None, everything I checked was perfect! However, I’m still waiting on batteries and have only been able to power up with two Thorfire 18650s so far. So there’s still room for something to go wrong haha, but anyway my Q8 didn’t have so much as a burr anywhere.
Yep. The Kaidomain AR lens is better, giving up to 7-8% more brightness and making less tint shift for some reason, and when looking at the sides, there is such a cool blue effect on the lens.
Downside? The tint goes from 4790k to about 4930k, making it slightly cooler to the eyes.
Is anyone else having issues with the anodizing on the threads? My most used Q8 can’t reliably lock out now. Like all my other lights, Super Lube is used on the threads, and a few of those lights have been used many times more. Fortunately Narsil has an electronic lockout.
Of course this was coming at some point. A solution can be to electrically insulate the driver board from the body, it is quite easy: the driver rests on a all-anodised shelf, the only electrical contact is via the 2 screws. If you cut away the brass circuitry plating around the screws (both sides of the driver board), the driver is fully insulated and mechanical lock-out should work again (and now forever).
Nice idea. Plastic washers should work too and only require minor countersinking around the holes. At least that’s temporary in case an unacceptable output drops happens.
Technically, the idea of a Q16 already exists, although only for the LEDs and modders, if we replace the stock XPLs with Luxeon MZs or XHP50.2s, since these are 4 die single package LEDs, meaning 4x4=16=Q16.
No, the Q8 team does not really exists anymore. That said, what is left of us still have some mail contact with the Q8 maker and they are planning (with permission of the Q8 team but without our initiative in the design anymore) to make new versions of the Q8.
Can you say what kind of changes they’re planning? I’d love a tripod mount in the center of the tailcap so I could use an AOD-L diffuser and hang it light a lightbulb. I’d also appreciate more legit Cree emitters if the current can keep up, even to the extreme of going with an optic like the M43 and reducing the length of the head. Unfortunately that raises their cost when I suspect they’re trying to reduce it.