I don’t think the threat of no electricity will work. You have so many beautiful flashlights lying around, they can just grab some of those and they produce more light than any ceiling fixtures. They can also play on their tablet and cell phones.
Painting the outside black would stop the tube from glowing but would not help the inside readings. The black would simply absorb the light, not reflect it.
Painting it silver would make more sense but in my testing it didn’t do much either even on the inside.
I wasn’t actually suggesting painting the tubes inside or out, just remembered it was considered in the past and thought of it. It was from many years ago, probably around 2012-2013. I figured all previous methods had already been considered for these.
I only need this to see what improvements my mods make, and maybe get a ball park number of output for new lights.
Ok, it was an all day marathon run yesterday with all hands on deck but we managed to get all of the 3” spheres finished!
I started work on the 4” spheres but they are proving to be MUCH harder. I spent a few hours messing with them but just can’t see to get them to come out correctly.
I still have a few ideas to try but if they don’t pan out I am left with a bit of a choice.
Option 1: Calibrate them for the most consistent readings and they will need to use a multiplier like most spheres in order to figure out the lumen values.
Option 2: Get them to read the correct lumens on the meter but give up some consistency (basically pointing the light at an angle can effect the readings more then I would like)
If its not possible to get them right om the meter
Option 1: Calibrate them for the most consistent readings and they will need to use a multiplier like most spheres in order to figure out the lumen values.
Will you provide a multiplier so its calibrated to your normal readings? If you do that its ok to me./Micael
Yes, naturally I would calibrate them to a known multiplier. Most likely something around ~1.5x.
The issue is that if I install all 3 diffusing sheets like the 3” spheres to get the readings consistent, then the meter readings are around 33% low. If I remove diffusing sheets to get the numbers up then it becomes less consistent.
I am experimenting now with ways to reduce losses but don’t have very high hopes.
Yep, tried that as well. The clear sheets are what I am using now, they still drop the readings too low unless I go to sheets that do very little diffusing.
Right now I am testing a theory that could increase the readings with no downsides, I should know in a little while if it worked.
A 4” tube has 33% more circumference than a 3” tube (= 3.14 x D), therefore absorbs 33% more light. This means that your lux meter will show a 33% lower value.
So this makes sense… Or am I saying something obvious?
The primary purpose of the bends in a lumen tube is to diffuse the light. However, you have dedicated diffusers in your tube, so the bends might be redundant? You could perhaps reduce total length of your 4” tube to increase output of your lux meter to equal lumens.
Well, that would actually work, except… this contraption doesn’t use any straight runs of PVC pipe, only fittings. There isn’t really a good place to cut out anything. However, another option might be to replace one of the 90 degree elbows used in this design with a 45 degree elbow.
Yep, you are spot on. The issue with the 3” spheres is getting the readings low enough so I just assumed that it should line up ok (I have to use 4 diffusing sheets to get the readings to the right level on the 3” + some calibrating).
Technically the readings are more like 50-60% lower on the 4” with an equal setup. But the extra surface area of the diffusing sheets could explain that. I just didn’t expect such a large change.