Good guess, but no.
The real story is, um, a doctor asked me to pee in a cup.
You can sell your urine TK. Most people are yellowish to amber. This is rare! :laughing:
I guess your blood is purple too, isn’t it?
Also, in opinion CRI alone sucks. R9 to R12 values (saturated red, yellow, green and blue if I'm not mistaken) matter a lot. There are high CRI emitters with low and/or unbalanced R9 to R12 values, and it seems people rants about tint for these. And for good reasons. 
Cheers :-)
It is not accurate but it’s the most widely used until today. Many standards have been introduced into the market. Check this link:
Go straight to 54:16 for the demo. Again what you see is not what actually it was, no digital media can currently capture what human eyes can.
- Clemence
Efficiency! I didn’t choose Emissar with nichia because it gets hot too fast.
My english vocabulary is too poor to explain it accurately but you need to understand that CRI is only an idea of how rich a spectrum is for some sample colors. CRI rating is made by measuring spectrum of reflectance (of a few sample colors).
A higher CRI means a richer spectrum. It doesn’t meant that all CRI 90 spectrums are equal and will show differences in colors the same.
Without considering your cones in your eyes, you see colors because object are reflecting a part of a spectrum. If there is low red shades in your LED’s spectrum, red, brown objects and all objects with few or rich red shades won’t reflect those red shades that are not in this particular LED’s spectrum.
The higher the CRI the richer the shades. A nichia CRI=90 with R9=50 has (or will show) less shades of red colors than a CRI=90 with R9=80.
White wall hunting even with different whites is really not a good way to judge CRI.
I remember this CPF’s thread which convinced me to “invest” in an HDS flashlight that was one of the rare HI-CRI flashlights several years ago.
HI-CRI vs LOW-CRI
Temp, tint and CRI, each one has a real and different influence on how colors are reflected and perceived.
Temp is obvious and can be judged with any color because it is just a white balance.
Tint is rather obvious too.
CRI is more subtile and need a wide range of natural colors and artificial colors to measure its benefits.
i have one, it’s nice, but i don;t need accurate colors all the time.
what i don;t want is something that costs $125, or is 6” long, or has a UTI ( User Torture Interface ) - just for the sake of light color - other things are more important.
when i want accurate color, i have an Astrolux S1.
( which cost $20, and even has MFUIOA ( My Favorite User Interface Of All ).
but I still don’t carry it every day because it’s got TBD ( Too Big Disorder ) ) .
wle
NYSVMLNWATA (Now You Sounds Very Much Like Nitecore With All Those Abbreviations) :laughing: :laughing:
- Clemence
Some of my lights are throwers. Using a high-cri LED reallly limits the maximum luminance that is possible and thus the throw.
that makes sense, here is how another person justifies buying low CRI
“has a fairly noticeable cool to greenish shift if you’re literally analyzing the beam on a white wall but I got it for the lumens”
Chicken Ala CRI, can quickly inform the difference between low CRI an High CRI.
The ChickLight 
Top Chick is 6000k XP-G2 72CRI, like the HDS 250, bottom chick is 4000k N219b 92CRI, like the HDS 200 High CRI
one of my favorite CRI tests is the Hand Palm
not to be confused with the Coco Palm (green is not a High CRI challenge color). I roll my eyes when someone posts a High CRI comparison targeting green plants. Its the RED spectrum that High CRI excells at.
Here is the light spectrum from a Cree XP-G2 (note it has plenty of green)
Here is a Nichia 219a (note how much more RED)
Here you can see the difference between High CRI with Low R9 and High R9
next look at the CW XPG3 on bottom right. It certainly works fine to show the hand and the jewel, certainly High CRI is not needed to identify the shape of objects. So if someone wants Low CRI, I can understand. It is certainly brighter. Its a tradeoff, do you want more realistic reds, or just need a brighter beam to reach out farther?
Where did all the red go? The bottom two images use XP-G3 that lack R9, even though one is High CRI. If you want to see a Rosy Palm, High CRI with High R9 makes for a better Flesh Light.
When it comes to getting up close and personal, High CRI Rules the Roost!
Stay tuned for our next episode, Debunking the Myth that Low CRI NW shows colors as well as High CRI NW… here is a preview (NW is just yellower)
Spectral view of an LED with nice color rendering: (measured by maukka)
Spectral view of “white” on a computer monitor, showing how much of that information actually makes it across the internet:
Photos on a monitor are not high CRI, even if the scene they represent was.
But with that much red response, photos might actually look better on a monitor than with a high CRI light!
Im also learning about the importance of R9.
Zebralight has been getting a lot of reports for Green Tint in their Cree LED High CRI offerings. Also true for the Olight S1 Mini High CRI w XP-G3, and in my experience also true of lights w N219c. When it comes to R9, Nichia 219b have much higher levels.
What the camera sees, and what the monitor shows, is not identical to what our eyes see, but photos can still add a lot of useful info, that words alone do not. People often confuse white balance with tint, a typical example is when someone claims their NW led shows colors better.
here is a NW low CRI led R9 content, compared to an N219b R9 content
I combined image clips from these posts by maukka
That Astrolux IS a High CRI light, with an R9 of 67. The NW Ti S Mini has an R9 of –22. They do look different from each other, “in real life” and also on a monitor.
I think the point is that it’s relative.
You should technically be able to tell the difference, just imagine the spectral response above multiplying the response of the monitor, compared to a low-CRI response multiplying the response of the monitor.
The resulting output from the monitor will be different, although how much is debatable.
I’m just kinda hopping in here, but after trying high CRI with 2x D4s(1st/2nd batch) and a MF01 I can definitely tell the difference from my other lights, but I’m starting to veer away from high CRI offerings because I just prefer slightly warmer than NW. I still like the high CRI, but I want high CRI from 4000k to 4500k and I’d straight up turn down a light that’s higher than 5000k high CRI or otherwise. I would take something with less CRI in a warmer temperature in that case.
We like what we like.
Used to have to settle for awful blue tint, nice we’ve got so many options now!
Here’s my normal LED backlit sRGB gamut monitor where the spectrum clearly shows the individual R, G and B subpixels. While the CRI is only about 90 the Rg index in the TM-30-15 is over 100 which means that the gamut (range of colors) is actually larger than a perfect blackbody with the same CCT.
However, I have no idea if this emissive technology can be compared to a reflective real world object.
The ambient light measurement method also skews the color temperature, although the monitor has been calibrated to D65.
It depends on the application for me.
LEDs incorporated into products that intentionally are supposed to give good colours (IE photography lighting), I think a HCRI is absolutely essential. If its for applications where the HCRI is not going to make a difference in the products end user experience, then maybe there not so important.
Its completely depends on the user, product, cost and end result desired. :+1:
Agreed. Need that red in the high CRI to get the beautiful rosy tint we all love.
Unfortunately, the 219b just doesn’t cut it for my uses these days. Output is far too low compared to modern emitters.
The tint can be rosy regardless of high Ra or R9.