What if the “shade” was a cylinder rather than a cup?
The top surface of the “aluminum threaded shelf/base” could be left un-anodized to help reflect light.
This would save a bit of polycarbonate and eliminate the paint, but I’m not sure how it would affect the lantern’s strength or otherwise change its construction. Just a thought.
I like the idea of amber switch LEDs rather than green ones like the Q8.
Looking forward to the new photos. Hope you had a great trip!
Nice to see some progress! But what happend with the tint ramping option we discussed earlier? As far as I understood it, we would need at least 6 LEDs (and a new LED board) to make that work.
Also I thought that our priority is to create the “ultimate Latern”, not the cheapest.
And please add me for a second one.
Is it intended that the lantern is water resistant? The schematic shows an o-ring at the base of the diffuser, but nothing at the top or around the center screw
The cup shape makes it much stronger than just a cylinder type shade. i did test that shint base reflector idea originally, and the flat-white surface increases light reflection and reduces the hard-light glare and bad light distribution flaws of most factory lanterns i tested & used. (shiny or chromed reflectors cause to much glare & artifacts.
The cross section can;t really show it, but the shade would definitely need either one or two index locking notches at the head area to lock it from turning. (Same goes for the base)
That tint ramping is definitely in line to be added, as this cross section is just the design of this prototype being tested. All it would need is the change to six emitters, ( three 3000K & three 4000K LEDs) and the addition of a third wire lead from the driver.
Thanks for mentioning that to remind me i missed adding that to the drawing. i did forget to add the upper rubber gasket/o-ring to the head & the small o-ring to the center bolt. (next updated drawing will have those)
I was rather hoping for 3000K to 5000K, because that would cover everything I ever do with artificial light, from reading at night to workshop stuff, respectively.
I understand that LEDs aren’t always available with high CRI at the cooler colour temperatures, though, so no worries if that’s the case. High CRI is more important to me here
Ditto on that. 3000 to 5000 would keep far more people happy than 3000 to 4000, without losing anything or costing more I suspect. Look at the reports on the Zanflare T1 that have come in recently, thus far there seems to be a preference for the two extremes rather than for a level in between by those who have been playing with them.