Today I recieved my new Q8 lighted switch to replace the stock switch that was flickering and later just stopped working. Can someone help with the wiring of the switch? The stock wires are all red and the new one have different colors can you tell me which wire goes where?
Thanks in advance for your help
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Here is a pic of the driver, the wires go on the right on the pads named G, L, S
Here is a pic of the back side of the new Q8 lighted switch
Actually, I have seen that BLF Q8 MCPCB in the Sofirn AliExpress Store from several weeks ago (I often browse the Sofirn AliExpress store…), just didn’t know if it’s the original one or not. Since Tracy from Sofirn assures us that it is the original one, this would be good for those who need BLF Q8 replacement parts.
There are also a few other BLF Q8 replacement parts (BLF Q8 reflector, and switch assembly) from the Sofirn AliExpress store, in case anyone needs them:
@Tracy, I was the one who ordered 2xMCPCBs a while ago a few days ago.
And yes, it is the original one. And having messaged Sofirn, they are going to offer some other things soon, including the battery tube, and the tailcap. And a special surprise I will not tell yet.
I wouldn’t want to trust only a tripod mount on a bouncy, pot holed bike ride with such a heavy light. I would feel more confident with some kind of large strap(s) or circular clamp holding the body.
heres a vid of a bike mount and a thread with some pics…scroll down…
That’s a good idea, a remote battery pack and while we’re at it, how about a short replacement for the battery tube with connectors for the cable going to the remote battery case. One can dream
That’s what I meant. It’d be two caps with contact boards and a cable to connect them. If it was used with the upcoming extendable battery tube, battery life could be made virtually limitless. I’ve seen pictures of a solution like this, but no details. It could work with 3d printed parts too, which would keep weight down further.
I used a ‘50mm quick-release truss clamp’ to make a tripod mount for my Noctigon Meteor M43, which lacks a threaded hole. The Meteor and Q8 both fit nicely in the 50mm truss clamp. I stretched some old tubes onto my clamps to increase friction and prevent scratches.
For mounting to a bike or ATV, connect another smaller clamp to grip the handlebars. This makes the light’s angle easily adjustable.
Be sure to use a quick-release truss for the light’s end, so you can easily detach the Q8 when you’re not riding. It seems the smaller diameter clamps aren’t widely available with quick-releases.
uhm… I was in the first batch list for the Q8, but then I gave my reservation up to someone else because I was in tight circumstances… but now of course I regret :s I payed 40 USD for the D4, which is worth it, but this massive light for the same price was just a gift… wondering what is the lowest price it has been sold after that. I remember deals around 50-55 usd… has it ever dropped to 40 again?
Have been playing with my new toy - BLF Q8 and still loving it.
While playing with the Q8 last night I noticed something that is not on the owner’s manual or the cheat sheet so I thought I would post my observation here to see if I can get more information on this unlisted “feature”.
Ok so this is what I did:
1) From off, hold and ramp up the brightness till it started to ramp up and let go of the switch.
2) Hold and ramp down the brightness and HOLD the switch down until the light is at the lowest brightness (indicated by one quick blink of the switch).
3) Let go of the switch, within 1/2 second push and release the switch one time.
Doing the above, the switch will blink once and will no longer glow green until you turn on and off the Q8 again.
Now I’m not sure if this is only happening on this version of the firmware (if there has been different versions for the Q8) or I just have a special Q8.
Thought I would post it on here and see what you guys think.