It’s using a buck driver with 4.5A max. The driver may also not be replacable.
Like I was saying, a few pictures of the internals would be nice…
I can’t fathom a Buck driver to run a single LED from a single Li-ion cell, doesn’t compute.
I mean, I really don’t care, I’ll change it, just don’t understand the why…
The driver is ALWAYS replaceable. 
That clip is cracking me up, I must look pretty much like that trying to figure out the use of a Buck driver… ROFLMAO
Exactly. My wife and I pissed away the price of this light a few nights ago, drinking 2 manhattans, and 2 glasses of a good merlot. And that was before we got seated for dinner.
Justin used to always say “It is what it is…” Reckon we’ll see soon enough.
“4.5A” - Excited!
“…not be replaceable.” - Confused and sad
I think Al’s facial expression was my roller coaster of emotion :laughing:
This… is exactly what I was thinking… right before I bought one. 
If the factory driver has the switch mounted to it, your aftermarket driver would need to be custom designed to fit a switch on it as well or so I assume.
I mentioned this theory in post 393.
Be careful assuming things Jason, I rebuild em in all manner of ways.
Edit: I’ve piggybacked a smaller driver onto the stripped former driver, retaining only the switch and re-using it. I’ve glued a switch to a completely new contact board and piggybacked my driver choice onto the new contact board. Doesn’t bother me to put a mechanical clicky in the tail cap and fore-go the e-switch altogether. Usually depends on whatever notion I get while in the process of rebuilding a light. I tend to use parts that are at hand, whatever is easiest to grab or whatever can be modified to work. All part of the challenge. 
And 4.5A is so 2 years ago. 6.7A to an XP-L HI, much closer to excitement producing.
On the other hand, buck driver is ideal for low Vf leds, like 219c or LH351D
One might would think that would be the case, but at 4.5A the LH351D is going to have a forward Voltage of around 3.5V, not a lot of headroom for the 4.2V cell especially for all those folks that don’t charge one up to 4.21V to begin with. So it’s pretty much a moot point to have the Buck driver, and especially so since the light comes equipped with an XP-L HI which are notorious for having a high Vf to begin with. Moot point. To my way of thinking, wrong choice.
Well, the 4.5A is turbo, 3.5A is top of the ramp and is probably meant to be the more practical use option.
When it comes to driver swapping, I have to look at the bigger picture, not just what one person is capable of.
BTW, I suspect Lumintops ODF30 of having a similar layout (no driver retaining ring and switch attached to driver). No one has been able to loosen the glue on the battery tube yet.
I may try to heat it up real good, but not so hot to melt the rubber button cover or discolor the finish, and see if I can use my leather welding gloves to twist that sucker apart.
any word on shipping yet?
Top off the ramp should be half the amps of TURBO, IMHO
shipping might start end of this or early next week
TA made some last improvements in the UI and Lumintop wanted to deliver all lights with that last version.
Sorry for the delay, but I am sure it's worth the wait :)
thats no problem sounds good.
/\ ……. :+1:
