I’d definitely be in for an led and board (if sold together) would be even better if we could somehow order a ‘kit’ with the resistor, led and board…… wishful thinking maybe 
Either way 1 board please.
A kit is what I have had in mind from the start. 
Nice one TA :+1: You da man! :sunglasses:
Oh and forgot to thank VOB for another great video! Cheers man!
If there’s ever a kit available I’m totally in for a set
With a bit careful centering and if you are willing to drill new holes it is possible to get also a 25mm LED board fitting in the GT like I did with a CFT-90
I also have made a new driver with lastest development in way more efficient P-Channel mosfets utilized
note for GT the center viases on spring pad taped with Kapton
Today I sliced sanded and polished 3 MCPCBs for GT and this emptied my stock on boards and LEDs for now
+1
I am in
The kit should include the MCPCB with the XHP70.2, driver and the centering plate.
PS. Another option, for those who have few skills, the complete light engine assembled.
there is no new centering plate needed
another great video!
thank you for making them 
Unlike the buck driver that can maintain constant output until the voltage drops out of regulation, the FET version will taper off the lumens as the voltage drops. Same as all direct drive lights.
I’m thinking the GT host is just a bigger version of the L6 and I have a similar setup in an L6 (a lot of us do). The stock GT with 35w output will get hot, but can handle the heat without stepping down. The FET setup is closer to 120w. I’m sure it can handle the heat for several minutes. Maybe 5? Probably not more than 10 min. I’m just guessing here. It’s a crap ton of heat, that’s for sure.
Maybe VOB can give us a better idea of how long it can maintain turbo before needing to step down.
I just finished modding my GT using the TA GT driver and an XHP-70.2 P2 Led
I LOVE THIS (expeletive) LIGHT!!!
Here are some pictures I took comparing it to my other throwy flooder, the Acebeam K60 which is using a XHP-70.2 P2 Led, the GT totally Pwns it.
Left Acebeam K60 on turbo, right GT XHP-70.2 on turbo
I did not want to unsolder the brass button of the original driver so I used a belt sander to make a copper button out of a sinkpad MCPCB it is 11 mm in diameter and 1.54mm in width
I used 18ga wire, BTW here is the correct wiring.
The lights works fine but I have this problem, when I turn off the light 2 dies stay on and the switch leds don’t light up. they do work since I see them blinking when turning on or off the light, I think the modified SD75 MCPCB might be bleeding some current to those dies instead of the switch, hopefully TA will offer the proper MCPCB’s
Life is good!!! :sunglasses:
AlexGT
Alex, what driver is that exactly? Did you switch to a FET as opposed to resistor modding the stock driver?
Is TA selling FET drivers for the GT or is it from Lexel?
Its one of these TA has (Or had) 5 left…
Thnx for the nice vid! And verry nice results :+1:
If there is demand I let produce more of those Buck boards
Price will go down a little to 22$ per driver
AWESOME video as always VOB!
My question is…. for someone not adept to do a mod like this, can you mod my light for me?
Also, any idea how this mod compares to Vinhs CFT90 as far as performance goes?
Thanks much!
Loved the video vb. Nice work on the mods. :+1:
Yes, I was wondering what the lumen sag over time was (ie 9000 lumens @ turn on, 8500 lumens at 1 minute, 8000 lumens at 5 minutes, 7000 lumens at 10 minutes etc.) Like a nice little graph showing how its taper is.
120 watts is a lot of heat, usually you need a fan to dissipate it. I too imagine it’s only 5 or so minutes before it needs to step down.
Well, there’s lumen sag due to emitter temperature, but on turbo I think it gets up to temperature pretty quick then mainly stabilizes in 20 to 30 seconds. It’s the drop in battery voltage that will cause the lumens to continue tapering off. Is that what you meant?
I don’t have a power supply to test with, but I’m sure there are plenty of guys here who do and can tell you the lumen drop off rate purely from temperature.
The lumen drop off rate from batteries probably varies a lot based of which batteries you use and if you have one or two carriers.
So basically, I’m zero help! Lol
Yes due to battery voltage sag.
Real dumb question as I am a noob among you modding gods: Why was the stock GT not designed to emit 8,000 lumens? Cost and material constrains? Because Lumintop didn’t want to? Other reason?