edit to add Holy crap I actually got an image to upload thanks racoon city and JohnnyMac. Also, this is the first time in a long time I carried this Buck knife. It really doesn’t hold an edge very well compared to other knives I have
Well, it will be magenta instead of red but I don’t think I can get orange anyways
The difficult part will be the coat of arms, I just ordered a 10x10cm plate of Grade 2 Ti to experiment a bit.
Maybe I’ll make a nameplate, too, etching copper has proven to be a tad too difficult and nasty…
I have tried to find details on TwoSun knives for years without any success, it doesn’t seem to be a “real” company, more of a name under which one or several manufacturers brand some of their products.
As always, I could be wrong though and someone better than me has had more success.
Blue Chips, is that Spyderco a frame lock or liner lock? I was looking really hard at the Military/Para Military for the S90V blade steel, didn’t see one with a Ti scale as a frame-lock or I may have taken the plunge…
isti, that RFT has a nicely shaped blade… seems someone missed something on that frame lock though, usually the lock side is thinned down to keep it from being too stout, they didn’t take the thinned section all the way out so it appears it might be pretty stiff to flex, is that the case?
Edit: What I like about the blade shape is that the Tanto style knives were originally made from a broken Samuai sword, using the remaining tip and retrofitting it to a new handle. This blade looks quite similar to my Katana, except for the grind of course. My Katana is convex ground. 28” of razor blade.
The trick is that the real lock-bar relief is on the inside so it’s felxible as it should be.
Are those high-end katanas perfect razor sharp out of the box or do they need any touching up?
It took me almost 2 hours (and 3 beers ) from a #120 diamond to a #3000 ruby. It’s still not a perfect mirror finish but I’m getting closer: