Thermal protection and a sane low voltage protection should balance the 3A U2....
It has entered the buying line...
Who will be the first to post a review?
Has anybody tried the P60 drop-ins mentioned by the OP yet? Are they worth it?
*drool*
I believe I NEED to have one of those! :)
I was hoping intl-outdoor would come with a great drop-in with different tints and good drivers. Ordered my first drop-in from manafont the other day. The popular ultrafire 3 mode. Hopefully i get lucky in the lottery from manafont and get i hard driven XM-L. Currently have one host on the way, and might be getting some Solarforce hosts. Highly considering their combo kit with their black L2P and L2T.
Anyway, I have some questions.
1. I have never owned a neutral or warmer tint led light. Highly considering to buy the NW drop in from intl outdoor. Would you guys say that the NW T6 3C is a little warmer compared to a "normal T6"? (I own a Trustfire C8 with XM-L T6).
2. What is the "normal T6"? Is there a "normal T6"? Because most XM-L lights these days use the T6. And I understand that normal T6 have a cool white light? But you can also get a warmer neutral version of it (T6 3C)?
3. I have seen the estimated output for the different XM-L leds here. From what I can read at 3A. The warm T3 7B should theoretically output about 715-780 lumen. The NW T6 3C should output 910-975. And the the U2 1B 975-1040. If I understand correctly that is the maxium lumen output on the LED if it gets that current. So if tailcap reading is 3A you would normaly subtract like 10-20% depending on the driver and tailcap??
4. Intl outdoor says 820lumen at 3a (for every led type). But depending on what type of led u get it with, there will be difference in light output right? The T3 is about 750 lumen@3a and the U2 is about 1000@3a. So the U2 should be about 25% brighter on 3A compared to the warm T3?
Hope someone can explain these things, and correct my view if it is wrong. Would be nice to know these things. :)
Cool, I wonder if they have tint 5B xml's out yet. Some good choices none the less.
Looks good, it seems like price is constan 23$ not depending on options?
Still, should know what driver this possesses…
Bad PWM = no use 
The driver looks like the one Ian posted some time ago, just that this is not V10 but V9X.
I Just asked Hank regarding the driver and was told it was custom done by their supplier and will provide more details in a couple of days.
For the price I will definitely get one. Waiting for funds though.
It makes sense, the U2 costs extra from the T6, same does the T6 3C, so does the T3 7B (even if it's inefficient)
Does anyone have a reference for any driver except the 7135 based ones (Nanjg) that can be used in the P60 drop-ins and are not direct drive.
That is an awesome drop in, if I didn't have so many I would buy it just for the driver. I am guessing since it has thermal protection it uses a Nanjg driver with a custom program. I don't know of any other budget drivers with that capability. The price is really good for what you are getting. I will patiently wait until someone reviews this.
I am sure it's not a Nanjg driver, since Feilong is a big driver maker, however an unproved one.
2.5A neutral .
One mode .
On . Off .
Simple .
3A NW ordered.
Will write a mini review as soon as I receive it.
Good Lad!! :)
... also you have to pull out the driver so we can see its guts!
I can't help but feel like Hank is listening to people like us. I'd be in for 2 of these, except I just (and I mean, 2 days ago just!) ordered 2 nw xmls and 2 3A drivers from Ric.
Looking forward to the guts/glory.
I am sure that he reads posting here often and probably even the makers on taobao of some of the stuff he offers. Otherwise information changes on the IO webshop would not coincident so many times with BLF postings. BLF is like a free market study for the smaller shops. It's not very surprising at all, when you think about it....
According to some statistics this website is visited by 355 Chinese IPs everyday.
Other interesting one is that 45% of the persons visiting this website then go to CPF, 22% go on google, rest well they go on DD, DX, KD.....
I've seen several times Selfbuilt's photos on taoboa.
Intl-outdoors gets interesting stuff.
I'll be glad to hear details about the driver. I bought one of the original batch of XinTD C8's that had the V10+ driver. There were some questions then about whether it would be any good. After several months, I have had no problems with mine and I have not seen any complaints about it.
What is the deal with this "thermal compound" that is supposed to replace foil and aluminum strips? Is that any good? There was a recent thread about something similar.
Copy that, I just have to get some 3C dropin and this seems to be ready from the start.
Might just be the first dropin, which I leave as is without modding :)
About that thermal compound, I think I will ditch it and use the basic copper adhesive like always.
You can get a very tight fit easily and it´s cheap yet conducts heat well.
Nice!
Ill be looking forward to hear some review about these new drivers when people get them! :)
Anyone here able to answer questions below? I posted them earlier in this thread.
EDIT: Wow, either I did not read the info properly earlier, or Intl outdoor added this info after reading my question here. If so, THANKS! :)
"Note:
At 3A due to smaller size of P60 flashlights and high constant current, a lot of heat will be produced, however the module features a temperature protection system.
Lumen estimations are OTF and pertain to the Cool white XM-L U2 1B. The XM-L U2 is rated 975 to 1040 lumens @ 3A by CREE.
The Neutral version (XM-L T6 3C) will be slightly less bright as the upper binned XM-L U2 1B.
The Warm white (T3 7B) version will be visibly less bright than the Cool & Neutral white due to the lower efficiency of the T3 bin, as with all Warm white XM-Ls."
That kinda ansers my 3. and 4. questions. The first ones are not that important. But people here could feel free to comment/answer on them.
1: 3C is a little less blue, I would say. My eyes did not see the DRY 3C as warm but as very white, neutral light. It was good IMO, best tint to me, yet.
2: Normal T6 is the Cool White tint (usually 1A?). If compared to warm or neutral, it looks a bit blue. If looked all by itself, it looks quite white. Comparing side to side reveals more.
3: Normally you subtract around 20% but also reflector and lens eat light. Use UCL lens to get a couple percents more. More important to me is the clear outlook of the lens :)
Tailcap can also have some resistance and driver has some efficiency. Only real way to know lumens is to use integrating sphere to get some reference what is actually coming out.
4: 25% difference in LUMENS is far more than difference by eye. You need about 4x the amount of light for your eye to perceive it as twice as much light.
To be short: a difference like 700-750lm is really "nothing". Very hard to see that kind of differences if not carefully compared side by side.
I would say, that if you want most light to play with, get U2. For very nice white, neutral light, get 3C and if you are an incan lover or like yellow tints or better color rendering, get the warm one.