Hi guys!
I hadnât touched a light (other than using them) in a while and got the itch to mod something. First off sorry for the low res pics, having a flagship phone with an amazing camera is no longer something my wife and I care to partake in, to much more important stuff in life than keeping up with Samsung / Apple⌠Hints why I have to take pics outdoors lol.
So first is my OLD 47âs quark, this light was my EDC for YEARS till the driver stopped working, well I lost my S41 EDC I had replaced the quark with in a tree a few weeks ago (BTW Iâm an arborist now, fun career change) so I had to order a replacement and itâs on the slow boat so needing a suitable EDC and wanting to revive the trusty old girl I built this
Looking elegant as ever lol
Specs are shaved down 20mm driver with bistro, N219b 4000k emitter on noctigon shaved to 14mm, tail spring bypass (no driver spring, just a button contact). Best part; no more bright âpre-flashâ at power up in moonlight mode!
That was the most recently put together one, this next one is the first light I had built in probably 2 years. This was a rebuild after the 22 to 17mm driver adapter PCB I originally used gave out.
My JAX Z1, now sporting a real 22mm driver from MTN running bistro with an SST-40 6500k (definitely not my tint choice but shear lumens are fun), mcpcb soldered to pill.
Next was just to see if I could, another old old 47âs (again from back before they spelled out 47âs), this time a Preon P1 that had lived in the ash tray of an 02 Subaru that hasnât ran since 2015 sitting in the sun with an alkileak in it⌠Managed to clean it up inside first then I swapped a xpl onto the tiny 10mm MCPCB then thatâs where things got complicated, the stock driver circuitry remains but controlling is it the low voltage variant 13A wired dead bug style onto the factory boost driver. As was the original itâs AAA primary / NiMH only but atleast itâs setup with a usable UI with 3 well spaced modes and no blink crap. As far as the technical aspect itâs without a doubt one of my most advanced builds just cause of size alone, the wires to the pins on the dead bugged ATTiny are iterally only a few mm long each.
Note the red dot is on the glass, not the reflector. It was an indexing mark I just havenât alcoholed off yet.
Next I finally replaced the P60 on my AR15 with a convoy M2. Itâs a basic build with an XPL, dual (and bypassed) springs at the head and tail for shock resistance and my same old gun light UI (single mode unless you double click faster than 0.1s then it comes on in a variable 18-22khz strobe)
Forgot to take a pic of this one, Iâll edit it in later, maybe, if I remember to get to it.
Finally, like the Preon above this was another âjust cause I canâ build. Olight S10 triple with 2 XPL for brightness and a Nichia 219b to add some CRI with diffuser film on the glass plus a wide, frosted optic to try to mix the beam as much as possible. Unmodded driver as I didnât have any complaints about the UI and was more concerned about usable runtime than brightness plus that allows it to run safely off 123 primaries still, something not typically possible in a hot-rodded triple.
On the modding topic I have a few more builds in my queue:
I need to rebuild my old Sinner Al custom host, it hasnât ran for a year now but with a little help from Sulman Iâve managed to source a new Judco switch and plan to go to a single emitter behind a TIR once that switch gets in (really had to do some begging to digikey to let me order a single one and they canât give me a tentative date when I might expect it. Had I needed 5000pcs theyâd be here in a week lol).
I also have my lumintop SD10 BLF edition on my bench now, itâs become a favorite work light of mine and in my work (tree climbing) when I do need a light I usually need a heavy flooder so itâs being converted to a triple with a ledil CUTE triple and one of those 35mm triple XP noctigon with 3x XPLâs. I donât mind the UI so my plan is to play with the stock driver at first to retain the battery options, if a resistor mod doesnât net me enough of a current boost Iâll consider replacing it once itâs running.