Correct, I only got the TA prototype drivers for this light a few weeks ago and the production samples tested like 2 weeks ago.
Makes a pretty big difference with ~9-10A vs 6A.
VOB’s numbers line up pretty well with mine as well, so they should be pretty close.
I have not tested a de-domed version of the light with the TA driver yet that I can remember so the only numbers we have there are from VOB. I guessing 750kcd on the low side.
It will be a bit lower then VOB since he was using a 6000k emitter and meter bias causes it to read higher.
The light I tested yesterday was on the new Sphere calibration as well and using a Dr meter for the lux numbers.
At full brightness, that is about right, although it is direct driver so it will be dropping brightness as time goes along.
Remember the above estimate were till LVP, aka the batteries were dead.
Some basic math says we have a total of ~6000ma with both cell carriers filled with 30Q’s.
If we are pulling 9A, then on paper the cells should last around 40 mins.
Although in the real world with the power dropping 20 minutes at turbo before you notice it dimming is a good guess and then keep running for another hour+or so until it hits LVP.
Except 90% of the people won’t want to try and open up the light. I would just like a swapable head and not have to get out strap wrenches and struggle with it. Was hoping for the same thing with the BLF Lantern. Multiple battery tubes and carriers are redundant
I don’t agree. It all depends on how you advertise it. If you advertise it as a light with an interchangeable light engine then most people will want to be able to change it out for a different light engine.
As I said it was partly designed for this reason.
And if I’m honest we (as GT team) and mostly myself let that feature slip away. If we had communicated that feature to lumintop from the beginning we might already have a xhp70.2 light engine. But that’s the problem with these projects it’s not that easy.
I can’t recall if the light engine was as tight on the reflector housing as the bezel was?
About the same. The bezel has lots of friction, but the light engine is just “tight”. Once you break the initial tension, it just spins off. You don’t have to install it super tight, either.
When you seperate the upper and lower head it makes the bezel much easier. I can take my light apart completely by hand.
Everyone buying a kit will still have to take the light apart to do the emitter swap so I don’t understand not selling a complete light engine.
Yes, they are silly both silly tight, better then being glued but still, just silly tight.
this is the only reason I didn’t push a new light engine, I already know of quite a few people that can’t open their lights at all and having opened a few myself, it ain’t easy and almost impossible in some cases. Not something I like doing.
I modded a few of these last week with the mcpcb’s I had and I offered everyone that sent the lights in the chance to save some money by opening the lights themselves. All of them paid me to open it.
I am going to need to get a better strap wrench if that keeps up.