Yeah, it’s easy to get pens for Parker refills but difficult for those lame old style thin refills
I thought there must be adaptors for that but I couldn’t find one
And on that Fura blade I used a belt grinder on job with a maybe 20cm wheel, I can measure it later
I have no work rest that’s why I couldn’t make a straight hollow grind with a flat ground tip
The finest belt I have is 80 grit but after a good polish it’s not rough anymore (even though I’d prefer something like 200 at least)
I guess I’ll stonewash it later, I just must resist to grind it again to reduce some of the mistakes I made
From my I learned job that the trick is to stop when you can’t make it any better instead of continuing to make it worse
Now the blade swings much better than when it was a folding prybar
- adjustable/removable thumb studs (legal carry for example in Germany),
deep carry pocket clip.
I’m not a big fan of the bead blasted finish on the blade so sooner or later I’ll give it a satin or a stone washed finish. I would prefer full G10 handle scales because in my opinion the exposed liners at the end of the handle are only design elements.
Well, I think jig is the wrong term, it’s more a holder and a grind stop
I had to do it freehand as there’s no workrest mount on our belt sander
I like that Ganzo with the SOG OEM pattern, too, but I wish they would have left more G10 where the pinky finger grabs it
I get the point to leave the lanyard hole this way, if I’d make scales I’d only leave away the material at the butt though
The clip would have to become as thin as behind the circle, this way it’s looking too bulky
I guess I’d prefer an F-753M1 or a small version of the F7621 if they ever make one
Hi Isti - I noticed recently on your blog that someone commented about a Ti/CF Decepticon 2 clone with Damascus blade. You don’t happen to know where he got it from do you? My mate is after one.
I’d say the one above is better than 8Cr13MoV/AUS-8, maybe on par with SRM’s 12C27 or better
The D2 on my Malyshev Gnome is only bettered by the ZDP189 on my Caly 3 and the S35VN on my Vespa Neon
A couple of new full sized frame-lock Sanrenmu flippers arrived to GB with Sandvik 12C27 blade and Beta Lock safety switch / lock-bar limiter. As I know they also run on bearings. So the only thing you will miss is the lock-bar insert.
Freehand indeed, the clamp is only there to get the right spot where the grind ends and the ricasso begins
I have to use a belt grinder everyday, even though I very rarely grind metal
I’ve made 2 “test pieces” before grinding that blade but it was easier than I thought
It’s not 100% perfect and I only have a P80 belt which is rather coarse on steel but I’ve seen worse grinds already
Those cutouts you could probably also cut them on a bandsaw and a fresh metal sawblade to get it square but for the fine work I’d use diamond files
Maybe a handsaw or a diamond wheel on a dremel tool would work as well but I guess it would take some practice to get the cutouts in the right deepness and distance to each other
For jimpings you can use hand checkering files (better before hardening) but they only work well without a curve and they are rather expensive (when I was looking into the topic they started at around $60 iirc)
Edit: I think I have to thin the blade on my Real Steel Griffin soon
Such a great knife but the blade is just a tad too thick
No hollow grind on that one though as long as I couldn’t use a 2m benchstone