Beast drivers @ Kaidomain

They (MOSFETs) can handle higher currents than relays in smaller package.

Yes, they're MOSFET based. More likely this one: http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/NTMFS4835N-D.PDF

I bought one of the similar drivers at Kaidomain last month. I'm planning to build a triple XML U2 IC in a Maglite. I already have the LEDs from Cutter Electronics.

Here's the one I bought: http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020121

Thermal conductive adhesive to smash between circuit board and body










4835N N-channel MOSFET


http://brunningsoftware.co.uk/FET.htm

This is a good basic read.

I am a tech not but like TO-220 size because of mount and easy solder tabs. I used one on my Phatlight PT120 and a DX cheapo switch to activate. Was able to keep stock Mag switch location and machine the massive copper heasink (from front of Mag tube to back of old switch length) to house the mosfet internally. I'll try to take some pics possible to illustrate. Am currently working on several high amp projects (DD & CVCC) that may need to be mosfet switched. Have this on order and have been patiently waiting http://kaidomain.com/Product/Details.S020079

thanks CX and willie

pics would be great - that's what I was wondering, if a fet can be used w/ a cheapie switch or just alone

I'll obviously need one or the other - the fans alone are eating an amp at 12V

On the phone or would post this pic. I don't remember where it came from and hate to plagiarize but here it is http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/503/fmosfetschemmjimmymos7.jpg/

Cuz of the low voltage was able to eliminate one of the resistors and used a 6.8k (had some) instead of the 10k. Search Lambda builds. I suffer from CRS but recall having issues with the positive ground on the PT emitters. Machined Teflon/plastic insulators to isolate components. This may or not be an issue with pcb mounted emitters.

nice thanks. easier to wire than the design I had for a relay...

Have my part number at the house. Used a different part than Lambda as I found his info after ordering from Digikey. Same results.

Did I miss something or is this a where these monster drivers came from

BTT

I used a IRLB3034PBF MOSFET N-CH 40V 195A TO220 from Digikey.

Here's the pic from the link above:

Thanks CX!!

sounds like (from the other thread) those new multi xml lights use very different drivers (magnetic control ring, strobe options, etc.)

my reflectors shipped, T - 2 months to assembly

Could these drivers work in a car? Car battery can spike up to about 13.8V, and these are rated 12V....

Anyone know of a decent driver that could work for a car project?

Viktor


Edit:

I posted this before looking at the already quoted link...

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020121

I tried out one of the drivers mentioned here tonight, KD sku S020121. Vbatt was really close to Vf of the 3xMCE string I'm powering it with, so I wasn't asking it to do much heavy lifting. Even still, the darn thing overheats and throttles back after about a minute of use. The thermal sponges that it comes with are wedged between it and the Mag D tube and the LED Heatsink above it. For most drivers, including the DX 57779 it replaced, that's sufficient. Even throttled back, output is still pretty high, but side by side with another light with the same emitter and reflector combo and a different driver shows a visible difference in brightness. Oh, it whines on low and medium too. All in all, I'm disappointed.

meaning the light w/ KD driver is dimmer (ie less efficient)?

Dimmer, yes... less efficient, no (or to be fair, I don't know - I haven't measured Pout/Pin in any of the modes). The KD driver, after heating up for ~1 minute, is reducing the amount of current delivered to the LEDs AND the amount of current drawn from the battery pack, so it's not necessarily less efficient, it's just throttling back.

When it throttles back this way, instead of boosting voltage sent to the LEDs to maintain an output that requires a higher Vf than Vbatt, it skips right over going direct drive and lowers the voltage sent to the emitters to a value lower than Vbatt. Presumably, it does this to keep cool. I would have preferred if it only throttled back to a point where Vout approximately matches Vin (i.e., no boosting, but no bucking either).

thanks

that's disappointing...

I have the 9 emitter version here. It looks like I'll use the 'poor man's' technique you described for me, as I had originally planned.

I'm sure you're familiar w/ the technique...but fyi, the KD 5A sst-50 driver that others described as behaving similar to what you've described works fine for a few minutes (which is as long as I've tested) potted w/ devcon 2 ton and alumina in a copper pipe cap (ie no host for heatsinking) but it is very hot after <2min. I suspect it will run indefinitely w/ a copper bushing added and mounted/sinked in my host, but I think it makes more heat than the PT-54

Those heating over drivers-you have to put it whole driver in thermal silicone used in computers or thermal glue bath in body, a lot of difference, no overheating more, all heat goes to body. But quite a lot of mess if you want to change it some time :)

I'm willing to give it a shot, as long as it's cheap (Can't see spending what it would cost to fill a Mag D neck with Arctic Alumina Adhesive.) What do you recommend that will cure? (I don't want 3oz of runny thermal grease mucking things up either.) Do you know of a source for the rubbery thermal adhesive that they always use on the Chinese lights instead of grease? (Reminds me of tub & tile caulk.) Thanks.