Copy that, I just have to get some 3C dropin and this seems to be ready from the start.
Might just be the first dropin, which I leave as is without modding :)
About that thermal compound, I think I will ditch it and use the basic copper adhesive like always.
You can get a very tight fit easily and it´s cheap yet conducts heat well.
Nice!
Ill be looking forward to hear some review about these new drivers when people get them! :)
Anyone here able to answer questions below? I posted them earlier in this thread.
EDIT: Wow, either I did not read the info properly earlier, or Intl outdoor added this info after reading my question here. If so, THANKS! :)
"Note:
At 3A due to smaller size of P60 flashlights and high constant current, a lot of heat will be produced, however the module features a temperature protection system.
Lumen estimations are OTF and pertain to the Cool white XM-L U2 1B. The XM-L U2 is rated 975 to 1040 lumens @ 3A by CREE.
The Neutral version (XM-L T6 3C) will be slightly less bright as the upper binned XM-L U2 1B.
The Warm white (T3 7B) version will be visibly less bright than the Cool & Neutral white due to the lower efficiency of the T3 bin, as with all Warm white XM-Ls."
That kinda ansers my 3. and 4. questions. The first ones are not that important. But people here could feel free to comment/answer on them.
1: 3C is a little less blue, I would say. My eyes did not see the DRY 3C as warm but as very white, neutral light. It was good IMO, best tint to me, yet.
2: Normal T6 is the Cool White tint (usually 1A?). If compared to warm or neutral, it looks a bit blue. If looked all by itself, it looks quite white. Comparing side to side reveals more.
3: Normally you subtract around 20% but also reflector and lens eat light. Use UCL lens to get a couple percents more. More important to me is the clear outlook of the lens :)
Tailcap can also have some resistance and driver has some efficiency. Only real way to know lumens is to use integrating sphere to get some reference what is actually coming out.
4: 25% difference in LUMENS is far more than difference by eye. You need about 4x the amount of light for your eye to perceive it as twice as much light.
To be short: a difference like 700-750lm is really "nothing". Very hard to see that kind of differences if not carefully compared side by side.
I would say, that if you want most light to play with, get U2. For very nice white, neutral light, get 3C and if you are an incan lover or like yellow tints or better color rendering, get the warm one.
Thanks for the answers! Just what i wanted to know. :)
While you answered my question I edited my previous post. I think intl outdoor added some info. Or I was just blind earlier.. :p
I was leaning towards neutral white. But i really love the old warm incandescent lights. But more light is also fun!
Yeah yeah.. I know. I should buy all three.. :p
Ill try to wait for some reviews before ordering.. Probably gonna buy the NW. And then maybe the warm one.. :p and then... hehe..
This looks like a super drop-in! It would be ever better if we can just piggyback some 7135's for higher current.
All that this drop-in needs is an operating voltage of 2.7v - 9v, so that you can use either with 1 x 18650 or 2 x 18650
Thnx Hank!
3A is enough on a P60 dropin.... and send me some wine. ;-)
After thinking about it in a while, pulled the trigger for a 3A NW dropin.
How did you get those infos?
Statscrop,but might be outdated and inaccurate.
Joel
Thanks. Probably good enough for estimates.
Anyone recieved theirs?
First impressions?
I can't find any clear info about the driver. Anyone know what IC this one uses? I'd like to program one, but I can only do Atmel chips so far.
Kevin
Not received yet here, waiting patiently...
edit: almost 3 weeks gone, should be here soon...
Does anybody here know what will happen when the thermal protection kicks on for this drop-in? Will it turn off or drop into a lower mode?
My new Neutral White - T6 3C dropin came yesterday. It took about 2 weeks.
I put it in an L2P host and tested draw at the tail using a fresh Tennergy 2600...
High: 3.0 Amps
Medium: 1.05 A
Low: .08 A
The driver is blue and is marked V10+.
About 6 months ago I got one of the first batch of 25 of XinTD C8's. That C8 driver looks the same and has the same marking. At that time, some posters questioned whether the driver was any good. I have not had any trouble with that driver.
I turned the L2P on and left it on a table for 15 minutes. The light was very warm to touch but had not failed or changed mode due to heat.
I am happy.
Could you tell if there was any PWM in the lower levels please?
I did not see PWM on any mode.
Good to hear that, hopefully I'll receive mine by next week. wanted to compare it against my NW dropin with KD 3040ma driver.
You can check using a camera on your phone. I know there's PWM as I already asked Hank about it. Just wondering if its bad.