Nichia 219B 4500k D220 9080 CRI Emitter output test by Texas_Ace; Amazing tint and CRI! Output is what you would expect.

Dedome is not something you can be sure in finel result. You can find some old cree datasheet about chemical compatibility of leds with silicone dome - even regular leds require some limited conditions, otherwise output can decrease much faster than expected. Nobody knows how much output you will have after 100, 10 or even 1 hour of light with dedomed led.
Lux dont practice chemical dedome (only mechanical).
Lux applies custom dome to prevent fast led degrate.
Finally - his modules work inside sealed area without oxygen.
Again, I dont feel this information usefull for blf modders - since xpl-hi are available (black flat etc.)
I suppose you can find enough information about silicone optics pros and cons. Most optics manufactures started to use this material 3-5 years ago.

I have never seen Vinz re-dome LEDs. He has a method of removing th green tint after de-doming though (he calls it diamond treating).

There are some modders here who build hundreds of lights per year with dedomed LEDs. I have never read a single post in the last 5-6 years where somebody measured an actual loss of performance of time.

I also has Osram Oslon LCW CQAR.CC-MR-6L-L2 (from pargos-shop, 2 orders), and use it in 3 my flashlights with TIR-optics.
And I also can say : no any grinnich .
Perfect white color, slightly warm light, ~3900-4000K (color rendering slightly nicer, than in 2 my FC mkIV HiCRI Zebralight’s).

Dear maukka, pls. wrote full name and color group of this measured sample Osram Square LED.
It’s CQAR.CC or CSSRM1 ?

It was sold to the member Chouster as a GW CSSRM1.BM-MPMR-XX55-1.

I shut out osram for myself- low lm/w and power dissipation. Samsung is best as budget hi-cri

thanks.

Yes, all hiCri led has lower low lm/w efficiency, that ordinary led’s, and these Osram Square series isn’t a “lumen champions”, but has excellent color rendering and (imho) tint (CQAR.CC 4000K 6L group).
If you prefer samsung 351D tint - it’s your choice.

Are you talking about the same Oram in the Maukka test above? If so that thing has a whopping DUV of 0.0093, which is great for making horror films.

both are Osram Square family, both 4000K hiCRI, but Maukka tested CSSRM1 with different color group

Where can I get some of these LEDs?

That is the question many of us are asking as well.

Clemence has not been able to get anymore of them and no one else has been able to as well.

I have a back channel hunt going to look for some but nothing so far.

At this point I am thinking about seeing how large of an order would be needed to get a batch made.

Dooooo it! :stuck_out_tongue:

Which one? The Osram or the 219B?
If its the 219B, then I still have few hundreds left from the last GB (both the sw45k and sw40).

- Clemence

You have some of the 9080 219B? I thought you were not able to get them anymore? Sorry, have not ventured out of my own threads basically all year.

Check this: [GB ended, news update only] Last batch of 219B sw45k R9080 and sw40 R9080

Nice, I was not aware you managed to get anymore.

Although it looks like they have discontinued them entirely? No way to have another batch made?

I guess the only real option is the E21A or similar LED moving forward for very high CRI? That sucks since it is so much harder to use.

Actually had a light I am working on now that would of been perfect with the 219B 9080.

There’s a minimum order to meet, hence the last group buy. But I really don’t know how much 219Bs left in the warehouse. I have to check back to Nichia. I personally don’t want to stock them anymore. If you really have to use it then PM me.
Single E21A is the way to go, it’s very similar to 219B in performance and output. Rosy tint is another thing though…

EDIT: Yes, officially discontinued. We got the last batch from last year stock, you can see it from the bin labelling.

- Clemence

Hi all, I reflowed a m43 from 219c to 219b sw45k. should i be okay with 30Qs?

Yes, with that many LED’s to split the load you should be ok with 30Q’s. They also have a pretty high Vf so they don’t pull a lot of current.

That said, I would try to get a current reading on them so that you can know for sure since those LED’s are so rare.