than the rest of the host, to prevent that type of issue.
You are number No. #373, 515 and #716 on: Interest list , Post # 4 , Page 1 “:FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #4 by FW3A_Team
+1, I put it in the number #1150 on: Interest list updated by pepinfaxera, View page 71, ,
FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #2127 by pepinfaxera ,
Despite liking the old design better, I think I would really regret skipping this one.
Please put me down for one please.
Pardon my ignorance, but can someone please explain what is meant by muggle mode?
an easy mode for non flashlight geeks…just easy on/off…or maybe just a few brightness settings…no strobes, maybe no really hot turbo’s…etc
“muggles” were what the magicians of Harry Potter called non magical people.
Maybe the final design should be modified to be done more like how Liteflux did it.
My Liteflux LF2XT also has an electronic tailcap switch and inner tube, combined with outer body. In order to electrically insulate the inner tube and keep it isolated from the outer tube, Liteflux inserted a thin plastic middle tube.
I wonder if the Samsung LH351D is being considered. In Texas_Ace results the efficiency was quite high and the high Vf is not a problem for a triple.
… I put it in the number #1175 on: Interest list updated by pepinfaxera, View page 71, ,
FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #2127 by pepinfaxera ,
You are number No. #342 and #794 on: Interest list , Post # 4 , Page 1 “:FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #4 by FW3A_Team
How many lanterns do you want in total? . . . …x… units? .
Thanks for checking things for me.
I’m locked and loaded for 2 lights. That’s perfect!
Thanks all involved for making this a reality. Although I’m not a modder, I love having lights that others around me are in awe of.