Sorry if this has been discussed in one of the multiple S2 modding thread, i canāt find a clear answer: is the A6 driver compatible with the S2+ and does the switch need replacement (the A6 driver needs a high amp forward clicky if iām not mistaken)?
Essentially Iād like to turn this copper S2 into a copper A6ā¦
Is that with pill and battery?
Copper has only 30% better volumetric spec. heat capacitance compared to aluminum, so theoretically if aluminum S2 reaches 60C in 30 seconds, copper S2 would reach it in 30*1.3=39 seconds.
But, because aluminum S2 is black and copper S2 is bare metal finish, black S2 will loose more heat via radiation, so difference would be less than 9 seconds.
Heat capacitance as method of cooling is double-edged sword, since it will also take more time for flashlight to cool down.
I was told about 173.5 grams without batteries & about 220 grams with a 30Q in it.
Is there a modern fet+1 driver available? Maybe even one that works with a lighted switch?
My plan if I try to build one is to use the BLF X5/X6 driver along with the lighted switch from the same. Both available on BG for about $11 combined. As far as I can tell that should be a drop in setup to give this thing superpowers and a glow-butt. 
Not to mention that driver comes with ToyKeeperās Bistro firmware which is simply an outstanding UI.
I think most heat is transferred through conduction (into your hand) and convection (cold air moving around the light), cooling by radiation is negligible at the temperatures weāre talking about here. Thermal capacity also does nothing for cooling, only in the sense that we get a few seconds/minutes before the light steps down because of insufficient cooling.
Also, about radiation: whatās important is not the color something has for visible light but rather for infrared light. Anodized aluminium has a pretty good emissivity regardless of its visible color, so even if it were white it would be still as good; for copper, Wikipedia tells me, it makes a huge difference whether itās polished or oxidized, so with polished copper, cooling by radiation would be considerably worse.
light with pill, no battery
You hand wont transfert more than 3-4 watts.
I agree with led4power.
Mine weighs 176g no battery on a cheap scale so who knows. It is coated with a clear or ano. I would like to know if it could be removed if anyone figures out what the coating is. I was hoping for raw copper, but its very nice. It has a slightly pink cast so I wonder about the alloy also.
That sounds like most of the copper lights i have, mainly Astroluxās. On a copper A01 i used some nail solvent or acetone and it worked well at removing the thin coating, whatever it was.
Good points, although I think itāll do better than 30% extra time, because the copperās higher thermal conductivity will spread the heat more and make it comfortable to hold for longer.
For example, my Astrolux S41S gets very hot at the head, even while the tail is still cold, due to the poor thermal conductivity of stainless steel. Itās uncomfortable to hold normally at that point, because at least one finger will be touching the hot head.
My S2+ Desert Tan is comfortably warm at the tail by the time the head is uncomfortably hot, due to the better thermal conductivity of aluminium. The fact that more heat conducts rearwards buys extra time before the head finally gets too hot anyway.
Iām thinking that the copper S2+ will be more uniformly hot all over (but still safe) before the head finally gets too hot to hold, which would buy more time still before the user has to shut it down.
In short, Iām expecting to get the 30% extra from volumetric thermal capacity, plus some unknown extra percentage from the fact that copperās higher thermal conductivity brings more of the lightās body into play, both to store heat and to dissipate it.
Iām looking forward to my chance to find out 
Just checked the AliExpress page: 33 orders placed, 17 units available. Not bad for 36 hours advertised only on BLF :+1:
If it only had a copper 18350 tube. If it did, Iād snatch one up in a heartbeat. :cry:
āFreshā Cu is actually a salmon-pink. Scour some Cu under running water and see.
In seconds, it oxidises and takes on that more orangey tinge.
Iām thinking, if itās coated, it was freshly scrubbed and then immediately coated if itās indeed pinkish.
Thatās be pretty kewlā¦
Mmm, had to order one for a :-) gift. Host only, will be powered by an H1-A with a CRI90+ XHP50. For the price difference, Simon will add a requested 16mm 5050 DTP board, holster, diffuser and gift box. :LOVE:
Cheers ^:)
That may well be, but radiation will account for milliwatts only.
I have no idea what power level can be sustained with an S2+ though, is it more than a couple watts?
5-7 watts depends from air temperature.
The A6 is reverse clicky.
I replaced the stock 3/5 mode convoy driver in an aluminum S2+ with an A6 driver. It works.
Iāve paired mine with a SST-40 emitter on a DTP copper MCPCB. Rather than bypassing the tail spring, I doubled up the stock spring with a smaller phosphor bronze spring inside of it. On turbo, with a 30Q or an Aspire 18350 it is very bright and it heats up a lot, fast.
Itāll be better with a copper host, probably, but keep in mind that when it warms up, the click timing on the A6 driver gets wonky. It becomes almost impossible to reverse with a medium click, and half-clicks have to be fast, or the driver will get even more confused. Mountain electronicsā version of the driver uses better components and suffers much less from this problem.
Thanks. Iāll swap drivers and see how it goes. 
Actually, convoy S2 sized light radiates 1-2 Watts at 60C (25C ambient), calculator is here:
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/radiation-heat-transfer-d_431.html
Not much,but S2 has very small surface area, on bigger lights, or lights with fins, radiation can be very significant part of cooling.