Olight S1 Mini High CRI and Utorch S1 Mini NW, now w N219b and E21A

Experimenting with a flat glass lens on the Utorch instead of the aspheric. The beam is cleaner with the glass lens, IF I do not install the shiny bezel. To my suprise, the bezel creates a small center hotspot, that I do not want. I may experiment with blacking out the bezel.

Utorch S1 Mini scores highest number of my desired features

[quote=jon_slider]
Utorch S1 Mini scores highest number of my desired features

Nicely made ! :+1:

A little mistake however: the Olight SMINI TI is NW…

thank you, very helpful, edited in the NW tag on the Ti S Mini, you are absolutely correct it was missing.

x2

thank you for the kind support
here btw is the complete feature set, including undesireable features like hold for off, just to inform, also added LED types. FWIW, the Klarus did not get marked as having sublumen, but they do have 1 lumen lows, almost sublumen

I believe on the Utorch that the black centering disk as well as the lens itself, once the bezel is screwed back on, pushes the MCPCB down so the thermal paste can do it’s work. If left without any downward pressure you might run the risk of burning it up if the MCPCB separates from the shelf and has no contact to it. Which it might do if bouncing around in a pocket or what not. I could be wrong but check it out. Don’t want anything giving you the smoke of death or anything. :slight_smile:

Awesome comparisons by the way.

I also picked up the S1A Cu after the S1 mini Cu I got from you and the S1 mini Ti I snatched up. Really liking the extra length of the AA light for my somewhat large and clumsy hands.

Take care my friend.

Todd
Thank you for the safety warning, and for introducing me to the Utorch, it’s been a real eye-opener. I will not run the Utorch S1 Mini NW, without the lens on it again :-).

The Utorch just landed in Texas_Ace’s mailbox today. Its getting an n219b 9080. I hope it works!:slight_smile:

Congrats on your Cu S1a, instant classic!

I had a titanium S Mini in my Shopping cart at illumn.com today but decided not to pull the trigger because S Mini have no low battery indicator.

So then i put an Olight S1 Mini in my cart instead.
My buy it now finger was twitching madly but I managed to quell it before it landed on the button. I did not want the Cool White model.

Code blacknovember worked for both lights. 30% off always tempts me.

I tend to buy more lights when I’m waiting for lights to get to me in the mail.
My wallet thinks I need Real Therapy, not Real TiTherapy

Dont tell my wallet about the two other Utorch i ordered on flash sale. Theyre in the mail to Bali for Nichia swaps.

Im building a menage a trois Nichia Utorch
2000k, 3000k, 4000k

Wish the olights would play w Nichia, the olight UI is so much better.

Awesome, I bet that 219 will look phenomenal in that Utorch.

I understand about the wallet. I really need to slow down on my purchases. I only have 3 more coming in the mail and haven’t ordered anything lately. Although, I was looking at that Eagletac D25A with the 219 in it. Then again I really want a Klarus Mi7 Ti too. I don’t know.

Think I will behave myself for awhile.

Looking forward to some beam shots when you get those lights back. I hear TA is one of the best so i’m sure you won’t be disappointed.

In Olight S1 Mini High CRI and Utorch S1 Mini NW, now w N219b and E21A - #18 by jon_slider
the lines Tir, aspheric, reflector are double.

thank you joechina, I think its fixed now, much appreciate your help

fwiw, my Olight S1 Mini that went to Texas is on its way home to me, with an N219b 9080… pics of the new beam tint to follow

and btw, for anyone interested in the High CRI N219b 9080, Clemence is having one last sale before they become part of flash History… you can buy them here:

Just got my Utorch S1 Mini back from Texas_Ace who did a mod to sw45 9080… Woohoo!

before
xpl NW my meter 0.2 - 4- 66 - 445/234@1 min

after
sw 45 9080 my meter 0.1 - 2.5 - 37 - 220/116@1 min

Congrats on the light.

Do you really need a minus green filter with that SW40?

I like it better with the filter, makes it less yellow.
The SW40 had a yellow cast, otoh the SW45 has a purple cast (and is WAY more pink too)
In the evening I find the SW45 cooler than necessary, otoh, during the day the SW45 is not too warm, for me.

I plan to get another Utorch S1 Mini modded to SW40 9080… that will take a while, the light is headed for Bali :slight_smile:

Maybe I should order myself some minus green filter to play with. Bali, I can guess to wich member than :+1:

Lee filters are fun to experiment with… here are my notes where to buy, etc


http://shop.leefiltersusa.com/Swatch-Book-Designers-Edition-SWB.htm

For heat concerns, Lee makes a Zircon line that is heat resistant:

The 802 Zircon Minus Green reduces lumens by 25, that would be closest to the 1/2 minus Green, that reduces by 28

Lee 248 Half minus green: 71.5%
Zircon 802: 75%

Zircon 803: 79.9%
Lee 249 -Quarter minus green : 81.5%
Zircon 804: 83.6%

Zircon 805: 86.6%
Lee 279 -Eighth minus green : 87.2%

Discussed here

the values I find useful, for each CCT, and what they cost in brightness

Examples of with and without Lee on a pair of sm303 9050

Thnx! Will look into it.

My Utorch S1 Mini w N219b has a problem I have not figured out yet, but it may be related to that thermal paste comment.

Several times today, the light has turned itself off after a few seconds of use. When I try to click on, I get either zero light, or a very dim flickering moonlight that will not advance modes if I click.

I fixed it once by slapping it half a dozen times. Not reliable.
I “fixed” it twice by moving the LED board sideways gently from a couple different directions, in an attempt to smear the thermal paste.

It is possible there is poor contact, and the thermal regulation mode is taking over. Not sure yet.

this is the first installment in Mystery of the Self Dimming Utorch.

stay tuned for the next episonde

ok, now its “fixed” again… modes change, turns on and off, strobe works at the end, do not watch if you get seizures

I took of the lens and slid the led board side to side a little, and now it works again. I wonder if it would like more thermal paste? It is assembled correctly, to maintain pressure on the black centering ring, with the aspheric lens on top of the centering ring, and the O ring between the lens and the bezel.

I dont see any loose solder joints or loose wire. Battery is at 4.0v and the built in Utorch battery check flashes 3 times.
The mystery answer will be published shortly. Speculation notwithstanding.

Ok, the light worked for the rest of the evening on moon, low and Medium. I did not try turbo.
This morning I did a test of Turbo and after 30 seconds the light stepped down to medium. Battery was a 3.9v and the Utorch battery test gave 2 flashes.

I tried Turbo again, but after 3 seconds the light turned off and would not turn back on. I discovered the battery was at 0 volts, the protection circuit had tripped. I installed a fresh battery, the light works fine.

Charged the battery that was at 0 volts for 1 minute, then took it off charger and measured voltage at 3.9v again. The light works again with that battery.

My present theory is that once the light gets to 3.8v, which corresponds with 1 flash of the battery check mode on the light, it wont maintain Turbo, and repeating attempts to run turbo, can trigger the battery protection circuit.

Conclusion is, dont fire turbo again if the light steps down to low from Turbo after a few seconds, and the battery test flashes 2 times (3.9v) or less.

Next time I cause the light to shut down completely, assume protection is triggered, install a fresh battery.

a pic showing the Utorch with fresh battery working normally, while the other battery is being charged (in a PT16 that has built in USB charging).

note to self, avoid Turbo and Strobe. Stick to Moon, Low, and Medium.
Use the built in battery check, and if it drops to 2 flashes, avoid Turbo and strobe completely.

unable to leave a good thing alone,
I did another test with the fresh charged battery at 4.1v and the Utorch battery level flashing 4 times. Ran Turbo for 75 seconds, on my light meter, and watched the initial brightness drop to 50% (normal stepdown after 1 minute). Turned off the light, the Utorch battery check showed 3 flashes, and the battery tested at 3.98v on my meter. Moon, Low, Medium, all working normally.

moral of the story, Turbo is Not my batteries friend. :slight_smile:

Now back to our regularly scheduled Flashing… Happy SunDay!

New observation
After using Turbo the light dimmed itself to Low.

being a slow learner, I fired Turbo again, which caused the light to turn completely off.
I said the usual prayers, wiggled the LED board, and tried again. Still Zero Light.

Removed battery, tested Voltage, result 0 Volts…

guess why?
ok, Ill tell you why:

The LVP had been triggered by the repeated attempts to use Turbo when the battery was at 3.8v

Is it possible that the N219b is triggering LVP and the stock LED does not?

Solution, either dont use Turbo w the N219b, or switch to unprotected batteries… hmmm