6. Batch "TA" 1S or 2S Bistro HD OTSM/NarsilM drivers 15-47.5mm size fit, S2+, C8, H03, MF01, MT03, Q8 Clicky or E-switch

Hey Lexel, how are the boost drivers coming along?

Has anyone helped you to modify NarsilM to run on them yet?

Interested in the boost driver as well.

Looking for Q8 type driver (with 2Series) to replace burned Convoy L6 driver (30mm) .
Help me to choose right options.

The main option is what you want it to do when power is first applied. Meaning what the tail switch does.
You can choose nothing, 2 short blinks, full turbo and I think moon.

I prefer that tail switch to be simply lock out ( do nothing ), it’s inconvenient to use anyways

Lexel should be PM you.

You want something like:

30mm, 2S, L6, NarsilM, PO=(NO)

I think you can choose 2 channel or 3 channel. 2 channel is something new so I’m not familiar with it other than its supposed to improve reliability.

Since he uses NarsilM v1.2. he might be able to set the ramp to 80% with dbl clk for turbo. That’s a good option to have.

You can use the spring from your old driver or order a new one. Shipping is cheaper if you solder the spring. It ships flatter. Anyway, I’m sure Lexel will get you sorted.

Hi Lexel, I’d like to but a 22mm 2S TA driver with NarsilM please

I have ordered today new board including 20-22mm as those are out of stock right now
so it will take about 2 weeks till I get new boards

Lexel, what size do you have ready to ship ?
I need a TA driver, 2S, NarsilM for a Mag 2D with MT-G2.

Hi, Lexel
How can I buy those drivers?
I am interested in 17 (for ZL h600) and 21mm (for H03) boost drivers. Where can I find options for those drivers?

Like I was saying in that other thread, his boost drivers are not for sale yet. I did hear that ToyKeeper has helped him to get NarsilM running on the Boost drivers, so hopefully they will be out pretty soon.

So for right now, everyone who wants a boost driver will just have to wait.

Not quite understand you previous message, now it is clear, thanks!

new boards are marked as my sideswitches
S-Switch
G-Ground
L-Lights MCU controlles
some drivers got LS for permanent LED light

*also most high current new drivers got filtering for better LVP, but this makes reflashing impossible
there is a solder bridge you can open next to small C3*

.

New generation of drivers releases now

replacing the at 2S unreliable AMC7135s
DD + small FET and resistors instead

MT03/09R XHP70.2
support of permanent switch LED plus MCU indicator with resistors


30mm for Convoy L6/ Thorfire S70S
support of permanent switch LED plus MCU indicator with resistors


20-22mm with 2 FETs and also 6+1 AMC

here with 1S configuration with 6+1 AMC
I had to drill out one via on the spring side partially that secures the switch pad from lifting if soldered too hot

17mm 2S with 2 FETs


17mm LX v1.0 FET+5+1
more filtering caps for very high drain builds

Very neat. So you’ve added a second smaller FET. How does that work with bigger FET?

have no idea what any of this means. 2 fets, filtering?

Yeah, it’s confusing. The MOSFET is like a remote controlled gate that can open and close many thousands of times per second to allow electricity to flow.

Filtering is what the capacitors do. They can take small ripples in current or voltage and basically smooth it or average it out. Or they can build up an electrical charge and release it very quickly.

Most of the components on these drivers are pretty simple. You’ve got a MOSFET (metal-oxide-semiconductor field-effect transistor), resistors, capacitors, an MCU (microprocessor control unit) which is like the brains of the circuit and then maybe some amc7135 current regulators. You flash your computer code (firmware) into the MCU to make it work.

I know a little bit about these driver designs, but when Lexel starts talking about them, I only understand about half of what he’s saying. LOL

2. FET in addition with 1-8 13 Ohm 0.5W resistors replaces linear regulators like the AMC7135 on higher voltage than 1S

the driver produces switch on and switch off spikes of the input voltage, usualy a battery takes quite good job on this
but on very high currents its getting more and more a problem
such spikes made here for example reset the LDO voltage regulator and making the LVP not reliable on very high currents tripping to early

for those spikes capacitors were added usually at least 10uF directly parallel to the battery
a 2.2uF capacitor on the LVP pin 7

spikes here on new more powerful PSU went out of control damaged a few drivers and killed a couple of LEDs

here the spikes on very short time setting


yellow is at the Driver input
pink after the LDO low pass
blue on a capacitor on the Power supply

Totally confused, so which pads lead to LED+, LED-, Switch ???

It is described in post 4. I’ll post it here.

Led + comes from battery spring, not a pad.


.

Thanks JasonWW,Lexel ! Restored my L6