The resistors and the LDO costs in serial production less than 20 cents so why not stick it on it
Of course a sort of LVP like I am planning on my tail boards would be possible as well, but that costs like 0.6$ more
But pogo pins do need some support, they are long, thin and bendy. Which is why I suggested a 3D printed support.
Perhaps a big dollop of hot glue might suffice.
Back in the day my kit was designed for ATE on a GenRad/Teradyne bed of nails, with guided probe for detailed stuff. Everything made extremely precisely and solidly.
Not necessary for a torch. Just a common flashing interface.
I fear, you won’t have fun soldering pogo pins aligned with your design, lexel, something like this with a notch for automatic alignment might be better. Was still difficult to solder though, especially with iron, I was successful with hot air finally. But hot air might cause problems with a 2-sided design.
I’m hoping Hank might offer a flashing kit too, but I don’t know if that will happen. For now, I could stand to get some pogo pins (or really any pins) to put into my ribbon cable, since I haven’t had a chance to try out the flashing pads yet.
The pink surface-mount LEDs are nice. I built a clock with those… one LED per pixel.
I’d love to see a mixed LED board with two resistors to adjust the relative brightness of two channels. They’d both still be on at the same time, like the current design, but the colors could be a lot more interesting. Like doing half-and-half with royal blue and photo red emitters, to make a really vivid purple.
But TBH, I don’t care all that much about the aux LEDs. I’d much rather have the option to get a primary MCPCB with two LH351D 4000K 90CRI and two LH351D 5000K 90CRI emitters. I think that would be just about ideal, both on the D4S and the original D4. This sort of mixing doesn’t work as well on a triple, but a quad is a perfect host for it.
Er, it could do 3000K + 5000K if you wanted it to be a 4000K light. There’s no problem with the optic which would interfere with that.
I want it closer to 4500K though, and neither the 219c nor the LH351D comes in that tint. So I may try to mix 4000K and 5000K emitters. Plus, it’ll probably look a bit better than a native 4500K emitter would anyway, because tint mixing is cool that way.
Or I could go even wider like I did on my wide-spectrum BST, with four different tints ranging from 3000K to 6500K, but that’s trickier to get right, looks weirder up-close, and makes rainbow shadows. The result on mine is pretty fantastic though, and it really makes colors look vivid.
Has anyone tried mixing the 4000 and 5000 K LH351D with the clear Carclo quad? Does it blend well or are the corners visibly different and you should swap to a frosted one? And does the angled quad board help compared to the old version?