TA, I was also meaning to ask you if your lumen tube was calibrated to match up to some of the other members on the forums homemade lumen tube/integrating spheres such as DB Custom, Tom E and Vestureofblood.
I was thinking they were all calibrated about the same, but DB was insulted that I thought his and others measurements might be 20% to 30% high. He said they based their calibration numbers on many high end lights rated ansi-fl1 numbers to arrive at a good average they believed was accurate.
I figured I’d ask you in case your lumen tube was not matched up to theirs.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
TA, I was also meaning to ask you if your lumen tube was calibrated to match up to some of the other members on the forums homemade lumen tube/integrating spheres such as DB Custom, Tom E and Vestureofblood.
I was thinking they were all calibrated about the same, but DB was insulted that I thought his and others measurements might be 20% to 30% high. He said they based their calibration numbers on many high end lights rated ansi-fl1 numbers to arrive at a good average they believed was accurate.
I figured I’d ask you in case your lumen tube was not matched up to theirs.
Initially I did not calibrate my tube to match theirs and based it purely on the raw lumen numbers from naked LED’s. While it was not super consistent due to the china suppliers I was using at the time I was getting a calibration about 20-25% lower then I ended up with.
When I started comparing my numbers with all the others I could find on BLF I noticed mine were always very low, I just figured that the china suppliers had lied and all my samples were lower bins then I assumed and adjusted my numbers by about 21% it looks like on the notes.
Figuring that around 3 bins was a reasonable guess (seeing as I was buying “V6 XP-L HI LED’s” that did not exist) that put me reasonably close to the other readings I was seeing on BLF (although still generally on the low side). I was sick of constantly second guessing myself at this point and decided to just pick and number and stick to it.
Like Djozz said in another thread “The man that only has one watch always knows what time it is”. Well I decided to only have one watch moving forward and since it was still on the low side compared to everyone else, I just assumed it was reasonably accurate.
Turns out it was not even close. I am still shocked at just how far off it was. I never would of guessed that since it was not far off from all the other readings I saw on BLF.
Ok, I just did some more testing, I really like this setup for the 3” spheres, seems to be reading pretty consistent across all the ones I have tested.
I just started messing with a 4” though and it is a bit more tricky. There is no easy way to mount the diffuser like the 3” so the best option I am coming up with is to run a strip of tape around the edge of the meter and then tape the discs to it. It seems to hold them in place good enough.
Although them being closer to the meter causes the readings to be a little different. Still close but I will need a wider sample base to see which orientation will work best. Going to go grab the rest of the ones I have now.
It’s possible the other guys could be too high by a larger number than I thought. I suggested they might be 20% to 30% high, but they may actually be closer to 35% or so too high.
Have you considered loaning out those “Maukka measured” lights to some of those established guys with older devices? Maybe they would like to use it to see if their older calibrations are off.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
It’s possible the other guys could be too high by a larger number than I thought. I suggested they might be 20% to 30% high, but they may actually be closer to 35% or so too high.
Have you considered loaning out those “Maukka measured” lights to some of those established guys with older devices? Maybe they would like to use it to see if their older calibrations are off.
Whoa….. very interesting indeed!! That ‘might’ explain some of those super high lumen numbers. It would be interesting to know for sure.
So it would be great idea if any would do it. But it might burst some bubbles in the process if they did……
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
It’s possible the other guys could be too high by a larger number than I thought. I suggested they might be 20% to 30% high, but they may actually be closer to 35% or so too high.
Have you considered loaning out those “Maukka measured” lights to some of those established guys with older devices? Maybe they would like to use it to see if their older calibrations are off.
If mine read low compared to some of them and it was over 30% high, then it is quite possible most of the spheres around here are 25-35% high or more. I am not going to point fingers though other then to point out that my own sphere was this far off before I had a way to calibrate it better.
I am considering making my own calibrated lights based on Maukka’s but I think I will keep the originals for myself so that I always have a consistent standard to refer back to. Never know what could happen if the post office gets a hold of it a few times.
If any of the older guys on here wants a loaner comparison light to calibrate their sphere I have a few lights of mine here I could measure and loan out though. I would just have to see what I have on hand that is regulated.
It’s possible the other guys could be too high by a larger number than I thought. I suggested they might be 20% to 30% high, but they may actually be closer to 35% or so too high.
Have you considered loaning out those “Maukka measured” lights to some of those established guys with older devices? Maybe they would like to use it to see if their older calibrations are off.
Whoa….. very interesting indeed!! That ‘might’ explain some of those super high lumen numbers. It would be interesting to know for sure.
So it would be great idea if any would do it. But it might burst some bubbles in the process if they did……
lol, yeah, my sphere is now the heartbreaker dyno (those in the car world know what I am talking about). I took a few random readings of lights I had laying around and it is amazing how much it psychologically hurts to see the numbers 30% lower even though I know logically they are the same brightness.
Ok, I tested a few more 3” and I am very happy with these, they are all coming out well within spec except for that outlier.
The 4” are also testing good as well, the first one I grabbed seems to of been further off then the others. The 4” is averaging out slightly higher readings but only about 1% or so.
Overall I really like this fix and by adjusting the direction that the discs are facing you can fine tune the readings if you get a calibrated light at some point.
I am going to go get the diffusing sheet this after noon and then see when I can get access to the laser cutter.
It’s possible the other guys could be too high by a larger number than I thought. I suggested they might be 20% to 30% high, but they may actually be closer to 35% or so too high.
Have you considered loaning out those “Maukka measured” lights to some of those established guys with older devices? Maybe they would like to use it to see if their older calibrations are off.
Whoa….. very interesting indeed!! That ‘might’ explain some of those super high lumen numbers. It would be interesting to know for sure.
So it would be great idea if any would do it. But it might burst some bubbles in the process if they did……
lol, yeah, my sphere is not the heartbreaker dyno (those in the car world know what I am talking about). I took a few random readings of lights I had laying around and it is amazing how much is psychologically hurts to see the numbers 30% lower even though I know logically they are the same brightness.
Yep TA…… it kinda leaves an empty sick feeling in the pit of ones stomach.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
I have done several readings on my lights and i feel that the number are coming in low. But its interesting to see how mych light is coming uot off my lights.
1000 lumen now is realy bright:).
If anyone want my numbers i can wright it upp but i dont know if it helps. TA_s fix will make them wrong…or nott?
I have done several readings on my lights and I feel that the numbers are coming in low. But it’s interesting to see how much light is coming out off my lights.
1000 lumen now is really bright:).
If anyone want my numbers I can write it up, but I don’t know if it helps. TA’s fix will make them wrong…or not?
/Micael
Right now the TA lumen tube is reading too high, so we take the numbers from the meter (usually after 30 seconds when using higher levels) and multiply by .7 to get true lumens.
TA is making a little disc that we add to our tubes to make them read about 30% lower. This means we don’t have to do any math. The reading on the meter will be the correct lumen output.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I have done several readings on my lights and I feel that the numbers are coming in low. But it’s interesting to see how much light is coming out off my lights.
1000 lumen now is really bright:).
If anyone want my numbers I can write it up, but I don’t know if it helps. TA’s fix will make them wrong…or not?
/Micael
Right now the TA lumen tube is reading too high, so we take the numbers from the meter (usually after 30 seconds when using higher levels) and multiply by .7 to get true lumens.
TA is making a little disc that we add to our tubes to make them read about 30% lower. This means we don’t have to do any math. The reading on the meter will be the correct lumen output.
Correct, for the 3” tubes it will just be a matter of popping them into the meter hole in the correct orientation.
For the 4” tubes they will need to tape the discs to the meter in order to make them stay put. Not hard, just needs a strip of normal official tape to goa round the outside edge of the meter / discs.
All readings are at 30 sec and batterys is 30q att 4,18-4,19v rested about 1 hour after charging.
26650 Battery Liitokala blue. Correction factor 0.68 The factor is after tested light from Maukka.
It was one number that fell outside of the ,68 factor but for consistent reading all are ,68.
Olight sr mini intimidator
Low 417 Lumen
Turbo 2500 Lumen
Klarus Xt11Gt first gen
Medium 72 Lumen
High 318 Lumen
Turbo 1448 Lumen
Klarus Xt11Gt second gen.
Medium 95 Lumen
High 402 Lumen
Turbo 1747 Lumen
Olight R50 seeker
Low 27 Lumen
Medium 395 Lumen
High 1193 Lumen
Turbo 2352
Imalent Dn70 1:a
Low 42 Lumen
Medium 329 Lumen
High 2257 Lumen
Turbo 2964
Imalent 2:a
Low 47 Lumen
Medium 347
High 2128
Turbo 3114
Imalent Dn35
Low 20 Lumen
Medium 435 Lumen
High 1162 Lumen
Turbo 1394 Lumen
Nightcore Tm03 supplied battery
Low 41 Lumen
Medium 673 Lumen
High 1638 Lumen
Turbo 3216 Lumen.
All readings are at 30 sec and batterys is 30q att 4,18-4,19v rested about 1 hour after charging.
26650 Battery Liitokala blue. Correction factor 0.68 The factor is after tested light from Maukka.
It was one number that fell outside of the ,68 factor but for consistent reading all are ,68.
Very cool.
I was a bit disappointed in the Convoy L6. I thought they were closer to 3400-3500 like the S70s. My L6 is way too modded to get factory readings from. I think the L6 amp draw was 4.5A and the S70 was 5A so not too far apart.
Bypassing the sense resistor on the L6 got me 7.7A. That wakes it up. Lol
I thought your Astrolux C8 was awfully bright at 1380, then I see they use a FET driver in it. That explains it. It might even be higher than the rated spec of 1300 lumen.
What is up with the Sofirn C8A? 1800 lumen! That must be due to the low Vf of the xpl-2 combined with a FET driver. That’s my kind of C8. It is also conservatively rated at 1747 lumen. I might need to get one of those.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
TA, for the re calibration discs you’re making are you using 30 seconds after turn on?
The light I am using only changes by about 2-3 lumens from 5 seconds to 30 seconds so I generally take the readings somewhere in that time frame. At this point it is just verification on all the other spheres.
For my personal readings, I rarely use 30 second readings unless requested for various reasons I have explained before.
Basically when taking many readings throughout the day it becomes very time consuming to use 30 second readings. The batteries also need to be recharged after each 30 second reading in many cases. The light also has to cool off after each reading.
So generally my readings are between 5-10 seconds or when the readings stabilize and then I round down from there to get around 30 second numbers.
TA, for the re calibration discs you’re making are you using 30 seconds after turn on?
The light I am using only changes by about 2-3 lumens from 5 seconds to 30 seconds so I generally take the readings somewhere in that time frame. At this point it is just verification on all the other spheres.
TA, for the re calibration discs you’re making are you using 30 seconds after turn on?
I’m sure he’s using the exact instructions Maukka gave him to use (including battery or power supply voltage) to match the readings he recorded in his sphere. So that should all be good. No worries in that department.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
TA, for the re calibration discs you’re making are you using 30 seconds after turn on?
I’m sure he’s using the exact instructions Maukka gave him to use (including battery or power supply voltage) to match the readings he recorded in his sphere. So that should all be good. No worries in that department.
Yes, he gave me both the turn on numbers along with the 30 second numbers. Luckily the low modes of the S2+ are very consistent so the timing is not super important but I did indeed test it at the 30 second mark a few times to double check.
The BLF348 is amazingly consistent, it is what it is and stays that way.
Some of us may have two correction factors. My personal one will be .73 based on all collected data, but can use .70 in the future when comparing community readings. I'm not sure I will want to add any filters to mine - as it just adds another variable. I think I'm content with mine the way it is.
—
My reviews:,My personal collection of lightsLINK, J5 Tactical V1 Pro reviewLINK, Thirteen Optical Sensors reviewLINK, Zebralight SC700d reviewLINK, Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman reviewLINK,Convoy S2+ color combosLINK, How To flash D4V2LINK.
Some of us may have two correction factors. My personal one will be .73 based on all collected date, but can use .70 in the future when comparing community readings. I’m not sure I will want to add any filters to mine – as it just adds another variable. I think I’m content with mine the way it is.
That’s cool, I would just recommend that if you say you measured the lumens using Texas Aces Lumen tube to please add what correction factor you’re using so that other people won’t be confused.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Some of us may have two correction factors. My personal one will be .73 based on all collected data, but can use .70 in the future when comparing community readings. I’m not sure I will want to add any filters to mine – as it just adds another variable. I think I’m content with mine the way it is.
Obviously it is your sphere, you can do what you want with it but I plan to send them to everyone so they at least have the choice of using them.
Should only cost me around $140 to send these out to everyone. lol
I stand behind my products so it is worth it to keep my reputation in tact.
Did i tell you guys i got almost 19000 lumen @30 seconds with my mt09r TA triple xhp70.2.. This light is amazing.. i think its one of my best xhp70.2 light..
0.70 is fine for me.
Sorry for my poor english.
TA, I was also meaning to ask you if your lumen tube was calibrated to match up to some of the other members on the forums homemade lumen tube/integrating spheres such as DB Custom, Tom E and Vestureofblood.
I was thinking they were all calibrated about the same, but DB was insulted that I thought his and others measurements might be 20% to 30% high. He said they based their calibration numbers on many high end lights rated ansi-fl1 numbers to arrive at a good average they believed was accurate.
I figured I’d ask you in case your lumen tube was not matched up to theirs.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Initially I did not calibrate my tube to match theirs and based it purely on the raw lumen numbers from naked LED’s. While it was not super consistent due to the china suppliers I was using at the time I was getting a calibration about 20-25% lower then I ended up with.
When I started comparing my numbers with all the others I could find on BLF I noticed mine were always very low, I just figured that the china suppliers had lied and all my samples were lower bins then I assumed and adjusted my numbers by about 21% it looks like on the notes.
Figuring that around 3 bins was a reasonable guess (seeing as I was buying “V6 XP-L HI LED’s” that did not exist) that put me reasonably close to the other readings I was seeing on BLF (although still generally on the low side). I was sick of constantly second guessing myself at this point and decided to just pick and number and stick to it.
Like Djozz said in another thread “The man that only has one watch always knows what time it is”. Well I decided to only have one watch moving forward and since it was still on the low side compared to everyone else, I just assumed it was reasonably accurate.
Turns out it was not even close. I am still shocked at just how far off it was. I never would of guessed that since it was not far off from all the other readings I saw on BLF.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Ok, I just did some more testing, I really like this setup for the 3” spheres, seems to be reading pretty consistent across all the ones I have tested.
I just started messing with a 4” though and it is a bit more tricky. There is no easy way to mount the diffuser like the 3” so the best option I am coming up with is to run a strip of tape around the edge of the meter and then tape the discs to it. It seems to hold them in place good enough.
Although them being closer to the meter causes the readings to be a little different. Still close but I will need a wider sample base to see which orientation will work best. Going to go grab the rest of the ones I have now.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
It’s possible the other guys could be too high by a larger number than I thought. I suggested they might be 20% to 30% high, but they may actually be closer to 35% or so too high.
Have you considered loaning out those “Maukka measured” lights to some of those established guys with older devices? Maybe they would like to use it to see if their older calibrations are off.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
So it would be great idea if any would do it. But it might burst some bubbles in the process if they did……
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
If mine read low compared to some of them and it was over 30% high, then it is quite possible most of the spheres around here are 25-35% high or more. I am not going to point fingers though other then to point out that my own sphere was this far off before I had a way to calibrate it better.
I am considering making my own calibrated lights based on Maukka’s but I think I will keep the originals for myself so that I always have a consistent standard to refer back to. Never know what could happen if the post office gets a hold of it a few times.
If any of the older guys on here wants a loaner comparison light to calibrate their sphere I have a few lights of mine here I could measure and loan out though. I would just have to see what I have on hand that is regulated.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
lol, yeah, my sphere is now the heartbreaker dyno (those in the car world know what I am talking about). I took a few random readings of lights I had laying around and it is amazing how much it psychologically hurts to see the numbers 30% lower even though I know logically they are the same brightness.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Ok, I tested a few more 3” and I am very happy with these, they are all coming out well within spec except for that outlier.
The 4” are also testing good as well, the first one I grabbed seems to of been further off then the others. The 4” is averaging out slightly higher readings but only about 1% or so.
Overall I really like this fix and by adjusting the direction that the discs are facing you can fine tune the readings if you get a calibrated light at some point.
I am going to go get the diffusing sheet this after noon and then see when I can get access to the laser cutter.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
.70 sound good.
Hi.
I have done several readings on my lights and i feel that the number are coming in low. But its interesting to see how mych light is coming uot off my lights.
1000 lumen now is realy bright:).
If anyone want my numbers i can wright it upp but i dont know if it helps. TA_s fix will make them wrong…or nott?
/Micael
Micael
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube
Right now the TA lumen tube is reading too high, so we take the numbers from the meter (usually after 30 seconds when using higher levels) and multiply by .7 to get true lumens.
TA is making a little disc that we add to our tubes to make them read about 30% lower. This means we don’t have to do any math. The reading on the meter will be the correct lumen output.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Correct, for the 3” tubes it will just be a matter of popping them into the meter hole in the correct orientation.
For the 4” tubes they will need to tape the discs to the meter in order to make them stay put. Not hard, just needs a strip of normal official tape to goa round the outside edge of the meter / discs.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
All readings are at 30 sec and batterys is 30q att 4,18-4,19v rested about 1 hour after charging.
26650 Battery Liitokala blue. Correction factor 0.68 The factor is after tested light from Maukka.
It was one number that fell outside of the ,68 factor but for consistent reading all are ,68.
Olight sr mini intimidator
Low 417 Lumen
Turbo 2500 Lumen
Klarus Xt11Gt first gen
Medium 72 Lumen
High 318 Lumen
Turbo 1448 Lumen
Klarus Xt11Gt second gen.
Medium 95 Lumen
High 402 Lumen
Turbo 1747 Lumen
Olight R50 seeker
Low 27 Lumen
Medium 395 Lumen
High 1193 Lumen
Turbo 2352
Imalent Dn70 1:a
Low 42 Lumen
Medium 329 Lumen
High 2257 Lumen
Turbo 2964
Imalent 2:a
Low 47 Lumen
Medium 347
High 2128
Turbo 3114
Imalent Dn35
Low 20 Lumen
Medium 435 Lumen
High 1162 Lumen
Turbo 1394 Lumen
Nightcore Tm03 supplied battery
Low 41 Lumen
Medium 673 Lumen
High 1638 Lumen
Turbo 3216 Lumen.
Nightcore EC11 Nightcores battery Yelow/black 18350
Medium1) 141 Lumen
Medium2) 279 Lumen
High 496 Lumen
Turbo 952 Lumen
Convoy L6
Low 17 Lumen
Medium 150 Lumen
High 1328 Lumen
Turbo 3060 Lumen
Thorfire S70s
Low 282 Lumen
Medium 918 Lumen
High 2434 Lumen
Turbo 3447
Emisar D4
Default 153 Lumen
Turbo 1652 Lumen
30 sec Emisar D1 Default 155 Lumen Turbo 1468 Lumen30 secAstroluw C8
Low 1)
Low2) 5 Lumen
Medium1) 57 Lumen
Medium2) 178 Lumen
High1) 418 Lumen
High2) 818 Lumen
Turbo 1379 Lumen.
Sofirn C8a 1:a
Medium 80 Lumen
High 530 Lumen
Turbo 1822 Lumen
Sofirn C8a 2:a
Madium 80 Lumen
High 490 Lumen
Turbo 1856 Lumen
Sofirn Sf 11. Battery Ikea Ladda 2450
Low 15 Lumen
Medium 150 Lumen
High 345 Lumen
Turbo 969 Lumen
I have several small AA lights to but I have not tested them yet.
Micael
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube
Very cool.
I was a bit disappointed in the Convoy L6. I thought they were closer to 3400-3500 like the S70s. My L6 is way too modded to get factory readings from. I think the L6 amp draw was 4.5A and the S70 was 5A so not too far apart.
Bypassing the sense resistor on the L6 got me 7.7A. That wakes it up. Lol
I thought your Astrolux C8 was awfully bright at 1380, then I see they use a FET driver in it. That explains it. It might even be higher than the rated spec of 1300 lumen.
What is up with the Sofirn C8A? 1800 lumen! That must be due to the low Vf of the xpl-2 combined with a FET driver. That’s my kind of C8. It is also conservatively rated at 1747 lumen. I might need to get one of those.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
The sofirn C8a have spring bypas from factory, they are nice but get hott fast
Micael
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube
.70 sounds good.
TA, for the re calibration discs you’re making are you using 30 seconds after turn on?
The light I am using only changes by about 2-3 lumens from 5 seconds to 30 seconds so I generally take the readings somewhere in that time frame. At this point it is just verification on all the other spheres.
For my personal readings, I rarely use 30 second readings unless requested for various reasons I have explained before.
Basically when taking many readings throughout the day it becomes very time consuming to use 30 second readings. The batteries also need to be recharged after each 30 second reading in many cases. The light also has to cool off after each reading.
So generally my readings are between 5-10 seconds or when the readings stabilize and then I round down from there to get around 30 second numbers.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I’m sure he’s using the exact instructions Maukka gave him to use (including battery or power supply voltage) to match the readings he recorded in his sphere. So that should all be good. No worries in that department.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Yes, he gave me both the turn on numbers along with the 30 second numbers. Luckily the low modes of the S2+ are very consistent so the timing is not super important but I did indeed test it at the 30 second mark a few times to double check.
The BLF348 is amazingly consistent, it is what it is and stays that way.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
.70 Send it!
Can you post some pic’s of the mod too when you get the chance?
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Yep, once I have it finalized I will get some pictures to show exactly how to install it.
I got the diffusing sheet today and hope to get it cut tomorrow.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Some of us may have two correction factors. My personal one will be .73 based on all collected data, but can use .70 in the future when comparing community readings. I'm not sure I will want to add any filters to mine - as it just adds another variable. I think I'm content with mine the way it is.
My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK, J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK, Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINK, Zebralight SC700d review LINK, Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK, Convoy S2+ color combos LINK, How To flash D4V2 LINK.
That’s cool, I would just recommend that if you say you measured the lumens using Texas Aces Lumen tube to please add what correction factor you’re using so that other people won’t be confused.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I tested the stock fenix tk15 rated 1000 lumen.. using .70 factor, it gives me 1050 lumen..
So far so good..
Obviously it is your sphere, you can do what you want with it but I plan to send them to everyone so they at least have the choice of using them.
Should only cost me around $140 to send these out to everyone. lol
I stand behind my products so it is worth it to keep my reputation in tact.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Did i tell you guys i got almost 19000 lumen @30 seconds with my mt09r TA triple xhp70.2.. This light is amazing.. i think its one of my best xhp70.2 light..
Using a .68 factor it’s even closer at 1020 lumen.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
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