Sofirn SP70 Alone $50, PM for AMZ US CODE(LIMITED)

I donā€™t know if the BLF name can be put on any light. Especially one that does not use a BLF based driver. It may also be up to the forum owner, SB, since he owns the BLF name.

Personally I think Sofirn SP70 is a fine name. Iā€™ll contact SB to see what he thinks. Texas_Ace as well. There might be some sort of prerequisite to use the BLF name. I donā€™t know for sure.

You can use the BLF name for BLF modded lights look at the older BLF group buys? This is actually a scratch built BLF light lots of BLF lights have used of the shelf parts including divers. For example the Luckysun BLF D80? All as we done was changed the LED to a DTP MCPCB and up the amperage of the stock driver.

Count me in for group buy.

We are not doing that yet.

If a group buy happens, that info will be linked here so people know.

I like ā€˜Sofirn SP70ā€™ too. If BLF ā€˜can beā€™ added fine. But the ā€˜Sofirnā€™ name should be on it too.

Itā€™s not common, so I may be missing something important, butā€¦
If you have a proper shim, making a razor cut should not require years of training. And should be of higher quality than similar cuts that many modders do by hand.
Yes, those of use who want to go the extra mile to polish afterwards can still do it better. Though according to RMM, the difference is cosmetic.

Can someone please explain what SP or SF mean on those Sofirn lights? Thanks!

RMM charges $8 extra to slice the dome. Would that be a fair bump in price to get a dedomed SP70?

I donā€™t know if Sofirn can do it and if so, would they want to do it. It adds a lot of extra complication to the assembly as well as packaging since it will need to be kept seperate from the regular version. It may even slow down the production times. Maybe they could do a limited number for those few who want it and canā€™t slice it their self. It would probably cost extra, though.

I also donā€™t know if people would really like the sliced 70.2 beam. Iā€™ve heard it gets warmer and the corona gets more yellow. I have not tried slicing a 70.2 myself. Iā€™ve only sliced the older xhp70. It lost a noticeable amount of output, like 20% to 25% and I didnā€™t like that do I stuck a new emitter back in. I believe the 70.2 only losses around 15%.

Something as to consider is if Sofirn uses a neutral white 70.2 like a 5000K, and you slice it, you may get too warm a color so maybe a 5700 would be a good choice for a single tint. We have not talked about tints, but Iā€™m sure we will eventually. Typical 70.2 tints Iā€™ve seen are 3000K, 4000K, 5000K, 5700K, 6000K and 6500K.

From the Convoy store.

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It looks to me like SF is tail switch and SP is side switch. I would also like to know if there is more to it than that, and if the letters stand for anything in particular.

Itā€™s just some internal naming system they have. I donā€™t know what it means. Maybe they can explain it.

I had a xhp70.2 5700k sliced, and it turned a bit green. Which I donā€™t like at allā€¦.
The xhp70.2 4000k dome on I like a lot though.
So when it comes to the choice between bad tint and great throw, or good tint and not so good throw I would choose good tint. But thatā€™s just me.

I did find a light with a 90mm head and a sliced 70.2 led. The Acebeam K65. So it should have the same size reflector as our light will use. A 5000K NW version was tested by Maukka. Itā€™s rated at 6200 lumen and 1014 meters throw. It actually did 4890 lumens and had 900 meters throw. Itā€™s possible this discrepancy is due to the specs being for the 6000K CW version and this being the 5000k NW version.

Here is a beam shot.

He commented that the sliced dome gave the hot spot a slight greenish tint and it made the corona a stronger yellow. It also looks like the spill is fairly yellow. His full review is here. It seems to me like we would want the tint to be a bit cooler than normal since the 70.2 seems to appear warmer than you expect. Iā€™ve got a 6500K in my L6 and it still looks a bit NW to me. I live with it though, as I canā€™t find anything cooler. This where we need a tint expert like Texas_Ace.

I think the K65 tests prove that with enough power and a sliced dome, over 1000m is easily achieved. I just donā€™t know if a sliced dome is worth it or not.

Leaving the dome on seems to produce a nicer beam with higher lumen output, but may only get us to around 900 meters. I think this is very reasonable seeing as the older L6 and S70s were only around 500m or so.

Is the world ready for a FET driver? That might be the only way to reach 6000+ lumen on a pair of 26650 batteries.

To start off Jason PMā€™ed me so know that I know positively nothing about this light or thread besides what I scanned on this page.

Far as using the BLF name on the light, while there is no technical rules for using the name, I think that the BLF name should be reserved for lights that are ā€œcompletelyā€ designed by BLF, using BLF firmware / drivers and to our standards.

My own personal standard for a ā€œBLFā€ light is a light that I do not need or want to mod after I buy it.

Most lights made now days get input from BLF members in some form, so the line needs to be drawn someplace or BLF will loose itā€™s meaning on a light.

That is just my opinion though.

Lights like the Q8, GT, FSW3 (SP? yeah, I am that far out of the loop) are good examples of this.

I see some people asking about XHP70.2 tint.

There is a massive variance in XHP70.2 tints, much more then the model numbers would seem to say in my experience.

Good tints are not easy to find as we are finding with the GT70.

I do not recommend slicing the production lights, all the XHP70.2ā€™s I have sliced so far turn some level of green, although the very cool or very warm versions seem to hide this the best. It will also get warmer by 300-500k when sliced as well.

Could be it would turn out fineā€¦ but it also could end up being a mess if not done properly.

Maybe it would be done properlyā€¦ maybe not.
And this is assuming SOFIRN would even considering doing it in the first place.

ā€œYears of trainingā€ā€¦. I assume that was an overstatement. :wink: . But it would take some training & time is moneyā€¦ which will add to the price.
The dedoming will add to the price also. Is everyone going to be OK with that for a ā€˜featureā€™ they may not even want for this light?

Something I wonder, if dedoming is so quick & easy; why do people charge so much go do it?? Is there a high failure rate?? Beats me, IDK; but I do wonder.

The condensed version: Basically the same as a L6 or S70s. Single 70.2, pair of 26650. Side and tail switch. It may have a 90mm head instead of a 75mm. I hope SMO reflector. Driver and UI is not decided.

Sounds nice, although unless they use BLF firmware / driver and get a good tint LED, I know a lot of people would still want to mod it with said parts, so not sure I personally would qualify it as a ā€œBLF Seriesā€ light, but that is just me.

So I guess it depends on what they end up going with in the end.

I donā€™t see any issue with using BLF in the name seeing as the light is being made for us by us its still a BLF build. As for the driver its better for them to make the driver its good inventive for them. For us its less time consuming and wonā€™t take as long to build the light and will keep cost down. Maybe we can use BLF firmware on there driver but the original modes already sound good.

Look at the Astrolux A01 that is a BLF edition light. In the end it doesnā€™t really matter but if we are going to have major input its a loss to not have our name on it.

The only time we have ever had an issue was after the first BLF A6 driver where made. We had companies trying to place BLF naming on random lights because they saw how big the group buy was.

/\ ā€¦ :+1: ā€¦ Agreed.

Wellp, ā€œFUBUā€ is already taken, soā€¦ :smiley: