FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

13647 posts / 0 new
Last post
BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 2 weeks ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 5544
Location: Canada

This is a strange phenomenon that I have gathered some info while working in biology.

Apparently, cyan photoreceptors have a lower lifespan than magenta and yellow, because they tend to absorb higher frequency wavelengths, which are more energetic and destroy the photoreceptors more quickly than the others.

Therefore, with age, there is degeneration of the cyan photoreceptors resulting in lower sensitivity in the blue part of the visible light spectrum, meaning you see less intense blue as you age, explaining what Toykeeper said.

Anyway, this phenomenon also happens in OLED displays: being organic, the blue pixels degrade more quickly than red and yellow. This is why instead of an RGB stripe arrangement, we get Diamond Stripe Pixel arrangement. This allows for lower degradation, but a lower effective resolution.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 4 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 12733
Location: Houston Texas
Camo5 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Camo5 wrote:
I personally want to try to choose the highest efficacy for eye-strain sensitive individuals such as myself, definitely planning on its use as a bike light around others.
Are you sure you want to use the FW3A as a bike light? There are much better choices out there.

Well Currently the D4 is my bike light, it used to be my wizard xD


It’s a bit off topic, but if brightness is a concern I’d go with a 26650 light that can sustain 1000+ lumen along with an elliptical beam pattern. But, to each their own.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

teacher
teacher's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 9596
Location: NE & SW Alabama

Zulumoose wrote:
Interesting take on colour perception TK, I always wondered about the blue rinse phenomenon, but isn’t it the other way round with age, I get the impression the older members here are the ones more likely to prefer the warmer, lower cct values?
Noooooooo….. may it never be. Facepalm . Big Smile . Big Smile

I’m a ‘mature’ member (older) Wink & with very rare exception, I detest pretty much anything below 5000K. A rare dip to 4500K is as low as it gets by choice.

Don’t like it to ‘cool’ either…. 5700K is about the upper limit for me. Wink

2A . 2D . 3A . 3D

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

Tom Tom
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 8 months ago
Joined: 09/10/2017 - 08:30
Posts: 1162

BlueSwordM wrote:

Apparently, cyan photoreceptors have a lower lifespan than magenta and yellow, because they tend to absorb higher frequency wavelengths, which are more energetic and destroy the photoreceptors more quickly than the others.

Therefore, with age, there is degeneration of the cyan photoreceptors resulting in lower sensitivity in the blue part of the visible light spectrum, meaning you see less intense blue as you age, explaining what Toykeeper said.

True. My uncle was an eye surgeon and encouraged us to protect our eyes from UV at all times, even wear sunglasses always during full daylight.

The human eye doesn’t need full daylight to work properly, and the pupil can only contract so far to dim it down.

Lowers the chance of developing cataracts too.

Being short-sighted I’ve always had glasses on, with plastic lenses they block UV almost completely, so despite being older than some, I hope my colour perception is still reasonably OK.

Contact lenses aren’t so protective.

If you use a UV torch, always protect your eyes.

Living in Northern latitudes, mostly 50 degrees North, (but not under the ozone hole) probably helps as well.

It makes sense to me that those with older or simply worn-out eyes from long exposure to bright sunlight might prefer the higher colour temperatures, and have less preference for high CRI.

Wear your eyes out and you’ll also become less sensitive to lower light levels, many elderly have real trouble driving at night, almost blind.

The human eye was probably only “designed” to last 40 years or so and hasn’t evolved much since, so look after yours.

I very rarely use a torch in daylight, that’s probably why I prefer low colour-temp, high CRI, and high intensity is of less importance.

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 28 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 3787
Location: The Land of Enchantment

some differences in flashlight use scenarios

close range in full darkness, and indoors:
lower lumens, wider beams, warmer Color temperatures

longer range, and when adapted to cooler ambient light, and outdoors:
higher lumens, narrower beams, cooler color temperature

I carry a floody light for close range that is high CRi and high R9, and less than 5000k. I use less than 100 lumens indoors, and I prioritize High CRI for that. My indoor use targets are usually smaller and more detailed, and their color is more important to me, especially things like food.

and I carry a spotty light for outdoor distance, that is cooler and has less CRI and less R9 and is more than 5000k. I use more than 100 lumens for outdoor distance, and have less of a fixation on accurate color rendering,
because the target is usually larger, and I mostly just want to know if there is a bear there or not. Im less concerned with the color of the bear.

if the use scenario is to spot a bear, brighter spottier and cooler is better
if the use scenario is to prep food at camp, hang out indoors relaxing, less bright, floodier, and warmer is better, for me.

ymmv by use application

Im 65, wear glasses, have cataracts and other vision challenges, but old ladies with blue hair definitely do not look like blond barbies to me
I also dislike green tint, and 5000k+ low CRI lights have more green tint than my sub 5000k High CRI lights.
However I dont notice the green tint of my cooler lights when my brain is white balanced to cooler CCTs durig the day. I notice the green tint of 5000k+ lights more, when I am adapted to the incandescent light in my home at night.

"High CRI Lights for Sale":https://budgetlightforum.com/node/75426

fuzun
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 1 day ago
Joined: 02/11/2017 - 13:37
Posts: 197

Tom Tom wrote:
BlueSwordM wrote:

Apparently, cyan photoreceptors have a lower lifespan than magenta and yellow, because they tend to absorb higher frequency wavelengths, which are more energetic and destroy the photoreceptors more quickly than the others.

Therefore, with age, there is degeneration of the cyan photoreceptors resulting in lower sensitivity in the blue part of the visible light spectrum, meaning you see less intense blue as you age, explaining what Toykeeper said.

True. My uncle was an eye surgeon and encouraged us to protect our eyes from UV at all times, even wear sunglasses always during full daylight.

The human eye doesn’t need full daylight to work properly, and the pupil can only contract so far to dim it down.

Lowers the chance of developing cataracts too.

Being short-sighted I’ve always had glasses on, with plastic lenses they block UV almost completely, so despite being older than some, I hope my colour perception is still reasonably OK.

Contact lenses aren’t so protective.

If you use a UV torch, always protect your eyes.

Living in Northern latitudes, mostly 50 degrees North, (but not under the ozone hole) probably helps as well.

It makes sense to me that those with older or simply worn-out eyes from long exposure to bright sunlight might prefer the higher colour temperatures, and have less preference for high CRI.

Wear your eyes out and you’ll also become less sensitive to lower light levels, many elderly have real trouble driving at night, almost blind.

The human eye was probably only “designed” to last 40 years or so and hasn’t evolved much since, so look after yours.

I very rarely use a torch in daylight, that’s probably why I prefer low colour-temp, high CRI, and high intensity is of less importance.

Also darker eye color is the major factor for low wear levels in the eye after a certain age. Dark pigments in iris tend to absorb light much more.

So if you have blue, green eyes they need to be protected 2X carefully.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 26 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10623
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
fuzun wrote:
if you have blue, green eyes they need to be protected 2X carefully.

Especially for people who have blonde retinas or are otherwise photosensitive.

I can see pretty well at night, even with only a tenth of a lumen lighting a whole room, but I’m basically blind during the day unless I use dark sunglasses.

BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 2 weeks ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 5544
Location: Canada

Ok that was just rude and uncalled for.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

teacher
teacher's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 9596
Location: NE & SW Alabama

/\ … Yep…. Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

spaceminions
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 07/20/2015 - 14:18
Posts: 149
Location: Texas, USA

I am opposite to jon on the CCT for indoor/outdoors; outdoors in a throwy light too cool of a color temperature is more than useless; it will make such a noticable beam in any haze at all that it is hard to see past it to the thing I want to look at. I would rather a neutral-warm color with fair to good rendering so that I can tell the difference as zak puts it “between a stick and a snake”; the better the color quality the less harsh and difficult to interpret its light seems to be, though actual brightness is not unimportant. Though for the most distance or for locating rogue helicopters or trees, I suppose even a low color quality will suffice.

Card Carrying CRI baby https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/laMC7BGhREfYTRQjYe2I5FMjTF1IjrmM6bPLK9SKEXU.png

 

Mr.Scott
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 02/13/2016 - 00:26
Posts: 850

Please add me for 1 more – for a total of 2.

Thank you

lohtse
lohtse's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 04:18
Posts: 328
Location: UK

I will take two Smile

Caving, Climbing, Mountaineering, Kayaking, Diving etc any time anywhere!!! If you in the UK let me know and lets Play!
Current lighting
Olight X7R,M2R,S1 Baton,S10R Baton 3m,S2R 2, I1R EOS,SofirnC8T,Lenser P7'2,Lenser P14,BLF A6,Fenix HL50,HM50R,HL55,CL05,HL05,CL09,CL25,Nitecore HC30,HC65,NU12,NU32,Astolux K1,Petzl E-light,Tikka Xp3,XP3LED,DUO,Atomlight,Xtar Warboys H3,PL47 Manker E03H and many Chinese ones

Nev
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 04/06/2017 - 07:50
Posts: 1013
Location: U.K.
BlueSwordM wrote:
Ok that was just rude and uncalled for.

What was?

teacher
teacher's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 9596
Location: NE & SW Alabama

Nev wrote:
BlueSwordM wrote:
Ok that was just rude and uncalled for.
What was?
It is gone now Nev. It was a ‘comment’ replying to your thoughts about Nichia emitters. Wink
I quoted your comment below to refresh your memory. Wink
I agree with you also…… Big Smile
.
Nev wrote:
I’ve always thought that nichia looks dull & dirty , seems to me high cri is very similar.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

Nev
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 04/06/2017 - 07:50
Posts: 1013
Location: U.K.

Oh, ok , thanks teacher ,it is just my opinion,my favourite tint is 5700k (zebralight H600f)
I have a few warm & neutral lights & I don’t like any of them except the blf gt.

brettr1
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 6 months ago
Joined: 06/18/2018 - 09:46
Posts: 1
Location: Australia

Please put me down for 1. Looks great!

joechina
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 03/05/2016 - 08:23
Posts: 1444
Location: Germany

Hm, I never sliced a LED

Quote:

FWIW, a sliced and sanded high CRI 4000K Samsung LG351D did warm up from 4000K to 3500K with a tint shift from slightly green to yellow-rosy, and a considerable throw increase, a clear sign that light recycling does happen in modern, warm tinted leds.


Q: djozz from here
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1336537#comment-1336537
Tixx
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 1 week ago
Joined: 08/27/2015 - 22:34
Posts: 308
Location: United States

Zulumoose wrote:
5000k Samsung ………. 4000K Samsung

So is that a brown wall, brown shutter, and brown floor as the 4000K makes it look, or is there a white floor, blue/grey shutter and oatmeal wall, as the 5000K shows?

This is what makes me wonder why anyone has a preference for high cri in a warm cct, if it makes everything that does not have a stark colour look brown, what use is the cri? To me it is like having a magnificent variety in your exotic fish tank, and preferring to keep the water dirty.

Off white desk, greenish background to the left and grey to the right.

Tixx
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 1 week ago
Joined: 08/27/2015 - 22:34
Posts: 308
Location: United States

Tom Tom wrote:
Zulumoose wrote:
5000k Samsung ………. 4000K Samsung

So is that a brown wall, brown shutter, and brown floor as the 4000K makes it look, or is there a white floor, blue/grey shutter and oatmeal wall, as the 5000K shows?

This is what makes me wonder why anyone has a preference for high cri in a warm cct, if it makes everything that does not have a stark colour look brown, what use is the cri? To me it is like having a magnificent variety in your exotic fish tank, and preferring to keep the water dirty.

Far too much green gum (how much do you chew ?)

Did you leave your camera on auto white balance ? Seems to have tried to keep the green gum green (typical behaviour, the natural world is mostly green, so digicams are biased to make it look so)

Not that this means much, use you’re eyes.

By the way, there is a lot more colour in the 4000K shot, even though it is completely wonky.

Camera set to 4500k manual settings for both shots. That gum is over a couple years.

Tixx
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 1 week ago
Joined: 08/27/2015 - 22:34
Posts: 308
Location: United States
ToyKeeper wrote:
Camo5 wrote:
Would an XPL {HI} 4D or 4C or 5A1/A2 or 5B1/B2, XPLAWT-H0-0000-000LV20E4 be of consideration for the emitter choice?

Anything above the blackbody line is probably not happening, because it would look green. So, no “B” or “C” tints.

Early poll results made 4A the top choice, but it shifted later so now the vote points toward 3D. That means 4D or 5A are unlikely unless Lumintop decides to offer a bunch of options like Emisar does. The data so far points toward 5000K (or slightly below) for XP-L HI and toward 4000K for LH351D.

Definitely good to hear no matter the LED (A and D are definitely my preference)

WalkIntoTheLight
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 12/05/2015 - 10:26
Posts: 2157
Location: Canada
Camo5 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Camo5 wrote:
I personally want to try to choose the highest efficacy for eye-strain sensitive individuals such as myself, definitely planning on its use as a bike light around others.
Are you sure you want to use the FW3A as a bike light? There are much better choices out there.

Well Currently the D4 is my bike light, it used to be my wizard xD

IMO, lights that use FET drivers make poor choices for bike lights. I used to use a BLF A6 that uses a FET+1 driver, but in any bright mode (more than about 150 lumens) it dims as the battery drains. I know the FW3A is supposed to use more 7135 chips, but I don’t believe it will maintain constant output. All my Convoys that use 8×7135 chips, still dim significantly as the battery voltage goes down. Not as bad as FET, but still very noticeable. Maybe the FW3A will do things better than Convoy, but I wouldn’t rely on that.

I now use a Zebralight SC600w MkIV Plus as my bike light. I normally use it at 700 lumens, and that will provide me a regulated 700 lumen output for almost 3 hours (using a Sanyo GA cell). If I go up to 2300 lumens, it will go up that high, regardless of the battery voltage. And when going downhill on gravel or dirt, I want that full 2300 lumens.

You need a light with a good boost driver if you want regulated output. For me, that’s very important when cycling. I don’t want to start out at 700 lumens, only to have it gradually dim to 400 lumens over my ride.

gkushev
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 21 hours ago
Joined: 04/21/2018 - 12:34
Posts: 55

Please add me for 2. Thanks.

wiley07
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 1 week ago
Joined: 01/18/2018 - 07:21
Posts: 45
Location: United States

Please add me for 2. Th
anks.

Tom Tom
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 8 months ago
Joined: 09/10/2017 - 08:30
Posts: 1162
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
Camo5 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Camo5 wrote:
I personally want to try to choose the highest efficacy for eye-strain sensitive individuals such as myself, definitely planning on its use as a bike light around others.
Are you sure you want to use the FW3A as a bike light? There are much better choices out there.

Well Currently the D4 is my bike light, it used to be my wizard xD

IMO, lights that use FET drivers make poor choices for bike lights. I used to use a BLF A6 that uses a FET+1 driver, but in any bright mode (more than about 150 lumens) it dims as the battery drains. I know the FW3A is supposed to use more 7135 chips, but I don’t believe it will maintain constant output. All my Convoys that use 8×7135 chips, still dim significantly as the battery voltage goes down. Not as bad as FET, but still very noticeable. Maybe the FW3A will do things better than Convoy, but I wouldn’t rely on that.

I now use a Zebralight SC600w MkIV Plus as my bike light. I normally use it at 700 lumens, and that will provide me a regulated 700 lumen output for almost 3 hours (using a Sanyo GA cell). If I go up to 2300 lumens, it will go up that high, regardless of the battery voltage. And when going downhill on gravel or dirt, I want that full 2300 lumens.

You need a light with a good boost driver if you want regulated output. For me, that’s very important when cycling. I don’t want to start out at 700 lumens, only to have it gradually dim to 400 lumens over my ride.

In UK/EU there are strict regulations about bike lights and reflectors, the German ones being the tightest.

They have been drawn up for good reason, with a lot of study. We ride bikes a lot more than in some other regions and have some experience of how to do it properly, on the road, mixed with faster transport.

If you don’t have at least a legal front and rear light with certification markings, and a full set of reflectors including pedals, then get wiped out by a motor vehicle, the insurers will probably persuade the court to reduce compensation by 50%

Other EU countries have a blanket policy, any such collision is always the drivers fault, no matter how stupidly the cyclist has behaved.

https://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/regulations/lighting-regulations

My point being that an A6 or FW3A is never going to be a suitable cycle light. Fundamental point, it doesn’t emit anything 90 degrees sideways, crucial to avoid side-road car main-road bike collisions (sorry mate, I didn’t see you as we say).

And the A6 etc. bikelight flashy mode is illegal here (detail: “The 2005 RVLR amendment meant that it was now legal to have a flashing light on a pedal cycle, provided it flashed between 60 and 240 times per minute (1 – 4Hz).”

To protect photosensitive epileptics.

I was sent a couple of extreme power “bike lights” by Thorfire to evaluate, but had to explain to them that whilst great for off-road, they would never be legal on-road anywhere in UK/EU, and they would have to get suitable certification. They were really good, but that project never went further.

Eraursls1984
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 5 days ago
Joined: 11/08/2014 - 01:44
Posts: 212
Location: North Florida

Tom Tom wrote:
In UK/EU there are strict regulations about bike lights and reflectors, the German ones being the tightest.

They have been drawn up for good reason, with a lot of study. We ride bikes a lot more than in some other regions and have some experience of how to do it properly, on the road, mixed with faster transport.

If you don’t have at least a legal front and rear light with certification markings, and a full set of reflectors including pedals, then get wiped out by a motor vehicle, the insurers will probably persuade the court to reduce compensation by 50%

Other EU countries have a blanket policy, any such collision is always the drivers fault, no matter how stupidly the cyclist has behaved.

https://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/regulations/lighting-regulations

My point being that an A6 or FW3A is never going to be a suitable cycle light. Fundamental point, it doesn’t emit anything 90 degrees sideways, crucial to avoid side-road car main-road bike collisions (sorry mate, I didn’t see you as we say).

And the A6 etc. bikelight flashy mode is illegal here (detail: “The 2005 RVLR amendment meant that it was now legal to have a flashing light on a pedal cycle, provided it flashed between 60 and 240 times per minute (1 – 4Hz).”

To protect photosensitive epileptics.

I was sent a couple of extreme power “bike lights” by Thorfire to evaluate, but had to explain to them that whilst great for off-road, they would never be legal on-road anywhere in UK/EU, and they would have to get suitable certification. They were really good, but that project never went further.


But they would be suitable off road.
zak.wilson
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 09/29/2014 - 14:27
Posts: 1002
Quote:
In UK/EU there are strict regulations about bike lights and reflectors, the German ones being the tightest.

The German regulations require that bikes use lights powered by a dynamo rather than a battery, unless the bike is under a certain weight and presumably for racing. They also require that the dynamo output 6 volts, which is oddly specific. I’m not sure these regulations are actually all that well-considered.

I do think a bike light for on-road use should have suitable optics, usually with hard cutoffs. The 10511 is absolutely not that. The 10510 elliptical optic might work OK for a bike light. Time spent in regulation with 7135s depends on forward voltage, which is lower for the same output with a triple. Of the possible emitters, the 219C has the lowest forward voltage.

Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android

Tom Tom
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 8 months ago
Joined: 09/10/2017 - 08:30
Posts: 1162
Eraursls1984 wrote:
But they would be suitable off road.

Of course they were (and I enjoy them), but not appropriate for road-use and never going to be certified.

Limited market here, riding off-road at night ? Few bike shops would carry them without certification, even “under the counter”.

In UK you can have them (or anything) on you’re bike as long as you also have legal lights for on the road.

The UI was not suitable, just a circular cycle, so if using them on the road it took multiple button presses to dim them down or turn off. Not what you want to be doing when trying not to dazzle oncoming, and keep your hands on the handlebars and brake levers. Whilst riding fast.

Great off-road, but that’s specialist. The fashion here is MAMIL (middle aged men (or matrons) in Lycra, on sport road bikes. They don’t usually ride in the dark.

And ultra-light, just the bare minimum legal stuff, with a couple of tiny lights in case you get caught-out. Plus a GoPro on your helmet to record any bad behaviour by motorists. Motorists have dashcams too, for similar reasons.

Other EU countries use bikes for everyday transport, quite different, I wish we could reach that stage soon.

Yoav.Klein
Offline
Last seen: 8 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 08/23/2014 - 15:39
Posts: 10

Please sign me up for one light.

Thanks to everyone who worked on this light!

pepinfaxera
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 37 sec ago
Joined: 06/25/2015 - 12:53
Posts: 305
Location: Gijón - Spain - Europe

Updated list : … . . . . . . . . . . C L O S E D
.
Primary Interest List, (main): See Post # 4, Page 1 .
.
.
.
pepinfaxera: Interest List: See #Post , Page 111

pepinfaxera: Interest List, duplicate: See # Post , Page 71 ,
.
-
1233 – # Post . bansuri
.
New requests:
.
Correcting: …
.
1125 – # Post . Bob_McBob

Bob_McBob wrote:
I’m 1038, could you put me down for another two please?
See # Post: 2856, page 96
Apologies, I’m sorry.
I need to edit list.
Greetings.
- .
- .
-18 Off : # Post . DB Custom , See # Post . … “Delete, Remove”
.
-1174 Off : # Post . CM2010 , See #Post . … “Delete, Remove”
.
-931 Off: # Post . darrylo 3nd … “Delete, Remove”
-932 Off: # Post . darrylo 4nd … “Delete, Remove”

-1344 Off : See # Post Coscar, delete . “Remove”
.
- .
- .
1234 – # Post . mniezen
1235 – # Post . mniezen
1236 – # Post . FBsLights
1237 – # Post . preface
1238 – # Post . whopist
1239 – # Post . jaynick
1240 – # Post . jaynick
1241 – # Post . jaynick
1242 – # Post . tjl014
1243 – # Post . tjl014
1244 – # Post . Cutchya
1245 – # Post . I LIKE FLASHLIGHTS
1246 – # Post . DoubleU
1247 – # Post . ActiveAl
1248 – # Post . severide
1249 – # Post . Tarvos
1250 – # Post . Tarvos
1251 – # Post . kmwc72 CN
1252 – # Post . kmwc72 CN
1253 – # Post . ActiveAl
1254 – # Post . Lion42
1255 – # Post . Lion42
1256 – # Post . andyxxx
1257 – # Post . andyxxx
1258 – # Post . flashycali
1259 – # Post . Aussie78
1260 – # Post . dmsoule
1261 – # Post . dmsoule
1262 – # Post . manithree
1263 – # Post . tvizk
1264 – # Post . raqin
1265 – # Post . retsyx
1266 – # Post . Bervilat
1267 – # Post . kubed_zero
1268 – # Post . kubed_zero
1269 – # Post . korylprince
1270 – # Post . Ratus
1271 – # Post . Edindevon
1272 – # Post . GalaxyWide
1273 – # Post . Medicijnman
1274 – # Post . Nash_Vegas
1275 – # Post . Moomoomao
1276 – # Post . Moomoomao
1277 – # Post . Brinkmann
1278 – # Post . Brinkmann
1279 – # Post . bonfire
1280 – # Post . Moparguy
1281 – # Post . Moparguy
1282 – # Post . .-’_
………….. – 1282 See: .-’_
1283 – # Post . Nooner
1284 – # Post . Atom00
1285 – # Post . javipiloto
1286 – # Post . Lfatman
1287 – # Post . DarkParagon
1288 – # Post . Crazy999
1289 – # Post . LanternGuy
1290 – # Post . samnavy
1291 – # Post . Random Dan
1292 – # Post . finnegans
1293 – # Post . TheSoulless78
1294 – # Post . wiley07
1295 – # Post . jinjin19
1296 – # Post . QwertzHz
1297 – # Post . Cyzan
1298 – # Post . Cyzan
1299 – # Post . cujo255
1300 – # Post . geetee03
1301 – # Post . apurva
1302 – # Post . apurva
1303 – # Post . Marubae
1304 – # Post . HONDARIDER
1305 – # Post . HONDARIDER
1306 – # Post . yokomus
1307 – # Post . Chatika vas Paus
1308 – # Post . Chatika vas Paus
1309 – # Post . Snoballz
1310 – # Post . spaceminions
1311 – # Post . Mr.Scott
1312 – # Post . lohtse
1313 – # Post . lohtse
1314 – # Post . brettr1
1315 – # Post . gkushev
1316 – # Post . gkushev
1317 – # Post . wiley07
1318 – # Post . wiley07
1319 – # Post . Yoav.Klein
1320 – # Post . Bd7
1321 – # Post . alejo
1322 – # Post . hiker89
1323 – # Post . hiker89
1324 – # Post . hiker89
1325 – # Post . NordicMist
1326 – # Post . wheelgunwordslinger
1327 – # Post . Dsvist12
1328 – # Post . Dsvist12
1329 – # Post . Doobyscoo
1330 – # Post . mrgreengenes42
1331 – # Post . misterpearguy
1332 – # Post . MobileEMP
1333 – # Post . MobileEMP
1334 – # Post . MobileEMP
1335 – # Post . rennet
1336 – # Post . lew123
1337 – # Post . zeroflow
1338 – # Post . duhduhduhdiabeetus
1339 – # Post . Nortson
1340 – # Post . Hallamski
1341 – # Post . michaeltmohr
1342 – # Post . Glas4d
1343 – # Post . Glas4d
.
1344 – # Post . Coscar
-1344 – See # Post Coscar, delete
.
1344 – # Post . gemmell
1345 – # Post . gemmell
1346 – # Post . a_idiot
1347 – # Post . jaharkes
1348 – # Post . madness
1349 – # Post . arisdes
1350 – # Post . Zeratull
1351 – # Post . severide
1352 – # Post . TheShadowGuy
1353 – # Post . Cursecut3r
1354 – # Post . Hesh24
1355 – # Post . Tony Cape
1356 – # Post . sbslider
1357 – # Post . LightUpTheDark
1358 – # Post . Jagger
1359 – # Post . soldsoulrockroll
1360 – # Post . ReallyInToCheese
1361 – # Post . noobsanpu
1362 – # Post . BurningPlayd0h
1363 – # Post . headburger
1364 – # Post . Phaze13
1365 – # Post . Iselldrugsforgolf
1366 – # Post . Typevii
1367 – # Post . tkd15
1368 – # Post . xikteny
1369 – # Post . bushmaster
1370 – # Post . kevinw0lf
1371 – # Post . scottie888
1372 – # Post . Gondwanaland
1373 – # Post . cannesahs
1374 – # Post . Polyesterboy
1375 – # Post . the0dore3524
1376 – # Post . Stereodude
1377 – # Post . CitizenK
1378 – # Post . bento_blf
1379 – # Post . klrman
1380 – # Post . yokomus
1381 – # Post . KJ4BXT
1382 – # Post . KJ4BXT
1383 – # Post . ale9g
1384 – # Post . Penguin
1385 – # Post . Penguin
1386 – # Post . waxing twilight
1387 – # Post . Roc32
1388 – # Post . Roc32
1389 – # Post . iamlucky13
1390 – # Post . Mops1
1391 – # Post . Mops1
1392 – # Post . wheremydonky
1393 – # Post . wheremydonky
1394 – # Post . wheremydonky
1395 – # Post . psumo
1396 – # Post . adirus
1397 – # Post . geetee03
1398 – # Post . zotee123
1399 – # Post . anycolourfloyd
1400 – # Post . CabalGrim
1401 – # Post . Lick
1402 – # Post . ttylamg
1403 – # Post . Cereal_killer
1404 – # Post . Jay
1405 – # Post . mb200k
1406 – # Post . stolikat
1407 – # Post . TonyG
1408 – # Post . asciiphil
1409 – # Post . Fady
1410 – # Post . Fady
1411 – # Post . Fady
1412 – # Post . lucydog
1413 – # Post . lightknot
1414 – # Post . lightknot
1415 – # Post . xertian
1416 – # Post . xertian
1417 – # Post . Enlightened1
1418 – # Post . Enlightened1
1419 – # Post . elnino
1420 – # Post . gottawearshades
1421 – # Post . 3061fps
1422 – # Post . andrewmac
1423 – # Post . andrewmac
1424 – # Post . firstcipher
1425 – # Post . skinny_tie
1426 – # Post . Nooner
1427 – # Post . Cereal_killer
1428 – # Post . Cereal_killer
1429 – # Post . bushmaster
1430 – # Post . kollers
1431 – # Post . Geese
1432 – # Post . caplang
1433 – # Post . vadimax
1434 – # Post . MonkeyLight
1435 – # Post . MonkeyLight
1436 – # Post . MonkeyLight
1437 – # Post . MonkeyLight
1438 – # Post . justaguy
1439 – # Post . justaguy
1440 – # Post . HeavyD3
1441 – # Post . HeavyD3
1442 – # Post . knuckles
1443 – # Post . Mops1
1444 – # Post . thejinn
1445 – # Post . fusion_m8
1446 – # Post . justanotherguy
1447 – # Post . Geese
1448 – # Post . JohnnyUtah
1449 – # Post . loki993
1450 – # Post . e1000
1451 – # Post . jamio
1452 – # Post . hodor
1453 – # Post . Ilmatic
1454 – # Post . Ilmatic
1455 – # Post . atasuke_
1456 – # Post . AcIDsNaZz
1457 – # Post . Desert Lumens
1458 – # Post . bulbeee
1459 – # Post . Melven
1460 – # Post . neBstress
1461 – # Post . autoxer
1462 – # Post . RichardBrown
1463 – # Post . Valerianis
1464 – # Post . takumi86
1465 – # Post . Gravedigger1
1466 – # Post . MascaratumB
1467 – # Post . RandyC
1468 – # Post . RandyC
1469 – # Post . coban
1470 – # Post . coban
1471 – # Post . eas
1472 – # Post . Delta_V
1473 –
1474 –
1475 –
1476 –
1477 –
1478 –
1479 –
1480 –
. – - ,
. – - ,
NOTE: If I overlooked a post, PLEASE IM me and i’ll edit for correction.
. -
. -. . . . . . . . . . C L O S E D

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)

Bd7
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 06/12/2018 - 20:44
Posts: 6
Location: Australia

Would like to be added on list for 1, if still available. Smile

Pages