What blade did you EDC today?

@Isti I’ve seen your Ti pen and I’m wondering if there’s any titanium bolt pen where I can use the thin refills.

Or is there some kind of adaptor available?

Thing is I don’t really need a standard pen but I often use a silver pen on job to mark leather or EVA foam before cutting.

These refills are the old thin style and it’s always difficult to find a good pen for them :frowning:

My titanium tac-pen uses standard Parker style refills (you know the thicker ones).

What did you use for the hollow regrind on that Fura kwaiken? The result looks nice.

Yeah, it’s easy to get pens for Parker refills but difficult for those lame old style thin refills
I thought there must be adaptors for that but I couldn’t find one

And on that Fura blade I used a belt grinder on job with a maybe 20cm wheel, I can measure it later
I have no work rest that’s why I couldn’t make a straight hollow grind with a flat ground tip
The finest belt I have is 80 grit but after a good polish it’s not rough anymore (even though I’d prefer something like 200 at least)

I guess I’ll stonewash it later, I just must resist to grind it again to reduce some of the mistakes I made
From my I learned job that the trick is to stop when you can’t make it any better instead of continuing to make it worse :wink:

Now the blade swings much better than when it was a folding prybar :stuck_out_tongue:

Did you use some sort of jig for grinding?
Yes, it’s always good to know when to stop. I learnt that on my own. :smiley:

Ganzo F713M today. It also begs for modding. :slight_smile:

Can you give an opinion about this new back lock Ganzo?

Sure! What I like:

- EDC friendly size,

- excellent fit and finish,

- solid lock-up without any blade play,

- perfectly centered blade,

- adjustable/removable thumb studs (legal carry for example in Germany),

  • deep carry pocket clip.

I’m not a big fan of the bead blasted finish on the blade so sooner or later I’ll give it a satin or a stone washed finish. I would prefer full G10 handle scales because in my opinion the exposed liners at the end of the handle are only design elements.

Well, I think jig is the wrong term, it’s more a holder and a grind stop

I had to do it freehand as there’s no workrest mount on our belt sander

I like that Ganzo with the SOG OEM pattern, too, but I wish they would have left more G10 where the pinky finger grabs it
I get the point to leave the lanyard hole this way, if I’d make scales I’d only leave away the material at the butt though

The clip would have to become as thin as behind the circle, this way it’s looking too bulky

I guess I’d prefer an F-753M1 or a small version of the F7621 if they ever make one

It would be fastastic to see some land-sanrenmu knives with frame lock with disc, replaceable frame lock, ball bearings and… a flipper :slight_smile:
A step more.

?? You mean steel insert like on titanium folders :question:

Hi Isti - I noticed recently on your blog that someone commented about a Ti/CF Decepticon 2 clone with Damascus blade. You don’t happen to know where he got it from do you? My mate is after one.

Paul

Hi Paul,
As I remember he got it from DHgate.

Cheers Isti

Yeah my mate had seen one on there - he was hoping to get it a bit cheaper.

Thanks buddy


It seems that d2 steel in fura knives is not good. Or it is not d2 or is a d2 with a very bad heat treatment. Al least tested in a pair of models.

I’d say the one above is better than 8Cr13MoV/AUS-8, maybe on par with SRM’s 12C27 or better
The D2 on my Malyshev Gnome is only bettered by the ZDP189 on my Caly 3 and the S35VN on my Vespa Neon

A couple of new full sized frame-lock Sanrenmu flippers arrived to GB with Sandvik 12C27 blade and Beta Lock safety switch / lock-bar limiter. As I know they also run on bearings. So the only thing you will miss is the lock-bar insert. :wink:

Freehand? You must have steady hands! :+1:
How would you cut notches like these (GreenThorn F95) into a flipper tab?

I’m EDCing my slightly modded TwoSun TS85 Tank today:

Freehand indeed, the clamp is only there to get the right spot where the grind ends and the ricasso begins
I have to use a belt grinder everyday, even though I very rarely grind metal
I’ve made 2 “test pieces” before grinding that blade but it was easier than I thought
It’s not 100% perfect and I only have a P80 belt which is rather coarse on steel but I’ve seen worse grinds already :stuck_out_tongue:

Those cutouts you could probably also cut them on a bandsaw and a fresh metal sawblade to get it square but for the fine work I’d use diamond files
Maybe a handsaw or a diamond wheel on a dremel tool would work as well but I guess it would take some practice to get the cutouts in the right deepness and distance to each other
For jimpings you can use hand checkering files (better before hardening) but they only work well without a curve and they are rather expensive (when I was looking into the topic they started at around $60 iirc)

Edit: I think I have to thin the blade on my Real Steel Griffin soon
Such a great knife but the blade is just a tad too thick
No hollow grind on that one though as long as I couldn’t use a 2m benchstone :wink:

Sorry, can you tell me more about the Fura Gear mini knife? I’ve just seen it on your photo. I’m don’t know much about knives, but that caught my attention!
Thank you in advance :+1:

I guess a bandsaw would be the best to do that. Since my choice of power tools are quite limited I’ll try to cut the notches with a dremel and a handsaw after some practice. :slight_smile:

Why don’t you try to add a scandi edge to your Griffin?