FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

I agree with TK.

My vote is for XPL HI for the FW3A. Preferably in a nice neutral tint like 5D.

I wouldn’t be against Lumintop making different versions for people with other tastes though. Perhaps an XPG2 version for those who want the cheapest possible light. And maybe a 219C version for high-CRI fans.

I’m not impressed with the LH351D. Way too floody.

XPL HI for me as well. Is there an official poll?

I’m a big fan of LH351D.
I think it would be a superb choice for those of us who want pure flooders.
For more general-purpose uses - it just doesn’t look like a good option in optic this small.
If this light is to be produced with one LED option - I recommend against LH351D.

Shaving the LED would largely fix that, at the cost of reduced efficiency (but still quite good). The light would definitely still be a flooder, but useful to more people.
And mass-shaving LEDs doesn’t seem to be a costly operation. Shaved LH351D should cost less than stock XP-L HI.

+1 :+1: It does indeed look like the XPL HI is the best all around choice looking at the chart TK listed. (see link below)

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http://toykeeper.net/torches/fw3a/emitter-poll.html

FW3A Emitter Type

Please put your forum username in the “email” box. If there is a tie, it may be broken by removing anonymous votes.
……………………………Price Lumens Throwiness CRI Beam Heat

……….Cree XP-L HI $36 3300………… …… 70+… xx
………….Cree XP-G3 $30 3000………… ………… 70+……… xxxx
………….Cree XP-G2 $30 2200………… ……… 70+……. xx
…………Nichia 219c $30 2600………… ………… 90+…… xxxxx
Samsung LH351D $30 3000?……… …………. 90+*…… xxx

(x = )

For price and heat, lower values are better. For everything else, higher values are better.

Throwiness is a rough measure of candelas per lumen. It’s the overall beam shape. Even the throwiest option is not a thrower, because compact triples are floody by nature.

“Beam” is the overall beam quality, like smoothness and color consistency.

More peppers makes thermal management harder, reduces the sustainable brightness after step-down, and increases risk of damaging the emitters on turbo.

Worst part about each:
XP-L HI: Costs more.
XP-G3: Strongest “Cree Rainbow” effect: angle-based tint shift, green around hotspot.
XP-G2: Lowest output. Old.
219c: Most heat, lowest sustainable output, highest chance of damaging itself on turbo.
LH351D: Super floody. May be a bit green at low levels.

Values only indicate approximate performance in a Carclo 10511 optic using a FET for direct drive on 1x18650. These have not been directly tested in the FW3A host, so this data is more of an educated guess than a measurement.

Votes will be counting with the Schulze Condorcet method.
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@TK……
Is this something we are supposed to be voting on or has that already taken place??

I just looked that up, 5D is just below 4000K?
I suspect most people would consider that quite warm, to me it would look muddy orange, 4C is too warm for me, 3D just about perfect.
Mood lighting has its place, but this is an EDC light, built for practical function.
I know there will be differing opinions and perceptions, but if I am not mistaken several polls and discussions have shown 5000 is around the middle of what the BLF majority want in an EDC. A6 neutral and Q8 are both around that mark I believe, and look great.

I’m worried that the Samsungs will make this an indoor light only, and not the EDC we are hoping for.
I’d pay the extra $6 for more throw.

The poll is not active yet. I’m waiting until TLF is back online so everyone can participate. It’ll be run on the same site I used for the muggle mode poll, where people rank their preferences in order.

Until then, I’ve been trying to make sure the comparison table is accurate, so I put a preview online to get feedback.

OK… thank you for that info TK… :+1:

<span class=“:person_facepalming: improvise. to had I so above… correctly post to table” “comparison your get not could I”> . :smiley:

I believe LH351D 70+ deserves to be listed just like CRI 90+. Frankly, I have no idea why with this particular emitter so few people are interested in lower CRIs…

I totally agree & IIRC your statements are correct also about pteferences. I am hoping for at least 5000K Zulumoose. A bit more is fine too…. but at least 5000K. Hopefully below the BBL too.

I am good with 2D or 3D. 3A is perfect.
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EDIT: @Zulumoose…. Here is one of the Polls you mentioned.

Amen!!! :+1:

Xpl Hi with BELOW 5000K, the Q8 is somtimes too cold.

(I hope I can replace it to use Nichias 219B 4000K)

Hmm. I would like to have a throwy “XP-L Hi” and a floody “LH351D” version of this light…

Considering the intention is to have TIR optics, how much difference will the “throwiness” of the LED actually make?
Won’t the lens produce a similar result regardless?
Are there different triple TIR optics out there that would allow for different beam patterns, like with a single emitter TIR?

I would like to see xpl-hi’s in the 4000k range. But in any case whatever in ends up with,if its not too late, please put me down for 2. Thank you for everyone working on this!
Steve

Much. Just like with any other optics.

Yes, with Carclo you can choose smooth or frosted finish. And cups that shape the beam to different beams.
Though really the only options that make sense is the narrowest cups with clear or frosted.

I’m aware of 1 other 3-up 20 mm lens, it’s from Kaidomain. I think it’s clear only and has slightly different hole spacing.

If the throw of the Samsung LEDs were an issue could we not just as for the narrow clear optic instead of the narrow frosted? I’m putting the floodiest optic I can find it it regardless.

Very, very floody with clear lens too.

Dedoming the LED is the only thing that can make it “floody” without adjectives in this lens size.

Another vote for xpl-hi (5D)

XP-L HI 5D or the Samsung is my choice. If they were to do multiple, I think XP-L HI 5D and 219C 5000K would cover a lot of peoples preferences. I’m interested in seeing the poll results (once the poll is created).

I used doubled 20ga wires to get more current through my 219C triple. This didn’t hurt the emitters. It does have more of a heatsink than the FW3A will, but the FW3A will thermal throttle sooner.