Sofirn SP70 Alone $50, PM for AMZ US CODE(LIMITED)

It’s not common, so I may be missing something important, but…
If you have a proper shim, making a razor cut should not require years of training. And should be of higher quality than similar cuts that many modders do by hand.
Yes, those of use who want to go the extra mile to polish afterwards can still do it better. Though according to RMM, the difference is cosmetic.

Can someone please explain what SP or SF mean on those Sofirn lights? Thanks!

RMM charges $8 extra to slice the dome. Would that be a fair bump in price to get a dedomed SP70?

I don’t know if Sofirn can do it and if so, would they want to do it. It adds a lot of extra complication to the assembly as well as packaging since it will need to be kept seperate from the regular version. It may even slow down the production times. Maybe they could do a limited number for those few who want it and can’t slice it their self. It would probably cost extra, though.

I also don’t know if people would really like the sliced 70.2 beam. I’ve heard it gets warmer and the corona gets more yellow. I have not tried slicing a 70.2 myself. I’ve only sliced the older xhp70. It lost a noticeable amount of output, like 20% to 25% and I didn’t like that do I stuck a new emitter back in. I believe the 70.2 only losses around 15%.

Something as to consider is if Sofirn uses a neutral white 70.2 like a 5000K, and you slice it, you may get too warm a color so maybe a 5700 would be a good choice for a single tint. We have not talked about tints, but I’m sure we will eventually. Typical 70.2 tints I’ve seen are 3000K, 4000K, 5000K, 5700K, 6000K and 6500K.

From the Convoy store.

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It looks to me like SF is tail switch and SP is side switch. I would also like to know if there is more to it than that, and if the letters stand for anything in particular.

It’s just some internal naming system they have. I don’t know what it means. Maybe they can explain it.

I had a xhp70.2 5700k sliced, and it turned a bit green. Which I don’t like at all….
The xhp70.2 4000k dome on I like a lot though.
So when it comes to the choice between bad tint and great throw, or good tint and not so good throw I would choose good tint. But that’s just me.

I did find a light with a 90mm head and a sliced 70.2 led. The Acebeam K65. So it should have the same size reflector as our light will use. A 5000K NW version was tested by Maukka. It’s rated at 6200 lumen and 1014 meters throw. It actually did 4890 lumens and had 900 meters throw. It’s possible this discrepancy is due to the specs being for the 6000K CW version and this being the 5000k NW version.

Here is a beam shot.

He commented that the sliced dome gave the hot spot a slight greenish tint and it made the corona a stronger yellow. It also looks like the spill is fairly yellow. His full review is here. It seems to me like we would want the tint to be a bit cooler than normal since the 70.2 seems to appear warmer than you expect. I’ve got a 6500K in my L6 and it still looks a bit NW to me. I live with it though, as I can’t find anything cooler. This where we need a tint expert like Texas_Ace.

I think the K65 tests prove that with enough power and a sliced dome, over 1000m is easily achieved. I just don’t know if a sliced dome is worth it or not.

Leaving the dome on seems to produce a nicer beam with higher lumen output, but may only get us to around 900 meters. I think this is very reasonable seeing as the older L6 and S70s were only around 500m or so.

Is the world ready for a FET driver? That might be the only way to reach 6000+ lumen on a pair of 26650 batteries.

To start off Jason PM’ed me so know that I know positively nothing about this light or thread besides what I scanned on this page.

Far as using the BLF name on the light, while there is no technical rules for using the name, I think that the BLF name should be reserved for lights that are “completely” designed by BLF, using BLF firmware / drivers and to our standards.

My own personal standard for a “BLF” light is a light that I do not need or want to mod after I buy it.

Most lights made now days get input from BLF members in some form, so the line needs to be drawn someplace or BLF will loose it’s meaning on a light.

That is just my opinion though.

Lights like the Q8, GT, FSW3 (SP? yeah, I am that far out of the loop) are good examples of this.

I see some people asking about XHP70.2 tint.

There is a massive variance in XHP70.2 tints, much more then the model numbers would seem to say in my experience.

Good tints are not easy to find as we are finding with the GT70.

I do not recommend slicing the production lights, all the XHP70.2’s I have sliced so far turn some level of green, although the very cool or very warm versions seem to hide this the best. It will also get warmer by 300-500k when sliced as well.

Could be it would turn out fine… but it also could end up being a mess if not done properly.

Maybe it would be done properly… maybe not.
And this is assuming SOFIRN would even considering doing it in the first place.

“Years of training”…. I assume that was an overstatement. :wink: . But it would take some training & time is money… which will add to the price.
The dedoming will add to the price also. Is everyone going to be OK with that for a ‘feature’ they may not even want for this light?

Something I wonder, if dedoming is so quick & easy; why do people charge so much go do it?? Is there a high failure rate?? Beats me, IDK; but I do wonder.

The condensed version: Basically the same as a L6 or S70s. Single 70.2, pair of 26650. Side and tail switch. It may have a 90mm head instead of a 75mm. I hope SMO reflector. Driver and UI is not decided.

Sounds nice, although unless they use BLF firmware / driver and get a good tint LED, I know a lot of people would still want to mod it with said parts, so not sure I personally would qualify it as a “BLF Series” light, but that is just me.

So I guess it depends on what they end up going with in the end.

I don’t see any issue with using BLF in the name seeing as the light is being made for us by us its still a BLF build. As for the driver its better for them to make the driver its good inventive for them. For us its less time consuming and won’t take as long to build the light and will keep cost down. Maybe we can use BLF firmware on there driver but the original modes already sound good.

Look at the Astrolux A01 that is a BLF edition light. In the end it doesn’t really matter but if we are going to have major input its a loss to not have our name on it.

The only time we have ever had an issue was after the first BLF A6 driver where made. We had companies trying to place BLF naming on random lights because they saw how big the group buy was.

/\ … :+1: … Agreed.

Wellp, “FUBU” is already taken, so… :smiley:

Thanks @Sofirn for stepping up on this project, I think it’ll be a big success for your company and for BLF consumers.

Also thanks @Sofirn for asking about using the BLF name.

Thanks @JasonWW too for the input. I agree that Sofirn SP70 sounds like a good name. Since I assume that the actual design and engineering will be handled in-house by Sofirn, they deserve the credit. Of course, if that changes, or if they decide to use a BLF driver, or if some BLF member(s) have a significant level of participation in the actual design/engineering, we can re-evaluate the name.

I would of course appreciate it if you mention somewhere in the final product description that it was developed with input from BLF members.

I would definitely prefer well hidden blinky modes. I frequently use strobe mode to discourage lurkers in a dark corner of my back yard. As for the UI, I think I would like:

  • Double-click to Turbo
    • Double-click to Strobe
      • Single-click to Beacon1
      • Single-click to Beacon2
      • Single-click to SOS
  • Double-click back to Turbo

That is the whole plan we build the light the way we want it. They will design the light to our specs giving us a choice of parts and design from our feedback in the thread.

I understand. So let’s just hold off on deciding the final product name until we have the final specs nailed down. For now SP70 is good enough for internal discussion.

I’m surprised you don’t like the triple click for strobe. You can get to it faster and simpler. Maybe you think it’s too easy to accidentally activate? If so, maybe it can be changed to 4 fast clicks. Then if you try to activate Turbo and press one extra time by mistake, it will just do nothing instead of surprising you with strobe.

One of the good things about my suggestion was that dbl clk is always turbo and nothing else. Also, a single click is always either on/off or back to the previous level. Nothing else.

Plus it seems natural to cycle through the blinky modes the same way you cycle through the brightness modes. This just makes sense to me.