okay, another question does the light suddenly die without warning when the battery gets low? both my s1 baton and smini does that i kinda hate that puff and it goes dead…
Okay, so I tried it twice.
First time,with an Olight 16340 protected. The protection kicked in after an hour on high and the light shut off obviously.
The second time I used a CR123A primary cell, on high mode. After about 2 hours, the light went down on low mode. I then shut it OFF but couldn’t light it ON again.
I’ll try with an unprotected 16340 but I think it will discharge it quite low
Some time ago, my M1T Raider started having issues with the switch/tailcap. Pressing it momentarily or full click was a pain, as the rubber cap got stuck or was too slow to make another quick press/click.
So I e-mailed Olight about this situation and informed them about it. I got fast replies, and they were very kind to send me another tailcap, that arrived today.
I paid for the DHL transportation more than I would pay for a new light, but…that’s fine I now have a working light again
BUT…as I had the “old” damaged tailcap, I decided that if it was damaged I would salvage it to show how the tailcap is composed, all in the name of “flashlight science” So, here are some photos of its composition:
It can be decomposed in 3 main parts. I put the lower part (RIGHT) out with the help of a knife; made some pressure and it eventually got released (it is press fit and has some flaps that will fit into a groove in the metal structure).
Then I picked a flame lighter and applied some heat on the top part of the tailcap. I didn’t know if it was glued or not but I took my chance (then I realized there is some glue on it).
After that, I picked two pliers and rotated the both parts (MIDDLE and LEFT) in opposite directions. It started to unscrew. I used a tissue not to damage the threads too much with the pressure.
After that, I started taking the pieces that you find in the photo of the right. TOP: Metal structure + white o-ring + rubber/plastic tailcap with a pin inside + spring + spacer MIDDLE: Metal structure + 2 o-rings (1 interior, 1 outside) + thin brass spacer + switch on PCB and spring LOWER: Metal brass cap + plastic holder
Later I found out that what was causing the issue in the pressing was the lack of lubricant in the white o-ring inside the tailcap. So I applied some, and now the “old” switch is working fine now I’ll keep it just in case, or maybe I will use it in another flashlight Lets see!
All and all, I have to thank Olight for the fast reply and customer support service!