here are some runtime options with 3 different battery types
aaa 4 hours 20 lumens, Lumintop Tool w Nichia (pocket clip works on a hat)
16340 Olight S1 Mini High Cri 50 lumens 6 hours (pocket clip works on a hat)
AA 21 hours 30 lumens, Zebra H53w
You have several SOFIRN torches, and I have a few of its torches to satisfy my usual needs. I'm really surprised to see your test data, thank you for sharing.
Thanks for this. The zebralight really does seem great, but the price is an ouchie. Also not a fan of how many damn modes they have! BTW any reason you recommended the H53w instead of the H53c?
I dont own any zebras, but I hear many people cant tolerate the green tint of the C models, and that they prefer the Tint of the low cri of the W
I was just giving an example of a light with the ~30 lum mode and 8 hour runtime you wanted
afaik, the Zebra remembers 3 main modes, the others are selectable to suit your personal taste for extra modes, but you dont have to go through them all to make the light useful.
sounds good, maybe you can post a runtime chart showing flat regulated output @ ~200 lumens, so we can see the multi hour runtime
Interesting co-inky the subject of runtime graphs for single AA Zebralights has come up. Ran several runtime graphs on my SC53Fc last month. Was going to post these on CPF before things there went south. FYI, this floody version was a Zebralight custom build when I ordered it, but now it's on their regular list.
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Three different batteries were used:
(1) Energizer Lithium
(2) Panasonic Eneloop Pro
(3) Energizer Max alkaline
Make your own conclusions on how well regulated this model of Zebralight is.
This first graph is with an Energizer Ultimate Lithium. You get about an hour before brightness drops to 70% (or about 200 lumens). I can't explain the wonky rise in brightness during the first 35min. Anyone have thoughts on why there's a rise in brightness that didn't occur on the Eneloop or alkaline battery?
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The wonky rise in brightness above made me repeat the test again, to see if it was duplicable with another lithium. It was.
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Panasonic Eneloop Pro. Here again, we get close to 200+ lumens for about an hour, assuming the Zebralight spec of 285 lumens is valid.
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Finally, an Energizer Max alkaline. Even though ANSI FL-1 is only 30min, the bunny kept running for 5 days, a testament to how well the Zebralight can run at moonlight levels down to about .8V. Also, I suspect the alkaline's ability to recover at very low current draws, contributed to the 5-day runtime.
Yes, you definitely need to use an Eneloop to make the Zebralight give a regulated output. I think those SC53Fd graphs match what the SC52’s deliver, though I think the cool-white and neutral white “w” versions are more efficient than the Fd.
From my testing, the SC5w is better regulated than the SC52/SC52w, and also about 10-15% more efficient. I’m not sure if efficiency was improved with the latest MkII models of the SC5.
I think if output and runtime are your main concerns for a 1xAA light, then I don’t think you can beat the Zebralight SC5.
Now I know ANSI FL1 Standard is pointless, because it can be so easily manipulated.
I will use my way of calculating runtimes - sampling every minute and waiting for the output to drop below 50% of the so-far averaged output.
This way Sofirn SF14 does 131 lumens for 3 minutes at High, and 27 lumens for 8h36min at Medium.
There actually are and it allows me to categorize manufacturers into two groups (based on the NiMH flashlights I tested so far and runtime graphs posted in this thread)
I like to further categorize cheating into two categories:
1. Those that simply sag because of a drop in voltage under load. That is, they don’t have regulated drivers.
2. Those that intentionally abuse the FL-1 standard so they can advertise ridiculous output and runtime stats. Companies like maglite do that; they step-down not just because of an unregulated driver, but down to just over 10% initial output so it runs for a really long time.
I don’t really have an issue with #1. Any lithium-ion light that uses a FET driver for max output, does it. #2 annoys me.
yes, and no, Full stabilization does not work on all battery types, neither does STEP mode http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?366051
“FULL regulation is as you’d expect – perfectly flat regulation for as long as the battery can handle it, then an immediate drop to off (although in this case to an ultra-low output state, rather than off)”
“Current stabilization types are entirely changeable through the user menu: full stabilization (FULL), simple semi-stabilization (SEMI), stepped stabilization (STEP)”
It is always a good idea to check Runtime Charts, monitor Battery voltage, and have a spare battery.
The orange line is showing FULL Stabilization on primary cells for about 33 minutes. Then it is tailing off the remaining power from the cells. There is no need to protect primary cells. Every step give you little more light. I like it better then sudden darkness or a moonlight.
I think you’re right. It’s still quite a bit of energy left in the cells after regulation cuts out, but I like that it does that. I have an Armytek light, and I find the “extreme regulation” a bit annoying: it goes from full output to the lowest firefly mode, all of a sudden. I much prefer some step-downs in between, like that orange line is giving.
Is it full regulation on those primary cells? Well, yes, you get it for a half-hour. The cells must not be able to deliver the power necessary after that, which is fine. IMO, that’s still full regulation, since the light is doing the best it can with the power the cells can provide.
Thank you.
On unprotected 1865o I can restart the light for a few more minutes run. Or go to a lower level for longer. Last night went from 100% till shut down, then restarted it at 25% and got another 20ish minutes.