Sofirn SP70 Alone $50, PM for AMZ US CODE(LIMITED)

I’m a huge fan of NarsilM personally. Q8, BLF GT, TA modded MT09R…

I’m not familiar with the C8F UI, but I’d like ramping to 50%, double click to turbo.

I agree. :+1: … The 21700 / 20700 may or may not be the future… that remains to be see as far as we are concerned in the ‘torch’ world.

But for now & the foreseeable future in the world of lights…. the 18650 is far more popular than the 26650 which is far more popular than the 21700. That is neither good or bad… it is just how it is…

  • So if it is to be quad batteries… keep it 18650.
  • If it is to be triple batteries…… keep it 18650.
  • If it is to be two batteries in series… make it 26650.

And please SOFIRN……

…….Keep up what seems to be your tradition of offering ’True Neutral White’ emitters instead of ‘Urine Yellow or Harsh Blue’.

It seems you have many offerings in the 5000K - 5700K range…… ’True Neutral White’ that adds little tint one way or the other.

THANK YOU & KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!! :+1:

Sofrin agreed to keep the K70 rolling the K70 is a modded S70/L6. Its NOT a sodacan light, Its NOT a triple XHP70 monster. Slight changed are okay but i dont think this thread is intended as a whole new build?

The K70 was meant to be a functional simple versatile light at a decent price. 50USD was a similiar price to what the Q8 cost and the K70 would of had similiar output or even more output then the Q8 stock.

My S70/L6 see some use while my MT03 is just covered in dust because that style does not suit what is needed when outdoors.

You could even mount a S70 on a rifle if you wanted to because it has the skinnier battery tube and the beam profile is well suited to actual real world use.

Plus running 2 26650s in series is as much W/H as running 4 18650s that is why this style works.

Looks like you jumped in the deep end Jason :stuck_out_tongue: lol.

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I like the 2x26650 platform. Along with the L6 size head. (Althought 3 XHP70’s would be awesome!

I’m always about max output, so is a single XHP70.2 feasible?

Well said everydaysurvivalgear. :+1: … Sounds good also. Two 26650’s in series is pretty darn nice too. :wink:

From what I understand, Sofirn would like to use their own driver design and UI instead of a whole new driver to run NarsilM. (Not that they are ruling that out)

Using their own driver and UI helps keep costs down.

They would like to use their new v2.0 ramping mode (maybe even a more refined version), plus 1 or more regular mode groups. I’ll let you know if the give more details on the UI and it’s modes. More than likely it will be a mix of the UI on the SP32A v2.0 and the C8F. I listed both UI’s below.

Here is the ramping mode instructions from their SP32A v2.0. See what you think. Looks pretty good to me. Especially if they tweak it to make it smoother like Narsil.

Group 2: Ramping (takes about 4 seconds)

When the light is in Group 1 (distinct brightness levels), press&hold switch for 3 seconds, it switches to Ramping, the default brightness is xxx lumen (Medium Mode).

When the light is in Group 2 (ramping), Fast click to turn on or turn off (Nice!)

Press&hold the side switch to ramp up and down. It changes direction when ramping again within 1.5 sec; same direction when ramping again after 1.5 sec.

The light flashes two times when it reaches Eco or High.

Double clicks to activate Turbo, one click goes back to the last brightness.

Triple clicks to Strobe, one click goes back to the last brightness.

When the light is OFF, press&hold for 3 seconds, it flashes 2 times and then switches back to Group 1.

Here are the 4 mode groups they use on the C8F. Remember to ignore the actual lumens, just see the level spacing.

• Group 1: Low 2 (85 lm) > Medium (650 lm) > High 2 (1330 lm)

• Group 2: Low 1 (37 lm) > Low 2 (150 lm) > Medium (790 lm) > High 2 (1330 lm)

• Group 3: Low 1 (22 lm) > Low 2 (80 lm) > Medium (630 lm) > High 1 (990 lm) > High 2 (1540 lm)

• Group 4 (muggle/kids group): Low 1 (20 lm) >Low 2 (70 lm) > Medium (150 lm)

The original group is group 1 and it always cycles from low to high.

1) Fast click for ON and hold 0.5 seconds to turn OFF (This can probably be changed to: fast click for on and off)

2) Memory function: From OFF, hold 0.5 seconds to go to the previous used mode (sounds odd to me)

3) In any mode, including OFF, hold 1 second to go to moonlight (1 lm)

4) In any mode (except lock-out and kids group), double-click to go to turbo (2580 lm), one click to go to the previous mode.

5) To lock-out the light, from OFF, click 4 times rapidly, the light blinks twice to lock-out; click 4 times rapidly, the light blinks twice to unlock.

6) Battery level indicator: Click 3 times rapidly to go to battery level indicator. At 50% - 100, 4 blinks to confirm; At 30 - 50, 3 blinks to confirm; At 15 - 30, 2 blinks to confirm; At 0 - 15%, 1 blink to confirm. The light finishes blinking, goes to the normal lighting.

7) Low battery indicator: 3 blinks when the battery level is lower than 30% will then go to previous lighting; blinks lasting for 1 minute when voltage lower than 2.8 volts will then go to turn off.

No comments on a UI?

This is what I have suggested:

2 mode groups (only 2 groups is their idea. They might be limited in storage space for coding).

Group 1: 5 brightness levels.
Single click to turn on/off, press and hold to choose mode low-med-high-low-med-high cycle.
Moonlight and turbo hidden. Turbo is a dbl clk. Moon is press and hold for 1 second from off.

To switch mode groups, something like 6 fast clicks or press and hold for 3 to 5 seconds from off. Something a bit unusual so you don’t accidentally switch groups, but easy enough to remember.

Group 2: Ramping.
Click to turn on/off, press and hold for ramping. Changes direction similar to Narsil. Dbl clk to turbo. Moon is press and hold for 1 second from off then click to turn off.

Does the above sound okay?

I don’t know if strobes are necessary since they are not on the C8F. They can probably be added and activated with a triple click. (I never use strobes)

Is there a need for electronic lock out or is mechanical lockout prefered? (I always go for mechanical)

It’s important to get a good UI into place as they may use this on other future lights.

The ramping mode with extra standard modes sounds good its got every thing we need with out being overall complicated.

So if this light has a tail cap any way they can program a standby mode into the side switch? This will give us the best option for one handed operation. I think the S70 has a standby mode ill have to check mine.

Have they mentioned a price or do they want a parts list?

Hey Chris, how’s it going. I’m glad somebody likes this.

All lights have a tail cap, maybe you mean tail switch?
This UI will be usable on either style. A single click of the side switch is on/off. If a light using this UI happens to have a tail switch, then that will just be for mechanical lockout. You don’t control the UI from a mechanical tail switch.

No prices have been mentioned, but I assume they want to keep prices in line with the competition or maybe better it. I think if they can come up with a better product (updated emitter, SMO reflector, better UI, maybe higher output) at the same price as the competition, it will be a winner. Even if it costs a bit more, you won’t have to swap a bunch of stuff to upgrade it so you still come out ahead.

I can say for sure they will not want to use heatpipes and stuff that would just raise the price and add complications.

Hey Jason I’m okay thanks. You?

Yea I mean switch. Some side switches don’t have a standby setting when using a tail switch they rely on the on the tail switch as lockout. But looks like this ui does have the ability to turn the light on/off with the side switch.
You can also program the mechanical switch to change modes if you wanted duel switch controls.

Yea the easier the light the better it will be cheaper and easier to make. Does sofirn have access to the S70? Or will they build the light from scratch?

I would definitely be in for a true budget thrower, somewhere in the price range of the K70:

  • 5000+ burst lumens
  • 1000m+ throw
  • 26650 compatible with 18650 adapters (could just be some simple silicon rings)

What’s the kcd numbers on your modded L6 Jason? The S70/k70 has the same size smo reflector. Probably no shaved LED on this project. I think we need to wait and see what sofirn can do.
Maybe we can suggest a 80mm ish reflector?

Jason, I’m with Chris; I like the UI. It has all we need. Personally I have no interest in strobes and such. I can take them or leave them… but if it does have them, hide them away. I like & use manual lockout most of the time. Switch lockout is OK too if you want to add it… your call. I’ll still use mechanical to most of the time… I always do. :smiley:

I agree…. keep this one a simple & to the point ‘workhorse’. Good UI & components without unnessary bells & whistles. :+1:

Build it… people will buy. :wink:

If sofirn want to keep the size and 2x26650 series form factor I think put in a smooth reflector that 5mm bigger than L6 or S70S and put in an XHP70.2 and give it 10-12A current in turbo and about 3000 lumens in ramping max. No need tailcap switch bacause it is uncomfortable. Only side switch with a good lockout (NOT long press to unlock) triple or quad click. Lighted bitton which show battery level with two colors. 8mm thick led shelf or more. Use 25mm DTP copper MCPCB so a 25mm Maxtoch is an easy replace if somebody want it. Big heat fins on head.

Edit:
Just saw in OP that you want to keep the tail switch and use a 9A switch. But if you leave the switch out then no need to worry and make the light drain 12A from batteries. And it is more simple and cheaper.put the switch parts price in a more better driver.

This is good for me :slight_smile:

+1 for modes +ramping

I would also appreciate a hidden strobe mode.

SP70, good name.

I have a stock L6 and like the side switch very much. Sometimes in the dark, it takes me a minute to find it. With gloves on it’s even more challenging.

A lighted side switch would help, but that would also add cost and drain the battery.

Is it possible to make an obvious way to find the side switch by feel alone?

For this UI to be used on many models of lights there would not be any dual switch controls. It’s all controlled from the side switch.

I don’t know if they have access to the S70 parts. Probably not since they are thinking of making the head 15mm bigger.