Wavien collars are SOLD OUT [limited production]

So he said, but he burned off a few people, who sent money, with his claims (Dale for one) and never delivered.

That doesn’t mean they don’t work though. Everything I have read from him makes a lot of sense.

Either the collar works primarily by re-cycling the blue using re-stimulation, or mostly by bouncing around all the spectrum and scattering it back.

To make a x2 gain just from the blue (what proportion of it is present in the original LED+ phosphor output ?) surprises me, but I can be convinced, by facts and data.

50 of you have bought them, so hopefully we’ll hear some results.

Isn’t BLF great ?

The collar has the same effect that a blue laser has when shined onto phosphor. A blue laser also makes the tint more yellow/green.

These pics both show an Osram Black Flat. It is running at the same current in both pics. In the pic where it’s brighter, a high-powered blue laser is being shined at it. You can see that the tint of the LED becomes much greener.

Now we are back into remote laser-phosphor technology, which works splendidly. With suitable phosphors.

Edit: not just shining a laser at an LED, but with designed remote phosphor pieces (not LEDs). And optics (mainly reflectors) to maximise the output.

Coming to a car to you soon (maybe not in the USA, the regulators are very conservative). But has been lighting up the roads in premium EU cars for a few years now. At a price.

A cool-white LEDs phosphor produces yellow-green light, not orange or reddish light. It will never be truly “warm” like an incan. Only a sickly yellow-green which is warmer than standard cool-white, but not “warm”.

Here is a diagram from sma’s test . He measured the tint before and after. The clear shift of this de-domed XP-G2 towards yellow can be seen. It was probably a 6000K variant before de-doming.
“mit Kragen” means with collar:

I use hot glue but if you want something more permanent maybe use some silicone stuff which is also flexible and shock absorbing.

Yeah it’s some combination of blue light adding excitement to the phosphor and white light bouncing off the die and re-scattering.

Nothing is assembled but just showing how the collar does seem to fit just fine in a Z1 host

Please report back with your results. I tried my collar in two different lights, one a Z1, and both times my “after” lux was about 30% lower than the “before” measurement. Obviously I aligned it incorrectly since I have no idea what I’m doing lol. But the led looked well centered to me before I held the collar in place with hot glue. The beam looked noticeably dimmer after adding the collar, but otherwise similar in profile.

That doesn’t sound promising. I dont have a driver yet for this nor do I think my ability to focus LEDs is any better than yours so hopefully one of the resident experts can chime in with some suggestions for you/us.

Without owning a Z1 I think this is what happens:

The collar needs to match the lens to get an improvement. The Z1 lens has a short focal length and is quite close to the led, therefore the cone of light coming out of the collar does not fill out the whole surface of the Z1 lens, which in fact then behaves like a lens with smaller diameter and thus less throw: even if the collar is focussed well the gain is more than compensated by the effectively smaller lens.

Agreed Djozz.

I think Marinebeam probably have a well matched lens (diameter and focal length) which will not be easily bettered, at best equalled with very similar parts.

To progress beyond just making a clone, I think you will need a larger diameter, longer focal length lens, an altogether bigger torch. And do some fine tuning of the collar with shims.

The maths doesn’t seem difficult, at least to get an approximate idea of what might work.

I think the Collar will only help, if the flashlight is focussed.
Defocussed it will decrese the angle of outcoming light, as Djozz wrote.

But since it’s a zoomie cant he just adjust the length until it reads the highest lux and fix it at that point or at least make a mark on the light? or am I oversimplifying it? The lens really isnt much smaller, only a few mm if that.

Yes you are oversimplifying. The light comes out from the collar (when precisely set up) at a certain angle, for a certain diameter hole.

Only when everything is perfectly set up does it hit the lens optimally, using all of the diameter. Otherwise it either shines onto a smaller diameter in the centre (meaning much worse f stop) or the excess splatters about in the head and is lost.

This isn’t something to play with by gut feel or optimism. There is some science to understand, and align with engineering practicalities.

Nevertheless, sometimes you can get lucky without understanding why.

Aw, dang, i missed this…

Yup :frowning:
I’m sure some people will put theirs up for sale if they don’t find use for it.

Not me, i’m just waiting for someone to do the hard yards :wink:

To bad that shipping + custom makes it sooo expensive ~100$ for one Collar. I always wanted one for my 1504.
A few years back MEM (Uniquefire UF-1405 - A worthy zoomy? - #456 by MEM) sold a set for the 1504. If i am not wrong his “broadband coated reflective aperture” was even outperforming the Wavien collars. But the package price of ~175$ + shipping + customs (Uniquefire UF-1405 - A worthy zoomy? - #476 by MEM) was a bit to much for me. But it was a good price for what he offered.
Hope to get a Wavien Collar or something like his “broadband coated reflective aperture” some day for less than 50$ inkl. shipping!

^ Yeah, me too.