Lumintop should make just a complete head available so we can use our existing carriers and tubes. That would help keep the cost down a bit.
I was thinking of just the lower head, the light engine. Then your not paying for the expensive reflector, etc… and the shipping box would be much smaller and lighter.
Except 90% of the people won’t want to try and open up the light. I would just like a swapable head and not have to get out strap wrenches and struggle with it. Was hoping for the same thing with the BLF Lantern. Multiple battery tubes and carriers are redundant
Except 90% of the people won’t want to try and open up the light. I would just like a swapable head and not have to get out strap wrenches and struggle with it. Was hoping for the same thing with the BLF Lantern. Multiple battery tubes and carriers are redundant
I don’t agree. It all depends on how you advertise it. If you advertise it as a light with an interchangeable light engine then most people will want to be able to change it out for a different light engine.
As I said it was partly designed for this reason.
And if I’m honest we (as GT team) and mostly myself let that feature slip away. If we had communicated that feature to lumintop from the beginning we might already have a xhp70.2 light engine. But that’s the problem with these projects it’s not that easy.
I can’t recall if the light engine was as tight on the reflector housing as the bezel was?
I can’t recall if the light engine was as tight on the reflector housing as the bezel was?
About the same. The bezel has lots of friction, but the light engine is just “tight”. Once you break the initial tension, it just spins off. You don’t have to install it super tight, either.
When you seperate the upper and lower head it makes the bezel much easier. I can take my light apart completely by hand.
Everyone buying a kit will still have to take the light apart to do the emitter swap so I don’t understand not selling a complete light engine.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I can’t recall if the light engine was as tight on the reflector housing as the bezel was?
Yes, they are silly both silly tight, better then being glued but still, just silly tight.
this is the only reason I didn’t push a new light engine, I already know of quite a few people that can’t open their lights at all and having opened a few myself, it ain’t easy and almost impossible in some cases. Not something I like doing.
I modded a few of these last week with the mcpcb’s I had and I offered everyone that sent the lights in the chance to save some money by opening the lights themselves. All of them paid me to open it.
I am going to need to get a better strap wrench if that keeps up.
I think a light engine replacement would be nice, depending on the price. Include a nice little plastic case like for a camera lens to keep the one(s) not in use protected and clean.
Once you get the light apart once, theres no need to tighten it up as much as it is from factory
I can’t recall if the light engine was as tight on the reflector housing as the bezel was?
Yes, they are silly both silly tight, better then being glued but still, just silly tight.
this is the only reason I didn’t push a new light engine, I already know of quite a few people that can’t open their lights at all and having opened a few myself, it ain’t easy and almost impossible in some cases. Not something I like doing.
I modded a few of these last week with the mcpcb’s I had and I offered everyone that sent the lights in the chance to save some money by opening the lights themselves. All of them paid me to open it.
I am going to need to get a better strap wrench if that keeps up.
Which is exactly why having an entire swapable head would be great. ie: a GT70 minus the battery tube and carriers. Personally, I won’t buy it unless just the complete head is available.
Lumintop should make just a complete head available so we can use our existing carriers and tubes. That would help keep the cost down a bit.
I was thinking of just the lower head, the light engine. Then your not paying for the expensive reflector, etc… and the shipping box would be much smaller and lighter.
Except 90% of the people won’t want to try and open up the light. I would just like a swapable head and not have to get out strap wrenches and struggle with it. Was hoping for the same thing with the BLF Lantern. Multiple battery tubes and carriers are redundant
What your saying ONLY makes sense if the head was much cheaper than the whole light. But that is not the case.
If a complete head is still 90% of the total price you would only be saving 10%. It makes more sense to have 2 complete lights then you don’t have to swap anything. Maybe you could even sell the tube and carriers.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I can’t recall if the light engine was as tight on the reflector housing as the bezel was?
Yes, they are silly both silly tight, better then being glued but still, just silly tight.
this is the only reason I didn’t push a new light engine, I already know of quite a few people that can’t open their lights at all and having opened a few myself, it ain’t easy and almost impossible in some cases. Not something I like doing.
I modded a few of these last week with the mcpcb’s I had and I offered everyone that sent the lights in the chance to save some money by opening the lights themselves. All of them paid me to open it.
I am going to need to get a better strap wrench if that keeps up.
Which is exactly why having an entire swapable head would be great. ie: a GT70 minus the battery tube and carriers. Personally, I won’t buy it unless just the complete head is available.
Yes, we talked about this for a little bit but basically the savings of not having the battery tube and carriers would be so small it would not be worth it.
They would have to either order mis-matched quantities of the heads and battery tubes or be left with a bunch of extra battery tubes they can’t use.
And the buyer would end up with 1 and a half lights while saving less then the cost of shipping. It is inevitable that many would later want to buy another batter tube and carriers as well further complicating matters.
Yeah, to me a ‘head only’ option is just silly. And personally, I can’t see many people interested in that high priced option. Just get the whole light.
However, a light engine option makes sense for those who can’t solder. Cause either way, conversion kit or ‘light engine option’…….. the light engine has to be taken off.
Just make it crystal clear (as has already been done) that it can/might be difficult to remove the light engine initially.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
Maybe I will do a video on the best and easiest way to take the light apart.
Might be a good idea….. ..
Maybe I have just been lucky… but so far I have not had much of a problem loosening the light engines on any of mine. Just put those bad boys in a properly padded vice & twist.
The bezels were a bit more difficult…. . .
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Maybe I will do a video on the best and easiest way to take the light apart.
Having opened ~8 of them so far, I have not found such a method, just brute force and luck of the draw.
I had 2 that opened fairly easy (aka, I did it by myself).
The others varied from “I did it by myself but dead lifting felt easier”
To needing 2 Texans straining to get that sucker open, Mere normal men may not of emerged victorious.
Proper strap wrench technique is the only thing I have found that helps. we had 3 guys cranking away on one of these at one point before I found my strap wrench and there is no way in heck it is opening opening up.
Still took 2 of us to get it open with the wrench (1 to man the wrench and the other to hold everything in place to it didn’t slip out of the vice and ruin everything).
It is not impossible but be prepared for a struggle.
I don’t want people spending the money on the conversion kit only to not be able to use it. I would recommend opening your light now before placing the order.
I passed on the first release of the BLF GT, but now I’m really looking forward to the new GT70. That said, as long as the price is under $150 US dollars I’ll buy one.. I have plenty of Samsung 30Q button and flattop cells to accommodate this monster. I didn’t request any other options. Maybe I should have?
I passed on the first release of the BLF GT, but now I’m really looking forward to the new GT70. That said, as long as the price is under $150 US dollars I’ll buy one.. I have plenty of Samsung 30Q button and flattop cells to accommodate this monster. I didn’t request any other options. Maybe I should have?
The price is listed in the OP, it is $250 at this point but I am sure we will reach at least 100 signups which drops the price down to $240.
The price will go down more with more sign up’s but we can’t know for sure how many will sign up.
I passed on the first release of the BLF GT, but now I’m really looking forward to the new GT70. That said, as long as the price is under $150 US dollars I’ll buy one.. I have plenty of Samsung 30Q button and flattop cells to accommodate this monster. I didn’t request any other options. Maybe I should have?
Sadly my friend…. the wish for a $150.oo price tag seem but a wishful dream……
Below is from the 2nd post………..
I am told the planned retail Price for the complete light will be $299.99
The group buy pricing will be setup in Tiers depending on how many lights are sold.
1-50 lights = $250
51-100 lights = $240
101-200 lights = $230
201-300 lights = $225
301-400 lights = $220
If we managed to get more then that I could talk to them about further discounts.
Free shipping is included for : USA, CANADA, WESTEUROPE, ASIA
add 20 USD for: Australia, New Zealand, part East Europe (contact Neal to find out about your exact country)
add 40 USD for: Serbia, Ukraine, Uruguay, Crotia, Saudi Arabia, south Africa
The shipping method will be selected by Lumintop to have the best chance of being delivered in a timely fashion.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
I passed on the first release of the BLF GT, but now I’m really looking forward to the new GT70. That said, as long as the price is under $150 US dollars I’ll buy one.. I have plenty of Samsung 30Q button and flattop cells to accommodate this monster. I didn’t request any other options. Maybe I should have?
For a light of that size and with all the components inside to allow this thing to run at the targeted specs, Lumintop would be losing money for every light they sell at the price you want. Even at the $240 price, it’s hard to imagine there’s much profit after shipping given the small quantities they are making.
I would have gladly waited for the this 2nd release. The first release was NW with semi yellow tint. If the new version is CW I would have sprung for 4 of them. Making 4 new versions as opposed to 2 original NW and 2 updated versions. Pricing is not concern. Rather time of wait, potential damage during transit, etc…
Except 90% of the people won’t want to try and open up the light. I would just like a swapable head and not have to get out strap wrenches and struggle with it. Was hoping for the same thing with the BLF Lantern. Multiple battery tubes and carriers are redundant
I actually meant to say reflector but typed lens. I see TA’s answer already.
I don’t agree. It all depends on how you advertise it. If you advertise it as a light with an interchangeable light engine then most people will want to be able to change it out for a different light engine.
As I said it was partly designed for this reason.
And if I’m honest we (as GT team) and mostly myself let that feature slip away. If we had communicated that feature to lumintop from the beginning we might already have a xhp70.2 light engine. But that’s the problem with these projects it’s not that easy.
I can’t recall if the light engine was as tight on the reflector housing as the bezel was?
1x GT70 NW
1x conversion kit NW
Maybe spare reflector
1x spare lens
8× 30Q cells
1x GT70 NW
Maybe spare reflector
1x spare lens
8× 30Q cells
About the same. The bezel has lots of friction, but the light engine is just “tight”. Once you break the initial tension, it just spins off. You don’t have to install it super tight, either.
When you seperate the upper and lower head it makes the bezel much easier. I can take my light apart completely by hand.
Everyone buying a kit will still have to take the light apart to do the emitter swap so I don’t understand not selling a complete light engine.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Yes, they are silly both silly tight, better then being glued but still, just silly tight.
this is the only reason I didn’t push a new light engine, I already know of quite a few people that can’t open their lights at all and having opened a few myself, it ain’t easy and almost impossible in some cases. Not something I like doing.
I modded a few of these last week with the mcpcb’s I had and I offered everyone that sent the lights in the chance to save some money by opening the lights themselves. All of them paid me to open it.
I am going to need to get a better strap wrench if that keeps up.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I think a light engine replacement would be nice, depending on the price. Include a nice little plastic case like for a camera lens to keep the one(s) not in use protected and clean.
Once you get the light apart once, theres no need to tighten it up as much as it is from factory
-the- Throw calculator - Pulsars list
Which is exactly why having an entire swapable head would be great. ie: a GT70 minus the battery tube and carriers. Personally, I won’t buy it unless just the complete head is available.
What your saying ONLY makes sense if the head was much cheaper than the whole light. But that is not the case.
If a complete head is still 90% of the total price you would only be saving 10%. It makes more sense to have 2 complete lights then you don’t have to swap anything. Maybe you could even sell the tube and carriers.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Filled the form,
-2 or 6 spare reflectors (lets see the final price).
-1 spare lens.
-30Q batteries depending on price.
Question is, could I get this items without ordering a light or conversion kit?
Yes, we talked about this for a little bit but basically the savings of not having the battery tube and carriers would be so small it would not be worth it.
They would have to either order mis-matched quantities of the heads and battery tubes or be left with a bunch of extra battery tubes they can’t use.
And the buyer would end up with 1 and a half lights while saving less then the cost of shipping. It is inevitable that many would later want to buy another batter tube and carriers as well further complicating matters.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Yeah, to me a ‘head only’ option is just silly. And personally, I can’t see many people interested in that high priced option. Just get the whole light.
However, a light engine option makes sense for those who can’t solder. Cause either way, conversion kit or ‘light engine option’…….. the light engine has to be taken off.
Just make it crystal clear (as has already been done) that it can/might be difficult to remove the light engine initially.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Maybe I will do a video on the best and easiest way to take the light apart.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Yes I would pay more for a complete (finished just screw in) pill/light engine – me and soldering irons don’t mix.
Any thought of offering an Aspheric lens and spacer with the right focus?
Interested in one
“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
My reviews:
Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F /// Zanflare F1
Maybe I have just been lucky… but so far I have not had much of a problem loosening the light engines on any of mine. Just put those bad boys in a properly padded vice & twist.
The bezels were a bit more difficult….
. 
. 
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Having opened ~8 of them so far, I have not found such a method, just brute force and luck of the draw.
I had 2 that opened fairly easy (aka, I did it by myself).
The others varied from “I did it by myself but dead lifting felt easier”
To needing 2 Texans straining to get that sucker open, Mere normal men may not of emerged victorious.
Proper strap wrench technique is the only thing I have found that helps. we had 3 guys cranking away on one of these at one point before I found my strap wrench and there is no way in heck it is opening opening up.
Still took 2 of us to get it open with the wrench (1 to man the wrench and the other to hold everything in place to it didn’t slip out of the vice and ruin everything).
It is not impossible but be prepared for a struggle.
I don’t want people spending the money on the conversion kit only to not be able to use it. I would recommend opening your light now before placing the order.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
-the- Throw calculator - Pulsars list
filled for:
1 BLF GT 70 (NW)
8 batteries
Thanks
I would not start listing body parts for sale quite yet, any other projects will be some time in coming.
This one is happening quicker because I am been pursuing it for over a year and have most of the parts ready to go before hand.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I passed on the first release of the BLF GT, but now I’m really looking forward to the new GT70. That said, as long as the price is under $150 US dollars I’ll buy one.. I have plenty of Samsung 30Q button and flattop cells to accommodate this monster. I didn’t request any other options. Maybe I should have?
Boycott Nike
The price is listed in the OP, it is $250 at this point but I am sure we will reach at least 100 signups which drops the price down to $240.
The price will go down more with more sign up’s but we can’t know for sure how many will sign up.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Below is from the 2nd post………..
I am told the planned retail Price for the complete light will be $299.99
The group buy pricing will be setup in Tiers depending on how many lights are sold.
If we managed to get more then that I could talk to them about further discounts.
Free shipping is included for : USA, CANADA, WEST EUROPE, ASIA
add 20 USD for: Australia, New Zealand, part East Europe (contact Neal to find out about your exact country)
add 40 USD for: Serbia, Ukraine, Uruguay, Crotia, Saudi Arabia, south Africa
The shipping method will be selected by Lumintop to have the best chance of being delivered in a timely fashion.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
is the blf gt xhp70.2 will have texas avenger DTP MCPCB ??
For a light of that size and with all the components inside to allow this thing to run at the targeted specs, Lumintop would be losing money for every light they sell at the price you want. Even at the $240 price, it’s hard to imagine there’s much profit after shipping given the small quantities they are making.
I would have gladly waited for the this 2nd release. The first release was NW with semi yellow tint. If the new version is CW I would have sprung for 4 of them. Making 4 new versions as opposed to 2 original NW and 2 updated versions. Pricing is not concern. Rather time of wait, potential damage during transit, etc…
Interested in a cw one. Does it come with two battery carriers or do I have to buy them separately?
www.electricalmovements.de
TA….. a question whenever you have time. No rush…
Is the Neutral White option going to actually be that, as close as possible to Truly “Neutral White”…. without the yellow/orange tint??
Neutral White with little or no tint warm or cool.
But better a lean to slight cool than yellow…. if it must lean.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Pages