So I did all this with mine and they all work. They must be a pretty high current cell to run a Q8 on one cell. I’m not feeling quite so bad about it now.
My Battery-Resistance-Voltmeter-Internal-Impedance-Meter-LCD-Rechargeable-SM8124A arrived today and, using it, I took measurements of the six LiitoKala Factory 30Q batteries (Table 1), and six 30Q batteries purchased from Orbtronics (Table 2). The tabulated data indicate two things: (1) The LiitoKala Factory batteries are not 30Qs, and (2) the SM8124A resistance meter (a) provides consistent internal resistance readings that are reasonable, and (b) is a valid tool for comparing batteries.
Table 1 - LiitoKala Factory Store 30Q
Internal Resistance Measurements (mΩ)
Cell
Trial One
Trial Two
Trial Three
Trial Four
Avg
1
27.8
29.0
28.9
29.1
28.5
2
25.5
25.5
25.4
25.4
25.5
3
25.5
25.4
25.5
26.6
25.5
4
27.7
27.8
28.0
28.0
27.9
5
26.3
26.2
26.3
26.2
26.3
6
25.2
25.2
25.2
25.3
25.2
Table 2 - Orbtronics 30Q
Internal Resistance Measurements (mΩ)
Cell
Trial One
Trial Two
Trial Three
Trial Four
Avg
1
11.4
11.4
11.4
11.3
11.4
2
11.4
11.5
11.3
11.4
11.4
3
11.4
11.5
11.4
11.3
11.4
4
11.4
11.4
11.4
11.4
11.4
5
11.7
11.7
11.7
11.9
11.8
6
11.5
11.4
11.4
11.3
11.4
A reading was taken for each battery sequentially in each trial. The SM8124A advertises an accuracy of 0.1 mΩ for this measurement range.
Ashley, thanks for the introduction. Should your career as Lii CEO flounder, you certainly could have a second career as a model. I, for one, believe everything I read on the internet.
Thank you for the comparison! Fortunately, most of my lights are under 8 amps. Although, I have two D4s (Nichia and Cree). For whatever reason, I can't get more than 10A with real 30Qs, VTC5s, 25Rs, 20Rs, so these fakes don't deprive me of much with the current collection. Lol
It's great to have additional ammunition with test data above!
I received mine and they were clearly fake so I filed a dispute through Aliexpress using the positive end of the cell as evidence and describing the lack of serial number. Aliexpress stepped in and agreed with the seller because the seller apparently provided a “authorization file / purchase invoice from the brand owner” (Samsung). What should I do to provide more evidence? Should I remove the wrapper or would that make it worse?
Is there some unevenness in the wrapping that could lead to a conclusion of them being not from factory?
Can you measure internal resistance and compare with other good cells? Even of a different model….
In general, unwrapping shouldn’t hurt the proof in any way other than destroying evidence (i.e. wrap itself).
But it may affect the resolution - you won’t be able to return the items to the seller.
Oh, any photo/video of unwrapped cell in a charger will be less trustworthy unless you find some clearly visible markings on the cells.
I speak about the return because that’s what the seller asked for in my case.
I agreed on condition that the seller pays for shipping. They system does not allow such resolution, so I only sent a message with such requirement.
My case is still open and will probably be settled next Monday.
It’s really too bad this store apparently had to sell fakes. If they just sold the LG cell, it would have been a good price for a decent cell, and nobody would complain or feel ripped-off.
If someone is going to sell fakes, the least they should do is fill a 18650 can with sand, and put a crap 200mAh 14500 Ultrafire in it. Otherwise, it seems like they’re just not putting in the effort.
I’ve got one at home that is hilarious, it’s labelled Ultrofite, it is very lightweight with a ridiculous 4000+ rating, claims to be protected yet is no longer than an unprotected cell, and has the familiar red and silver wrapping. It came bundled with a noname brand zoomie. I must take a couple of pictures and post them for a laugh. I don’t know whether they spelt the name wrong deliberately, but why bother, it’s not like there would be any consequences.
So I wanted these cells for average light use, so they seem to fit the bill
BUT I did want cells to run my Sinner triple Nichia, my 2 late models Zebras (Mk 3 and 4) AND my new D4 that came at the same time.
Now I am wondering…I have 18 of these sitting here
I am going to email the seller…
Edit, they want a video of my testing procedure? wth
PP dispute
The Zebras should be fine, if these truly are 10A cells. I have both the SC600w MkIV HI and the SC600w MkIV Plus. The HI will only draw about 4-5 amps, at most. The Plus will draw more, but at most 6 amps on a fresh cell and 8 amps on a low cell (more current is needed to boost it up to required voltage from a low cell).
I use Sanyo NCR18650-GA cells in both. They’re 10A cells, and they work fine. If I know I’ll be using the Plus on max for a lot of time, I’ll stick in a Sony VTC6 cell, but it’s not really necessary.
As for your other lights, they may require something higher than 10A, or at least benefit from it. Chances are that anything using a FET driver (like the D4) will simply run a bit dimmer, but not actually use more than 10A.