What did you mod today?

I put together a Convoy M2 with a XM-L2 7A3 CRI90 emitter.
I first installed a Convoy driver with Biscotti, but I found the output a bit on the low side. So I put in a BLF A6 driver with out any spring bypass I get 4.98A on turbo and 2.05A after step down.

^ that is still one of my favourite emitters and I keep a small stash of them for future use. They are not efficient to todays standards, if pushed hard they make close to 1000 lumen OTF (compared to 1500 lumen at the same current from a cool XP-L), but you get a fantastic illumination. I have one in a Kaidomain K2 host with the same driver and it is my go-to flashlight for camping.

I have them in my 2 SR-mini and they still are the best CREE for ambient lighting

I have one in a Skilhunt H02 with a Lexel build TA driver with NarsilM, one in a Eagle Eye X7 I bought from a friendly modder here on BLF :wink: , a triple UniqueFire UF-1408 with a MTN-22DDm driver, and when led4power puts the new Q8 MCPCB up for sale I will put some in a Q8.

Oh and they are a really good option in Olight S baton series behind their unique TIR (which doesn’t like 3535 LED at all…)
I put some in my S2, S2R, S1R, S1A…

Got a red sofirn SP10B today for my daughter, real nice light for the 10 dollars with a great moonlight mode. Put a 4000k 219c in it and also in my D25c ti.

Put some LH351D’s in some lights.
The first one was my Emisar D1… and the LED didn’t like the Turbo mode AT ALL… it turned blue :frowning:
Maybe my reflowing wasn’t really well done…

Fortunately, the other three are in more reasonable configurations :

From left to right : S2+ Biscotti 8*7135, Utorch UT01, Lumintop Tool AA Biscotti 5*7135
The far right is my T10 with 219B

I really like the tint and CRI of these little gems… I have to buy more when they’re available

:heart_eyes:

@X3, yep that is was probably happened. Bad reflow job. The LH351D is a bit tougher of an LED compared to the XPL HI, so should not have turned blue.

I have the same experience with the single LH351D no matter how careful I reflow they turn blue. The four I reflowed and put in my D4 didn’t change color.

Do you use Lexel’s suggest about 1°/sec temperature raise speed?

I use a hot air reflow gun slowly raising the temperature, if it 1°/sec I don’t know :slight_smile:

Maybe I am not careful enough, but I don’t have the same issue with other emitters.

Thats simple, if it takes near 200 sec it is ok, if less than two minutes this is too fast.
Not only about samsung, we heard many issues with xhp 50.2 for same reason.

Is it proven that the XHP50.2 issues are caused by not following the correct reflow timings? I did not know that. I even have not seen any evidence of not following the correct reflow timing having an effect on any led performance. I’m not saying that there is no effect, but at least I have never seen it demonstrated.

I have a XHP50.2 dying in a flashlight with a Kaidomain 3A boost driver, and I have a XHP50.2 living a happy life at 5+ amps in a driver-less 2x18650 flashlight. Both leds were reflowed by me at the correct temperature but nowhere near the correct timing. Instead of a reflow effect, my feeling is that that KD driver causes some sort of peaks that especially the XHP50.2 is sensitive to, while in direct drive there is no such sudden load. But it is just a feeling based on just two leds, I have no hard evidence.

I cant make any long-time conclutions, I just dont have enought equipment for tests. I would prefer to ask maukka and Lexel.

Received the uni-t ut210e clampmeter couple days ago.
Measured the tailcap current again today. Used a 22 gauge silicon wire, it was probably a little bit too long though.

Measured 7 amps, that makes more sense. Still a little bit on the lower side but for that I blame the cell I used and the longer wire.

I use 12Ga Turnigy wire for my loop with the Uni-T clamp meter. I think it’s 6” long, soldered gold plated banana clips on each end.

I use this, before use everytime I sand the contact surfaces:

Glutton for punishment! :stuck_out_tongue:

A little late to the party but I had a threesome and put my D’s all over the place:




Samsung LH351D’s of course, 4000K 90CRI.

Jaxman E2L (left)
FET+N+1 Bistro HD
~3300lm at startup

Thorfire TK15 (right)
SMO reflector gives the 351D a little bit of a hotspot and no more egg yolk from XPL2. Still some slight rings like any SMO but the tint is even.
Side note: Thorfire must be using some of the highest melting point solder on the planet…

Ultratac K18 Mini (top)
Pulled the XPG2 out of this 10180 light
Makes ~12lm on low and ~125lm on high
It’s no CRX light but I really like this light now. It has TWO ways I can lock it out, mechanical and eswitch and a really nice floody beam. I’m going to remove the Manker LAD from my keychain now and see how this holds up. I’ll trade the lower output for not having my pants randomly lighting up.