[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

Uhmm, I’m a noob when it comes to flashlight vocabulary. What I know is driving these Optisolis beyong 500mA/ LED is not a good idea if you care about lumen maintenance. You may laugh, but I only have one Convoy 18350 and that was a Djozz-lumen calibrated flashlight that I don’t want to open.

- Clemence

Clemence, what do you mean by lumen maintenance?

Cook the LEDs too hot, and they lose efficiency over time. They “wear out”.

Correct, Djozz reported a loss of 0,5% initial output after 40 continuous minutes at 500mA.

- Clemence

Any idea what’s the L70 rating on those LEDs?

It’s still so gradual most people probably wouldn’t even notice, but…

Optisolis designed for 25.000 L70. So far only calculated estimation available because it’s still undergoing the test. I predict it will reach 50.000 hours minimum judging from how well they can be overdriven.

- Clemence

Speaking of heat, an optisolis at 1amp is by far cooler that a 219c at 5, so I am still confused

Of course.

The die itself can’t handle so much power.

Of course the Optisolis will be cooler.

It’s about 3W of max power vs 20W.

Thermal resistance: Optisolis = 21-27 C/W vs 219C = 4,2 - 6,4 C/W.
Substrate: Optisolis = polymer based vs. 219C ceramic based

Optisolis might felt cooler outside but deep inside the die, it’s hotter than 219C (same wattage)

- Clemence

BAD news for you guys CCT mixer. Optisolis can’t be mixed in parallel configuration, the voltage between CW and WW is just too high. You can only mixed them in parallel within these two categories: (2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K) and (5000K, 6500K).
The WW will suck up most of the current leaves the CW very dim. The reason is because WW uses 440nm pump and CW uses 420nm pump.
If you really have to mix those two groups you have to wire them in series or use current balancing driver (when multi strings present) or multi output driver.

- Clemence

Thats unfortunate. I still :heart_eyes: Optisolis though

Does anyone see an advantage of ww optisolii over e21a? I personally believe that below 5000k the difference in tint/cri is pretty much irrelevant

Optisolis:

- ultra high CRI

- Very cheap for its output & CRI

- VERY easy to solder

- doesn’t require special MCPCB (for “normal” applications)

  • minimal “blue spike” for WW, no “blue spike” and cyan dip for CW.

The targeted applications are indeed geared towards general and luxury lighting such as those in museums, galleries, gem shops, printing labs, living space, etc…not flashlights

A good example is if we want to convert a gallery to very high CRI space. With E21, we would end up with very high cost with still less than perfect results. A diffused indirect lighting is required for lighting a space with minimal glare. A point source light source like E21 would lead to uncomfortable viewing experience. So, low to medium power LEDs are all it needs, distributed over larger area.
Even when spot lighting is needed, Optisolis paired with correct optic will do the job with much greater quality.

- Clemence

Yes, as lower an CCT and Illuminance that the less significant CRI. The main things is below of BBL. I do not tried optisolis but i do not seen difference between e21 r80/r9080 both 3000k

Clemence, this is a very comprehensive analysis, and I understand most of your points. I am just wondering if there exist an application that requires the extreme cri at 3000k?

At anything lower than 4000K I too don’t see much difference in colour reproduction EXCEPT for the redness. This means 2000K R70/80 is very yellow while 2000K R9080 is very orange. I don’t appreciate the high 90+ in warm CCT, only the higher wavelengths it brings. Until there’s a R7080 then R9080 is the only way to go to get such warmth from WW.

- Clemence

Late incoming shipment from Nichia arrived today:

This is a special E21A CCT I could not get. But surprisingly, this time Nichia has it. Based on my experience, 4500K in high CRI is not so easy to get from Nichia.

It’s D220, lower than I expected. But I see a pattern here. Brighter bin usually has higher voltage. For example earlier E21A sm403 D240 has M1 voltage bin. Voltage rank goes like this: L1 < L2 < M1
So D220 means its approximately as bright as the top bin D220 219B R9080 and lower than D240 219C R9050. It’s very good considering its domeless. Combined in quadtrix it should output approximately equal to the domed E900 144AM/AR.

- Clemence

And 500 pieces is a good stash too!!

I really like your photos
the E21A and Optisolis seem to have beautiful Red content.

I look forward to seeing some peoples mods with your new quad board and High CRI E21A and Optisolis. They have considerably higher R9 than 219C, which seem yellow to me.

I started to strongly think about a thrower build. I found a single cell (26650) Manta Ray C8.2 host, which is compatible with a 6V/3A boost driver, and is available with OP reflector. That host is originally intended for XHP50/50.2, but with a 6V configured VR21SP4, I think, it should work too (maybe I will need to grind the basement of the reflector to bring the focus closer to the MCPCB - but I hope, that will not be necessary).

Based on the 4×E21A measurements, which Texas_Ace made, the 6V/3A will be the exact sweet spot for this quadtrix.

If this will work for me, that will be super awesome… a 95 CRI ~1750 lumen pocketable thrower :sunglasses:

Ah… I just going to receive the current order from the local post, but I already thinking about the next Clemence order… I became an addict.