So you can lock both on and off; which seems fine. Yeah, I thought the anodizing didn’t matter, thanks for confirming. Means that’s not a disadvantage of bare.
Just an FYI: the above only applies to lights that don’t have a PC board that the spring is soldered to. The PCB is isolated from the tail cap and completes the circuit between the negative terminal and the main body by making contact with the unanodized end of the battery tube.
Good example. You can see that the PC board isolates the circuit from the tailcap and you could sand off the anodizing and still have lockout.
Here’s a link to a pic from TK’s review. http://toykeeper.net/torches/emisar-d4/full/tailcap-inside.jpg
That ring of copper is what the body touches when you screw it on.
But back to the FW3A, I can’t imagine any of us are too worried about the finish as this will be a “user” rather than a shelf queen. :laughing:
Hmm, yeah it does. I do remember hearing that it was not so with another; maybe there’s some difference in the way the titanium one works, and that’s what I was hearing about. But yeah, I don’t think for a moment this won’t see some wear… might look better to not anodize and just polish scratches out as best as possible; regular anodizing isn’t immune anyway. I could go either way.
The tailcap might be able to do lockout by loosening it, but I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s not really meant to be unscrewed. It makes the clip loose, allows the tubes to slide relative to each other, and could still make contact by pushing the button hard enough to pop the rear PCB loose.
So… keep the tail end tightened up unless you’re swapping the button or clip or something. Change the battery at the front end instead.
Honestly, the finish doesn’t matter to me at all. Not a bit, especially if it won’t matter with regard to a physical lock out. (I’d prefer a physical lock out, given the option, by the way). So, I agree, let the designer decide.
My guess is that they crammed the anodising tank too full. Imagine lots of tubes standing in square formation, Current density i.e. ano. thickness varying dependent on how close to each neighbour. Hence “seams” at 90 degrees.
Agreed, that would be perfect, and so durable. But proper thick hard anodising is a slow cold expensive process, I doubt Lumintop would know how, even if the alloy is suitable. It would be nice if they could though, it would lift it into a different class.
Rarely seen on a torch despite claims, the only one I have with it is an Inova X1, but I’ve also seen it on Surefires and I think Zebralight. None of which are $30 torches.
The main thing is no gaudy colours, and no bead-blast please.