…I’m not worried about the inner and outer tube connecting, in general, a bit of Kapton tape would fix that if the anodising was weak, and maybe keep the inner tube aligned so it didn’t drift off towards the head and perhaps hit the wrong contact area…
Depending on the user to apply Kapton tape to fix a design defect might be effective, but isn’t good marketing.
If they sell 2,000 of these lights but get 200 complaints of faults that the user has to fix… ugh! The sale of the light will turn into a fiasco for Lumintop. Not everyone will have Kapton tape or want to apply it themselves to their light.
Better to just get it right the first time and design the light so getting a fault between the tubes is not possible, even if the anodizing is slightly thin or the light takes an impact.
Better to just get it right the first time and design the light so getting a fault between the tubes is not possible, even if the anodizing is slightly thin or the light takes an impact.
100% agree.
TBH I do not trust the sort of anodising typically found on these sorts of things as an insulator.
Coming from a mil-aerospace background I do know a little about anodising, and this sort of application would need an expensive, slow, thick, true hard anodise to pass my design review.
Or some other insulating medium in-between, i.e. a collar or spacer.
For example, see TI’s design notes for mounting the good old TO-3 hermetic transistor package:
_The typical surface treatment for aluminum heat sinks is black
anodized(4) per MIL-A-8625, Type II. This surface treatment
prevents corrosion and maximizes thermal performance. Do
not trust this surface treatment to provide electrical insulation.
For electrical insulation, always specify hard anodized, 0.001
inch thick, per MIL-A-8625, Type III. This file hard surface
treatment resists scratches and punctures, and is typically
rated for 200VDC electrical insulation for a 0.001 inch thick
treatment._
Of course this torch is unlikely to be built to mil-spec standards (would not be affordable if so), but I’m sure there are simple ways to make the inner tube a reliable robust signalling mechanism, with a little attention to detail.
What are the tolerances on the inner tube? If it touches the outer tube, the switch will not work I think? I was wondering how durable this solution is.
If both the inside of the outer tube and the outside of the inner tube are anodised it will be pretty hard to wear it out to the extend that it shorts, and if it does a bit of tape (i.e. Kapton tape is durable and pretty thin) around the inner tube should fix it.
TK reported that she was getting odd behavior from her prototype sample until she inserted a piece of paper between the inner and outer tube.
Sounds to me like just anodizing between the two layers might not be enough. Maybe it would be better to redesign the tube to be 1mm thicker and then add a thin plastic tube between the 2 metal tubes. That’s how Liteflux did it in their LF2XT years ago, and it worked perfectly.
I can be wrong on this, but hasn’t a prototype not a thin oring between the tubes on the head side?
Thougt I read about it on the Taschenlampen-Forum. Would be a cheap elegant solution to keep them in place.
What are the tolerances on the inner tube? If it touches the outer tube, the switch will not work I think? I was wondering how durable this solution is.
If both the inside of the outer tube and the outside of the inner tube are anodised it will be pretty hard to wear it out to the extend that it shorts, and if it does a bit of tape (i.e. Kapton tape is durable and pretty thin) around the inner tube should fix it.
TK reported that she was getting odd behavior from her prototype sample until she inserted a piece of paper between the inner and outer tube.
Sounds to me like just anodizing between the two layers might not be enough. Maybe it would be better to redesign the tube to be 1mm thicker and then add a thin plastic tube between the 2 metal tubes. That’s how Liteflux did it in their LF2XT years ago, and it worked perfectly.
I can be wrong on this, but hasn’t a prototype not a thin oring between the tubes on the head side?
Thougt I read about it on the Taschenlampen-Forum. Would be a cheap elegant solution to keep them in place.
Joe
That could work. But I’d think you’d need 2 o-rings. One at each end of the battery tube to insure that the inner tube floats away from the outer tube at all points. You would also need slots in preferably the inner tube to keep the o-rings in place. I’m not sure the inner tube is thick enough for o-ring slots.
What are the tolerances on the inner tube? If it touches the outer tube, the switch will not work I think? I was wondering how durable this solution is.
If both the inside of the outer tube and the outside of the inner tube are anodised it will be pretty hard to wear it out to the extend that it shorts, and if it does a bit of tape (i.e. Kapton tape is durable and pretty thin) around the inner tube should fix it.
TK reported that she was getting odd behavior from her prototype sample until she inserted a piece of paper between the inner and outer tube.
Sounds to me like just anodizing between the two layers might not be enough. Maybe it would be better to redesign the tube to be 1mm thicker and then add a thin plastic tube between the 2 metal tubes. That’s how Liteflux did it in their LF2XT years ago, and it worked perfectly.
I can be wrong on this, but hasn’t a prototype not a thin oring between the tubes on the head side?
Thougt I read about it on the Taschenlampen-Forum. Would be a cheap elegant solution to keep them in place.
Joe
That could work. But I’d think you’d need 2 o-rings. One at each end of the battery tube to insure that the inner tube floats away from the outer tube at all points. You would also need slots in preferably the inner tube to keep the o-rings in place. I’m not sure the inner tube is thick enough for o-ring slots.
Better would be a thin shrink-wrap like the ones used on 18650’s.
—
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
I can be wrong on this, but hasn’t a prototype not a thin oring between the tubes on the head side?
Yes, the tail has an O-ring between the two tubes. Perhaps the front end should too… if there’s a way to actually get a thin enough one in place.
Fritz took his prototype apart. It apparently also works with rubber boots.
I try to check TLF from time to time, but there is usually not much nude gnu news. Instead, I find other funny things to read:
Google Translate wrote:
Kafuzke wrote:
lichtistdunkel wrote:
demo videos to lightning storm and candle flicker mode
@ Cawi Please, please do not do that! I would prefer the identical UI as the Emisar. I am out with such a fair. Toykeeper likes to live out its play instinct in its copy. But nobody needs such a mump.
There are o-rings plenty thin enough. And for such a thin o-ring, not much of an indent in the tube should be needed to hold it in place. But, I still think it’s not the best solution. Then again, I’m not an engineer by trade, nor a machinist.
—
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
Edit: it has been pointed out to me that some may not get that “The English are best” is sharp irony, first published 1963. Please don’t take it literally.
With the inner tube design. It would be possible to bore some holes in the outer tube.
Reminds me a bit of the Thorens turntable I bought with money from my first real job. Replaced the original head with a light-weight version. And drilled a lot of vent-holes in it. All in the name of losing weight. The downside was that you needed to stay away when playing a record. Slip-stream, you know. The Thorens was not IP8, of course. But that did not matter, because it was not bought to be an EDC.
—
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
Send a prototype to me, I’ll fix it
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
I am interested in one please.
Bonum commune communitatis.
Yarp.
Also interested in one light
If they sell 2,000 of these lights but get 200 complaints of faults that the user has to fix… ugh! The sale of the light will turn into a fiasco for Lumintop. Not everyone will have Kapton tape or want to apply it themselves to their light.
Better to just get it right the first time and design the light so getting a fault between the tubes is not possible, even if the anodizing is slightly thin or the light takes an impact.
100% agree.
TBH I do not trust the sort of anodising typically found on these sorts of things as an insulator.
Coming from a mil-aerospace background I do know a little about anodising, and this sort of application would need an expensive, slow, thick, true hard anodise to pass my design review.
Or some other insulating medium in-between, i.e. a collar or spacer.
For example, see TI’s design notes for mounting the good old TO-3 hermetic transistor package:
http://www.ti.com/lit/an/sboa020/sboa020.pdf
Page 3:
_The typical surface treatment for aluminum heat sinks is black
anodized(4) per MIL-A-8625, Type II. This surface treatment
prevents corrosion and maximizes thermal performance. Do
not trust this surface treatment to provide electrical insulation.
For electrical insulation, always specify hard anodized, 0.001
inch thick, per MIL-A-8625, Type III. This file hard surface
treatment resists scratches and punctures, and is typically
rated for 200VDC electrical insulation for a 0.001 inch thick
treatment._
http://metalfinishingsltd.co.uk/treatments/hard-anodising/
Of course this torch is unlikely to be built to mil-spec standards (would not be affordable if so), but I’m sure there are simple ways to make the inner tube a reliable robust signalling mechanism, with a little attention to detail.
Updated list : … Post moved to Page 130 , http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1337438#comment-1337438
Short list, Last requests .
.
Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
+2, I put it in the number #1190 and #1191 on “ Interest list updated by pepinfaxera, View page 105 ,”:http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1320006#comment-1320006
For a total of 3 lights .
How many lanterns do you want in total? … x … units? .
Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
For a total of 2 lights .
How many lanterns do you want in total? … x … units? .
Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
Everything looks good but how long is the wait until we can purchase this light?
Nico -.-
This just in : Nude Gnu’s in the News!
You know the manufacturer has fallen behind when we, at the flashlight forum, are forced through sheer boredom to consider nude gnu’s. Just sayin…
I can be wrong on this, but hasn’t a prototype not a thin oring between the tubes on the head side?
Thougt I read about it on the Taschenlampen-Forum. Would be a cheap elegant solution to keep them in place.
Joe
Better would be a thin shrink-wrap like the ones used on 18650’s.
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
put me down for 1 please.
Yes, the tail has an O-ring between the two tubes. Perhaps the front end should too… if there’s a way to actually get a thin enough one in place.
Fritz took his prototype apart. It apparently also works with rubber boots.
I try to check TLF from time to time, but there is usually not much nude gnu news. Instead, I find other funny things to read:
Looks Great!
Please update quantity to now be a total of 2 for #965 StevenK (I believe that is the #)
Thanks,
Steven
There are o-rings plenty thin enough. And for such a thin o-ring, not much of an indent in the tube should be needed to hold it in place. But, I still think it’s not the best solution. Then again, I’m not an engineer by trade, nor a machinist.
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
No news is bad news, but in this case, I think people dropping off the radar for months is just
old gnus.
Card Carrying CRI baby
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
With the inner tube design. It would be possible to bore some holes in the outer tube.
I’m a Gnu:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqgPyqyh4×4
Or for Brexiteers:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vh-wEXvdW8
Edit: it has been pointed out to me that some may not get that “The English are best” is sharp irony, first published 1963. Please don’t take it literally.
No. The current design has waterproofing, which is probably not worth sacrificing for some tryptophobia-inducing aesthetic changes.
But why ?
Not a good look, costly, and compromises everything the tube is supposed to do. Bizzare idea.
Updated list : … Post moved to Page 111 . http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1329701#comment-1329701
-
-
Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
Reminds me a bit of the Thorens turntable I bought with money from my first real job. Replaced the original head with a light-weight version. And drilled a lot of vent-holes in it. All in the name of losing weight. The downside was that you needed to stay away when playing a record. Slip-stream, you know. The Thorens was not IP8, of course. But that did not matter, because it was not bought to be an EDC.
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
I agree it’s not that practical, but I think it just looks so good
Can Andúril do a battery check (and nothing else of the blinkies) in lock out mode?
Would that a good feature?
Joe
Interested
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