Jump on green one if you want
it. Those will go first. Lots of guys wanting that color.
Lii 50A does not fit in original design (Oct '17). Micmania #123 did mention that current batch is able to fit wider 26650.
My green M8 arrived today, same as micmania, I hate cool white!
Has anyone reflashed these with narsil?
Edit to add, not sure if this has been mentioned, mine is USB-C.
hmm … 
mine has USB-C too … and of course I have to add that there was a light-blue sleeved USB-C cable in the box. and wtf … a spare lens was found :disappointed:
Yup, strange!
Just found out today that press and hold from off turns the light on in last mode memorised.
If it’s possible to reflash the driver, this will be the first I try. LED swap should be pretty straight forward.
Can any who owns Green Version give feedback on CW VS NW ? I am a CW guy due to brighter tint. But interested if NW is not yellowish or egg colored. I have the Green coming. Please advise.
CW vs NW tint comparison for M8 v2. Most likely BG only offer CW right now.
I received my green one a few days ago, and it certainly is not neutral white.
To my naked eye, it looks CW to me.
New M8 V2 comes with type-C port now. Does yours come with battery too?
Thanks freeme. I ordered the Green Version from BG the other day. Glad I got CW. I was considering NW to compare at later time.
Nice, Can not wait to get mine.
Huh? I hope it does come with battery. Do you know if it came with latest batch or Green Version? I ordered mine about 1-2 days ago.
I am not aware of the changes until recently. Have to check with their customer support. Ramping has been replaced by low, medium, high arrangement now.
No battery came with my green one that has USB-C connector, and came with a blue USB-C cable.
Anyone who got M8 would you check how many KCD it throw ?
Mine just shipped out BG. Do you know when these changes were made? I hope mine were from latest batch with updated UI, battery, USB , etc….
My green version arrived today. USB C charge port, blue USB C charge cord, no battery and it is CW with NO stepless ramping. Button is not great. There is a delay between depressing the button and the light activating. There was no instructions. Light wouldn’t work at first until I removed the big black washer around the spring in the head. My black version has USB micro port, no battery, great switch with stepless ramping. The NW on my black version is close to the BLF GT
I have made a request for neutral white option. Remember to subscribe this thread for updates.
I'm working on upgrading my black M8 with a TA NarsilM driver - will keep the stock NW XPL HI in that one. Had to rotary tool/sand down the driver to fit. Just got in a green one, and same as above - definite cooler tint, hold to toggle thru modes, 2X click to turbo. Single click to lo from off. Single clicks are frustratingly slow to respond, least for me. I'd be dead all the time in COD if my gun responded this slow...
The LED in my green one is definitely not a 6500. The UV light does not lie - it shows a fair amount of glow, so I'm guessing about 5700.
Here's what I measured, using my PVC lightbox somewhat calibrated against high end rated flashlight.
- Black M8, stock, on EFEST 4200 @4.16V, lumens: 945 @start, 880 @30 secs, 101 kcd (636 meters) taken at 5 meters
- Green M8, stock, on blue LK 5000 @4.20V, lumens: 1160 @start, 1100 @30 secs, 120 kcd (693 meters) taken at 5 meters
This sort of makes sense now. The 1200 lumens and 800 meter rating is inflated of course, as usual, but the CW version seems to do wayyy better than the NW version in output and throw.
For the black M8 modding, the switch on the black M8 is given me problems - it's not your standard 4 wire wiring for 2 color LED's. Normally: Grnd, switch, red LED, blue LED, but this switch uses 3 wires:
- switch, 1 wire on grnd side of LED's with LED's wired in series (???), and 1 wire than feeds the LED's and also has a 10K resistor to the other side of the switch
I dunno exactly what it's doing, but seems like it's pumping voltage across the LED's in series, where the blue one engages over a certain voltage, and the RED engages under that voltage. Might just punt on supporting the LED's, and jump the resistor to get straight simple access to the switch.
Hhhmmm. Might have to re-think keeping with the stock XPL HI. I got XPL HI V2 5D's in from Hank which are probably a higher bin and better or equal tint.
Old Black M8:
Finished the mod - does about 1450 lumens, 145 kcd or so, with stock LED/Noctigon. 20 AWG LED wires that are long enough to re-flash the driver without de-soldering wires, bypassed both springs, TA 30 mm driver sanded down to ~28 mm.
Newer Green M8:
The new green M8 is different in a few respects:
- no more clunky snap ring driver retainer - glued/press fit ring that must be poked loose from the top thru the wiring holes. Mine came off fairly easy though. Driver is glued in this ring (ring appears to be brass plated??), but again, not too difficult to hammer it out with couple light taps on a nail set type tool.
- driver is totally different, not just firmware modes. Now of course it's USB-C, but other parts changes. Driver size is still bout 28 mm, still do-able with a TA 30 mm driver sanded down, then press fit into the brass plated ring.
- No longer using a nice Noctigon, now it's the cheap copper no-name, usually these are not DTP - didn't check yet.
- battery tube is very slightly wider in the interior so standard LK's fit, as well as old protected TrustFires and KeepPowers fit fine now
- uses a black LED centering piece, while I think the old M8 used a white one (not 100% sure though, might have mis-placed it)
- looks like the same 3-wire weird switch/LED wiring... ugh!
The new green M8 tube and tail cap LEGO with the black M8, so seems like no changes there. Please note the driver spring appears to be Hank's (IOS) high quality Beryllium copper ones -- match exactly as best as I can tell, but the tail spring is different, probably typical gold plated steel.
I modded NarsilM to work on TA's triple channel driver without the bank of 7135's so it behaves exactly like a FET+1 driver (Q8, Emisar, etc.).
This light reminds me so much of the ol XinTD X3 which I really like, but improved in many ways -- not as heavy, smaller, and of course the e-switch which I always prefer. Almost seems like Hank was passively involved in this light, like the XinTD's.