New P60 Dropin from Intl O with Copper LED Base

I am sure it's not a Nanjg driver, since Feilong is a big driver maker, however an unproved one.

2.5A neutral .

One mode .

On . Off .

Simple .

3A NW ordered.

Will write a mini review as soon as I receive it.

Good Lad!! :)

... also you have to pull out the driver so we can see its guts!

I can't help but feel like Hank is listening to people like us. I'd be in for 2 of these, except I just (and I mean, 2 days ago just!) ordered 2 nw xmls and 2 3A drivers from Ric.

Looking forward to the guts/glory.

I am sure that he reads posting here often and probably even the makers on taobao of some of the stuff he offers. Otherwise information changes on the IO webshop would not coincident so many times with BLF postings. BLF is like a free market study for the smaller shops. It's not very surprising at all, when you think about it....

According to some statistics this website is visited by 355 Chinese IPs everyday.

Other interesting one is that 45% of the persons visiting this website then go to CPF, 22% go on google, rest well they go on DD, DX, KD.....

I've seen several times Selfbuilt's photos on taoboa.

Intl-outdoors gets interesting stuff.

I'll be glad to hear details about the driver. I bought one of the original batch of XinTD C8's that had the V10+ driver. There were some questions then about whether it would be any good. After several months, I have had no problems with mine and I have not seen any complaints about it.

What is the deal with this "thermal compound" that is supposed to replace foil and aluminum strips? Is that any good? There was a recent thread about something similar.

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/6926

Copy that, I just have to get some 3C dropin and this seems to be ready from the start.

Might just be the first dropin, which I leave as is without modding :)

About that thermal compound, I think I will ditch it and use the basic copper adhesive like always.

You can get a very tight fit easily and it´s cheap yet conducts heat well.

Nice!

Ill be looking forward to hear some review about these new drivers when people get them! :)

Anyone here able to answer questions below? I posted them earlier in this thread.


EDIT: Wow, either I did not read the info properly earlier, or Intl outdoor added this info after reading my question here. If so, THANKS! :)

"Note:

At 3A due to smaller size of P60 flashlights and high constant current, a lot of heat will be produced, however the module features a temperature protection system.

Lumen estimations are OTF and pertain to the Cool white XM-L U2 1B. The XM-L U2 is rated 975 to 1040 lumens @ 3A by CREE.

The Neutral version (XM-L T6 3C) will be slightly less bright as the upper binned XM-L U2 1B.

The Warm white (T3 7B) version will be visibly less bright than the Cool & Neutral white due to the lower efficiency of the T3 bin, as with all Warm white XM-Ls."


That kinda ansers my 3. and 4. questions. The first ones are not that important. But people here could feel free to comment/answer on them.

1: 3C is a little less blue, I would say. My eyes did not see the DRY 3C as warm but as very white, neutral light. It was good IMO, best tint to me, yet.

2: Normal T6 is the Cool White tint (usually 1A?). If compared to warm or neutral, it looks a bit blue. If looked all by itself, it looks quite white. Comparing side to side reveals more.

3: Normally you subtract around 20% but also reflector and lens eat light. Use UCL lens to get a couple percents more. More important to me is the clear outlook of the lens :)

Tailcap can also have some resistance and driver has some efficiency. Only real way to know lumens is to use integrating sphere to get some reference what is actually coming out.

4: 25% difference in LUMENS is far more than difference by eye. You need about 4x the amount of light for your eye to perceive it as twice as much light.

To be short: a difference like 700-750lm is really "nothing". Very hard to see that kind of differences if not carefully compared side by side.

I would say, that if you want most light to play with, get U2. For very nice white, neutral light, get 3C and if you are an incan lover or like yellow tints or better color rendering, get the warm one.

Thanks for the answers! Just what i wanted to know. :)

While you answered my question I edited my previous post. I think intl outdoor added some info. Or I was just blind earlier.. :p

I was leaning towards neutral white. But i really love the old warm incandescent lights. But more light is also fun!

Yeah yeah.. I know. I should buy all three.. :p

Ill try to wait for some reviews before ordering.. Probably gonna buy the NW. And then maybe the warm one.. :p and then... hehe..

This looks like a super drop-in! It would be ever better if we can just piggyback some 7135's for higher current.

All that this drop-in needs is an operating voltage of 2.7v - 9v, so that you can use either with 1 x 18650 or 2 x 18650

Thnx Hank!

3A is enough on a P60 dropin.... and send me some wine. ;-)

After thinking about it in a while, pulled the trigger for a 3A NW dropin.

How did you get those infos?

Statscrop,but might be outdated and inaccurate.

Joel

Thanks. Probably good enough for estimates.

Anyone recieved theirs?

First impressions?