The measured lux in post #2 should be about 750 meters. This is the ANSI-FL1 rated distance which is not that practical in the real word, but is helpful for comparing lights.
Joe was saying you can expect a nice bright hotspot out to 250 to 375 meters.
Throw (135,000) x 4 then take the square root for the answer…. 135,000 x 4 = 540,000 The square root of 540,000 is 734.85 so that’s the Meters in throw from the 135Kcd lux reading. (for those that don’t know already) This means that at 735M the amount of light hitting a subject will be similar to the light falling on same subject from a full moon. I’ve always meant to use a matchbook with a phone number written inside, could someone read that phone number by the light from this thrower at that distance? I found it to be true when testing the GT at over a mile across the lake, you could indeed read text illuminated by the GT… even at 1.1 miles distant.
If you look at a full moon it just looks white, the eye’s pupil contracts and adjusts for the brightness, but if you set a camera for the light the moon reflects onto a subject on the ground then point the camera at the moon your image will be blown out. Similarly, even from over a mile away the GT is amazing to look at!
Here’s the light meter, illuminated by the GT from across the lake, showing half a lux….
Thanks Eraursis1984, it was one of those projects that sort of got out of hand. lol Been wearing it around my neck for over 5 years now. Rebuilt drivers for it multiple times, it now has a Nichia 219C at 5000K making some 711 lumens from the little 10440 cell.
Will be interesting to see what the finals are on this little miniaturized version of the GT, I don’t have the GT anymore so this will fill it’s shoes nicely.
No need to be sorry I was dumbass when trying to calculate, but thank you for clearing it up. Also thanks to jason and Texas ace for the insight and explanation.
Um, well, um, Rey’s brass pineapple and at the moment a Nitecore TM16 are both sitting here in stock form. I don’t tend to modify a Sinner. If that helps. My S1A Baton in copper as well as my Jet-II Pro in copper are unmodified. And my Godmes T01. The Sunwayman F10R is still stock too. And my Dad’s Thrunite Titanium, the little twisty, it’s stock. As is my Titanium Olight S1 Baton with my name on it, from the X6/X5 group buy. And my number 62 X6/X5 set are still in the box, put away. And of 200 lights that’s probably about it.
Even my Ti Core from MBI is modified, I put an Australian Opal in it for the switch button and inset a purple tritium vial inside the Opal.
But I won’t be modifying the Mini GT (unless of course it needs it. )
I think it’s looking great, don’t see why it would need anything as Lumintop is pretty much nailing it. Is changing the emitter to a more preferable tint considered a mod? I don’t ever worry about ordering the right tint as it’s usually so easy to change once the light gets here and is tested. I do like white, pure unadulterated white, no blue, no green, no yellow or orange or brown. Is that so wrong?