I’m interested in one, already posted at #1192 but not on the list, must have been missed. thanks
Post #1283
Now
I agrees with using the Micro USB, keep it simple, and cheap!
Keep up the good work DBSAR!
I second that. Most of my items use Micro USB. But my all most-used items use type C already and for my buying Micro USB ones is just going backwards. I do not see the choice of Micro USB as wrong and I recognise that for some users it can be a better short-term solution. And medium-term probably as well.
At the same time I strongly prefer Type C - it is a standard now and will become the standard soon.
Added 
I agree and although at the present time I need both if I leave the house, I feel sure that ‘c’ will become the standard.
I recently got a Note 8 phone which uses the type C and I have to admit the C is much easier to use if your eyesight is failing(or in a dark tent) completely eliminating the hassle of figuring out the plug orientation. It is so much easier for me. For those that have reservations about having to buy a type C cable……If you dont have anything that uses C now, you soon will and I cant see the small (if any)additional cost of the C plug being a issue.
Congratulations on the progress! I’m already on the list at position 535 for 1 lantern. Can I get added for another 2 lanterns please. Also is there a rough idea of price yet?
Add me to the list please. (1pcs)
And if we are taking a vote, usb C is the way to go this days
Not yet for a price range.
As an estimation to the price range, I would say (BLF Q8 GB price-cost cutting=final price)
Also, DBSAR, add one lantern for me too. Add me to the list.
My eyes are OK, but type C is much more convenient for me as well.
Interested!
Added! : )
type c for me too, you can always get an adapter.
ken
Updates, April,8,2018:
- Ok, I have the new lantern head for the V2 Q8-based prototype completed! I reflowed two 3000K XP-L emitters to the original modified Q8 copper star, (i only had two of these bare LEDs so i could not use all four pads on the star.)
Like the V1 design, i have used a full flat/matte white upper & lower plate light reflector, which works far better at increasing the output through 90 degrees of the lantern globe, while reducing the glare found in most other factory built LED lanterns on the market. Most lights you find on the market commercially make the mistake of using a chrome or shiny “reflector” causing an increase in glare, hard shadows, and does not really work to put it in simple terms. I have tested every possible surface type form gloss, eggshell, matte, chrome polished, and the full matte/flat white is the only one that emits the most lumens, reduces the most glare, and smooths out the hard-shadowing the best.
- So… right now I am stuck at the driver, and how to safely lower to the maximum amps to the LEDs…
Below, is the new V2 Prototype head ready for driver modification & first testing, (take notice of the center post bolt design, Much stronger & simpler than the V1, and there is a “sleeve tube” over the center bolt that hides the LED star wire leads, ( the tube is also painted flat-white to aid in reflecting light 90 degrees out the sides”
Below showing the solid aluminum head, with the modified Q8 copper star with the two 3000K XP-L 7A LEDs mounted in place using screws & thermal paste, and the surrounding surface painted flat white on the head, along with the base painted the same flat white. This feature seems to create an increase in gathered light, as the light itself is reflected back & forth against each other, increasing the efficiency of the 360 degree output, and smoothing out the hard shadows in the process while still eliminating the eye glare found in most lanterns:
The lower photo is of the driver, whee I am currently bogged-down on how to lower the total amps while preserving all the Q8 modes for the tests, ( to roughly the equivalent of two or three 7135 chips, but not sure of how to do that yet… ( Hinting for the masters of the Q8 driver design & build to chime in here, ( along with ToyKeeper as right now with all other team members MIA ToyKeeper is the only knowledgeable member we have helping with the BLF Lantern build for the driver & firmware part…
Looks nice! Thank you for the update.
You’re doing some very impressive design work here, DBSAR 
Looking at the star with 2 LEDs on it, I just had a random thought: would it be worth having two 3000K LEDs and two 5000K ones?
I have a picture in my head of two Convoy S2+ tailcaps set into the top of the lantern, allowing the user to physically switch the two colour temperatures in and out separately. You could have 3000K for relaxing in the evening, 5000K for a work light, or an extra efficient “4000K” mix getting a few more lumens per watt by spreading the power over 4 LEDs.
I have no idea whether any of this is possible or sensible, mind
DBSAR…what if you added a white wall around the LED meant to make it invisible from the sides?
Interested!
Add me to the list :).
If you use just two batteries in the battery tube, together with two XP-L’s it should be good to go for testing: too much output on max but he leds should be good.
Or else, you could use a simple resistor in the circuit to tame the driver, try 0.1 Ohm for a start. If you use an old-school 0.1 Ohm 1W capable through-hole resistor you could even use it floating, soldered in the middle of one of the led wires. That will eat up a few 10th’s of a V, drastically reducing the current. It is how many drivers of this type are tamed in stock flashlights.
Electronics experts please correct me if I’m wrong.