To my advanced organic :-D photon detectors the tint of the LH351D in my close range 30° TIR S2+ flashlight is just about perfect. I wouldn't say it has the slightest hint of any tint (just checked it right now); 0K, maybe a gnat's ass of red but almost unnoticeable.
I will take some red any day of the week, Green is what I can’t stand. I can’t even use 219C’s anymore due to the green hue. Once you have seen it, you can’t un-see it. :weary:
Checked it again against another wall: yes, very very slight rosy tint, more noticeable in high mode (3A) around the “corona”. But it's subtle, as you may understand. If I were to be telling this to some philistine in these matters fellow, he/she would probably say “WTF?”.
However, not all emitters are equal and slight tint differences may be found among them.
First got my 47s Quark, grexed about because of the green tint, I was looking, “Nah, doesn’t look ‘green’…”, expecting something like a true green XP-E or something.
Then I see some nice neutral tints, with not a hint of green, got used to them, saw my Quark… ugh.
Spent a small fortune on 2 of them plus a shorty tube, and I haven’t even had a cell in any of them in at least a coupla years.
If these are just over 4000k and are rosy, they sound like the next best thing though! My biggest worry was they might be green. Since they appear to be rosy instead, I am now at a point of seeing how much money I can spare lol.
What I meant was the reel, what was on the reel? The 3000k or the 4000k ones?
I also don't know if I get this right, but the forward voltage is higher than other LEDs but its more efficient than 219c by about 30%? What does that mean?
Does it mean that it requires more voltage to turn on, yet it uses less energy once it does so?
If I am reading that correctly, the voltage of the battery will affect the duration of the flashlight's usage. As the battery power drops in voltage, it will stop working before a lower fV led would, but it will take longer to get there. Am I stating that correctly?
There's a direct relationship between battery voltage and state of charge.
In this particular case, a relatively higher Vf led won't stop working before a lower Vf one. For unregulated drivers this just means current reduces, Vf does too… and the torch keeps producing a good deal of light anyway. In case of unregulated (MOSFET and such) drivers actually higher Vf leds result in longer runtimes and higher working efficiency. For regulated drivers it's a bit the other way round, keep in mind that for any given current higher Vf means higher power output, with pretty constant efficiency in this case.
I expressed interest here (#40 on your list). I don’t mean to rush anything but I don’t know who’s now in charge for the next step. Are you now waiting for payment from me or do I need to wait for further instructions via PM from you before I send the money? As there were some discussions about Paypal fees (commission, currency exchange, bla bla) some pages before I don’t know if your prices in the first post of this thread are the final prices that just need to be added up. Can I use PayPal for goods and services or are your prices calculated for “friends and family” only? Any hint would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!