Yes, I am a Sofirn troll now. :confounded:
Actually there is more involved here than you think, but which I canāt speak about. People who are interested in the C8F should also be interested in the new UI. That is all I can say.
So I am going to certain threads about the C8F and SP32A to see if anyone would be interested in talking about the new UI Sofirn is making. Its not so much about the new light.
Heās not a troll :innocent:
He probably only wants to help ghost group buys out.
Back onto the main project, what I would absolutely love is the addition of an 21700 extension tube, or maybe an triple OP reflector.
That first one would make 10k lumens with XHP50.2s possible in the palm of a C8, although there would be a risk of the LEDs, even in a triple array, to be destroyed by 2S 21700s.
Yeah, I know Jason. Couldnāt resist though. lol
I have a Titanium X6 with a largish copper pill section fitted with 3 XHP-50.2ās and running 10,200 lumens via a pair of 18350 cells. Pretty amazing! The Aspireās have the longest run time possible in this set up and donāt deliver maximum power so , so far, the emitters are intact. Iāve been thinking about doing it with a different light, figured more cell like in the C8 with an extension tube and a pair of 21700ās would probably blow the emitters. Fun though, seeing all that output from a handful of flashlight.
I initially built my DBC-05 for three 50ās, not knowing what they would do, and was not impressed with the output. Switched to 50.2ās when they released and still, only 11,000-12,000 lumens. So I rebuilt it with three 70.2ās. Crazy, that one! The pair of iJoy 21700ās did some 32A and melted the plastic housing of a mini Omten switch. Now with a Tofty, a pair of Samsung 30Tās do 48.8A at the tail and 20,000 lumens. It makes a LOT of heat!
Jason, see if you can get Sofirn to use the Samsung LH351D, that would be interestingā¦. I have had dealings with them too and they seem eager to please.
I even hear thereās a new XHP-35.2 outā¦ 
What! Are you pulling my leg?
Nope
Cool! I wonder what these bad boys can do in a BLF GT. Just swapped the sense resistor to bump up the output. 
As I understand it the gains on this one are minimal, I donāt know if itāll be a good thing here, as in the XP-G3, so I wouldnāt get too excited about it until some testing can be done.
The GT was set to deliver optimal performance from the 35 in High, the double click to Turbo gave right at the peak performance before the fall off. Tweaking it for more power is just gaining heat, not output, and reducing the life of the emitter. This is one factory light that was set up by modders, there really wasnāt a lot that could be done by way of improvements as it was built in from the get goā¦
I was assuming the new 35.2 made its peak power at a higher amperage like the 50.2 and 70.2. Something like 3A to 3.5A. Alas, it does not seem so impressive.
I saw a number of 4% better lumens output to current draw, not really much at all but more efficient all the same. Until some folks get hands on experience thereās just really no way to know what the new 35 will do. Possibly more current, somewhat higher output, which would be fine, but at the same time the flip chip technology has shown us odd tint in the beam and less potential for throwā¦ and theyāre even more difficult to remove the dome from with good result.
Update: Hereās the announcement I gotā¦
Enabled Sofirn c8f 18650 at room temperature (26C degrees) in 990Lm mode. After 20 minutes, the temperature of the head reached 58C degrees. Honestly I hoped that Sofirn would stop at 50C, but alas.
Anyway to get switch LED to stay on?
Without to much modding?
No. You would have to completely get rid of all battery indicator stuff and rewire the switch to the driver.
Hello guys,
Sorry for reviving this thread. I bought that flashlight Sofirn C8F on AliExpress a few years back. It worked OK, but light usually got less bright as battery charge dropped. I recently removed the battery to recharge and placed it back fully charged verified, but the flashlight no longer works, does not react on pressing the side button, and thereās no tail button like in new versions. Tried 2 other 18650 charged batteries - still doesnāt work.
Not sure what the model version is, it say SF18F262 on the front cap with glass. What has likely happen to it, any way to test, is there anything I can do to revive it? If the driver is burnt, why this happen at replacing the battery, and where to get the new driver, which driver model would you suggest?
Maybe locked out? 4 fast clicks from off.
No, it doesnāt change anything.
Do those batteries work in other lights?
1, make sure the tubes are all tightened both front and back.
2, make sure the tailswitch is on.
3, make sure itās unlocked.
For storage, I do everything: lock it out, turn the tailswitch off, unscrew it a bit for further physical lockout. Drove me crazy ātil I remembered my entire checklist.
The batteries work fine in another Sofirn LED light. In my C8F there is no tailswitch (at all). The batteries are pressed tightly into the other contact end by the end flange. Both end flanges are tighten. The flashlight doesnāt react on the side button at all. I tried another end flange with a tailswitch from Sofirn C8A flashlight, and it still doesnāt work. Should I get a replacement driver, which model, and where from? I see some C8F drivers are available on Aliexpress?
Old one with XP-Gs?
Last resort. āDisassembleā everything. Separate head/tube/tail. Check the retaining ring on the driver, make sure itās tight. If you can, loosen it, jiggle the driver, retighten. Reassemble all 3 pieces tightly.
Something evidently āhappenedā between taking out the cells, and putting them back in.
Iāve had lights that needed all pieces to screwed together really tightly, else there wouldnāt be contact.