Sure would like to get my hands on a couple of those optics.
Edit, OK the link is working now in English. Now I gonna try and find place to order less than 20
Check this out:
- Clemence
Got my order of Yajiamei optics today.
By far the best one to replace the Prime C2 Pro (XHP35 HD) optic is the YJM-XP-20mm-30° with beads . Just remove the original centering ring first and the beam is very smooth.
Suddenly the hotspot is nice and neutral duv near zero instead of strong pink. I might still put in a minus green filter, since the lower modes are a bit on the green side.
All the other ones I tested produced some artifacts or discoloration.
Yes, there are still artifacts but still so much better than the stock one with pink circle hahaha. Also the beam transition is way better
Did you get the same increased output?
- Clemence
With the beaded Yajiamei
0 sec: 1344 lm
30 sec: 1284 lm
1 min: 1245 lm
2 min: 992 lm
Measured again with the stock optics since the original test was done with a DIY sphere
0 sec: 1135 lm (old measurement 1090 lm)
30 sec: 1082 lm (old measurement 1045 lm)
1 min: 1051 lm
So an 18% increase. Would probably get more with a clear optic, but I’m not going to use them.
Correct, the plain tight TIR produces the most OTF lumens 30ish% in my case.
With Prime max angle for max OTF output is < 20°
With Wizard ax angle for max output is < 60°
The reason is the unusually deep recession in Prime’s lens. It’s not too severe in Wizard because the bezel isn’t as tall as Prime and it’s countersunk.
I use 5° because it’s my sidekick for occasional medium thrower, 90% of the time I use my Tiara Pro for hiking/EDC.
- Clemence
I’ll be trying the 5 degree and XHP35 HI for mine. I’m hoping to get 250m+ FL1 throw with nice tint and 80 CRI.
Can someone confirm that it is, in fact, brightest for city?
It’s right there. In white and black. How can you argue with that?
That really depends on what city we are talking about. In my city, this most probably is the brightest. But in Texas it would be just another ordinary LED flashlight. Especially if you live next to Texas_Ace and DBCustom.
- Clemence
Hi there,
Thanks for all the information on this; I’ve ordered a variety of those optics to experiment with, but I’m having real trouble getting the bezel off!
I see you have a bolt with a triangular head - did you make that yourself from a hexagonal head? I’ve tried strap wrenches, but I can’t get them to grip enough…
Any advice gratefully received!
Cheers
Yes, 100% DIY stuff
- Clemence
I also got some of the beaded Yajiamei optics for my Armyteks. I so far have tried some of them with my modded Prime C2 (Nichia 219B-V1 sw45 R9080). The output increase is very obvious! The 10° optic does not create as smooth of a beam profile as one would expect. The 15° is much better, but the edge of the corona is yellow. The 30° optics creates a very even tint, but I think it decreases the throw too much. I will use the 15° lens in this light.
All of the tested lenses create a pronounced, triangle-shaped corona. EDIT: This is caused by the notches in the bezel.
I will soon test some wider variants with my modded Wizard with the larger Samsung LH351D LED.
5° XP Yajiamei creates nice beam profile with no artifacts. Much better and throwier than stock Prime.
- Clemence
Clemence, could you use the oem glass with this 5° XP Yajiamei lens?
AFAIK no, because this XP lens is a bit taller
[Clemence]
Yes, the original lens fits fine at least without the gasket which I found made the beam worse.
I almost pulled the trigger on this light, and luckily I came across this review. I’m astonished by just how the efficiency of the driver lags behind the competition!
Does anyone know:
If there has been any updates to the driver after this review?
Down to what battery voltage level this light will engage turbo?
If it can still engage turbo with at 3.4Vbat then I guess it’s worth the inefficient driver. The boost driver lights I bought (and sold quickly after) all fell out of turbo at 3.7-3.8Vbat.
Hi,
Great job and thread, thank you for sharing this.
This is the most recent thread I could find on this light. I wanted to find out if these issues with tint color (pink-ish), heat, and under performing output are still present?
I’m looking at the “Prime C2 Pro Magnet USB warm white”, and have been for a while. But now I’m not so sure about that choice. So if anyone knows if the “current version” is performing better or they’ve fixed any issues could you please share some information?
Also, I’m really looking to replace an old S30R Batton II with this (mainly because I don’t like the cool white tints). So any recommendations to look at would be much appreciated too. I would like to keep the length as short as the S30R Batton II, though, or as close as possible.
Thanks so much for any help.
Replacing the lens improves the output and beam quality tremendously
[Clemence]