What did you mod today?

Rofis JR10 Triple, Lighted side switch, USB Rechargeable

Just saw pictures of D4S
I’m assuming it’s using this combo with 26650.

What’s a D4S? Is that a new emisar model? I’m assuming it’s not the D4 you’re referring to since it doesn’t use 26650s.

Won’t the short tube version of THAT be fun!

Good thing I have some 26350’s on stand-by
. :wink:

Chunky to the max! :partying_face:

Surely Hank’s making short tubes for these, surely he is
.

Well you also have the Haikelite SC26 that’s available on preorder right now that is similar to the D4S. I guess depending if you want a single emitter or a quad, you can pick one or the other. Good to have choices!

New bezel for one of my modded Sipik 58 clones last night.

This Sipik 58 clone previously had an LED Lenser style optic installed. However, the optic was just a little too wide at the top and protruded above the top of my previous bezel. I had epoxied around the top edge of the optic and glued a thin aluminum ring to the very front of the light to cover this gap.

I never was satisfied with this setup. If I dropped it on the bezel I was concerned the ring or optic might fall off the bezel.

To fix this I took another optic and filed the widest part of it off. This was a used optic from previous mod attempts and wasn’t in great condition. I also shortened the to edge of the optic slightly.

This new smaller optic fit much easier inside a fresh bezel. the optic is now fully recessed and I am confident if I drop it, it won’t fall out. It also looks prettier than my prior bezel.

I used my new favorite glue (Fiberfix) to attach the optic to the bezel. Fiberfix is a gooey superglue that instantly cures when the little blue light in the back of the dispenser is shined on it. First I carefully aligned the optic and tested the beam, then tacked the optic down in 3 places with Fiberfix, then went around the edge of the optic with more Fiberfix. The glue is gooey enough not to flow past the edge of the optic and the instant cure with the light is extremely handy.

Aligning the optic is critical with LED Lenser optics. If the optic isn’t perfectly straight the focal point for the outer portion of the optic will be offset from that for the inner aspheric lens. When done right both spots should overlap.

Here are some pictures:

Spot mode:

*
Flood mode*:

Incidently, by far the BEST source of LED Lenser style optics for modders that I’ve found is OSH. The small optic I’m using (same size as on an LED Lenser P5) is from this light . The entire light only costs $9 and gives you an LED Lenser P5 sized optic, along with various other parts.

Also, the optic on these cheap OSH lights has the same focal length for both elements of the optic. This means that in spot beam you get a single spot just like an LED Lenser. You don’t get a spot+spill with less throw like you get with Coast or Fenix Lights (in those lights the focal length for the two elements is intentionally different to produce that beam pattern).

This particular Sipik 58 also has a lot of earlier mods inside it, including the following:

  • Tailcap electronic switch
  • E-switch driver from Mountain Electronics with Moppydrv firmware
  • Interior of battery tube widened to provide room for a plastic sheet bent into a tube and brass sheet bent into a tube. This provides the electrical contact to the tailcap e-switch (Same concept as in the FW3A).
  • XPL HI emitter on multi-layer post on Copper Noctigon.

Well that’s nice, very rare to find TIRs like that outside led lenser.
How does the quality and ring artifacts compare to the real led lenser optics?

I compared the beam with my OSH optic to that in my LED Lenser M1. The OSH optic had a better beam and more throw, but it was a slightly wider optic.

Overall, I think the quality of the OSH optics is about the same as LED Lenser optics. Not sure if the plastic is as good quality but the shape is great. Rings are mostly caused by bezel reflections. My modded Sipik has no rings outside the beam in any zoom position.

Led4power will have some cute-4 dtp mcpcb’s ready soon !

I actually have found that the CUTE-4, with it’s smaller individual TIR’s, is more floody than I like. So I quit building quads with it some time back. I have 3 or 4 of the optics, just no real desire to build them.

Edit: Angie is new to me, maybe she’ll be “Cute”. :wink:

I had an Angie for a while, pain in the ass :smiley:

We had an Angie around here for a while too, sweet as could be, the kids absolutely adored her!

This old zeusray Warhawk gave me years ago. Driver and LED were still good from when I originally built it, the plastic press in tail cap had since died when I lent it to a buddy.

Used a driver retaining ring filed down, a new PCB and switch and some patients to get it sized and pressed in there.

That’s some pretty good looking work circa 2015

My first MOD and first time soldering, everythingÂŽs new for me. Thanks for this aknowledged forum a really nice people :slight_smile: - Convoy M1 (new version with rigid shelf), X5/X6 DD driver (changed wires for silicon AWG18), KD Copper DTP MCPCB, XP-L HI 5000K, bypassed springs (silicon AWG18 wires), convoy clip. I had to sanded the bottom of reflector to clear the space, modified C8 spacer (cutted down and lowered), kapton tape just for to be safe and I had to go as flat as I could, when I have been soldereding wires to MCPCB.
Top quality of Convoy host, smooth intense neutral white beam with decent throw. I think this will be a really nice alround flashlight :).

Nice build “F.i.l.a.s”, I love the pictures everyone posts here. Us newbies here are learning from you guys. So much experience to pass on, I Love BLF. Thanks for sharing :beer:

WOW F.i.l.a.s really nice job!

First build and using 18awg leads and bypass’s!!! :beer:

Thanks KawiBoy1428 :slight_smile: