Yep… :+1: And at this point in time 18650 is far more popular than 26650 which is far more popular than 21700.
That may or may not change in years to come… time will tell.
I am just about ready to Sign up for one conversion kit
(still trying to figure what I want / need to order)
hopefully the neutral tint will be in the 5000k-5500k range?
with a “wow light beam”
(or should I choose the cool white for this?)
I would add an extra bat carrier
-* if* a battery tube coupling can be purchased (so I can actually use it/ lol)
do I need a spare reflector and lens?
not sure why people a getting them?
(or will these just collect dust in a box like my short tube w no coupler?) :person_facepalming:
if we change our mind can we add parts later as needed?
(I really don’t know enough to make the best informed decision and this will be my first mod - but I can solder! )
I wish they would offer the engine and button section
( so I could simply switch back and forth if desired )
will this mod still throw the light for approx. a mile ?
Some people want an extra reflector and lens. If you dont, that is okay.
Orders can be changed later.
The throw distance is ANSI-FL1 rated 1400-1500 meters. This is conservative and is also dependant on the emitter chosen. With a sliced dome it should be well over 1 mile. A CW emitter might even bump it up even farther.
@ Giggle Monster Team:
Just out of curiosity: Why did you choose to use an FET driver for the BLF GT70 and not a boost- or buck driver? Personally, I like the idea of constant output when voltage decreases. For sure, the FET will deliver the highest performance when pushing the light to its limits but this can only be done once with fully charged cells.
Maybe they could…if everyone here signed some kind of a 10-years-total-care-agreement with Lumintop, obligating to buy at least one of their upcoming flashlights.
As was pointed out above it basically boils down to the FET driver offering better overall performance for this light.
It will be brighter then the buck driver for any given input voltage from the batteries and since this light will virtually always be used at high power, the FET driver makes more sense.
The buck driver would be a better option if this was a light that would be run at low power levels for extended periods, as that is the only place it would see a benefit (and the benefit would only be a bit longer run time).