GT mini~reflash the latest firmware~

Here is the complete firmware file for the Mini-GT

TA, are they using a sense resistor to limit current?

It is an FET driver, so no sense resistor is needed.

Basically a 2 channel TA driver.

So why only 3A and 1200 lumens?

Is their choice of MOSFET that poor?

Thanks Texas_Ace for posting the sourcecode.

Like the GTmini for being a thrower with a simple, almost famillier driver,small and single 18650.

Having the sourcecode now makes me even like it more.

I have not taken an official reading but I expect it to be the normal for an XP-L HI, without spring bypasses, ~4-5A.

1250 lumens is pretty good for an XP-L HI without spring bypasses.

Steel shows a Uni-T clamp meter on it, out of light, making only 3A on a GA and less than 3.5A on a VTC6, pretty lousy. Should be doing closer to 6A on that C6 and around 1500 lumens or more.

If that’s all that driver can do I’ll have to wipe it and build an FET+1 with the more standard components. Should be able to see over 1700 lumens in the assembled bypassed light.

That’s if, of course, I stay with the XP-L emitter…

The wires are about 50x too long in those pictures as well and causing massive voltage drop.

In the light the readings will be much higher. I can take some on my light if people want but it is using a NW LED I swapped in instead of the stock LED.

The driver is the same as any other FET driver, the only real change you could make outside of spring bypasses to get more power would be swapping the FET for a lower resistance model. Although the one they are using is not bad.

I’m thinking the driver spring is the real (POS) problem, probably using a XP-L HI V2 instead of a V3. I have only found and used the V3’s in 1A and 1C, I don’t know of any Neutral Warm V3’s only V2’s.

The MOSFET is an Infineon, BSC009NE2LS-DS. I use the same FET, no problems getting over 23+amps with it.

Same FET Lexel use’s on his High Output drivers…

I agree, that spring is not very good.

I just took a reading with my light and the swapped LED and got 4.5A without bypasses. Basically what I would expect and what they rated it at.

What diameter is the driver?

Technically it is a 22.5mm driver but it is press fit and needs to be lined up with some bumps in the edge to work, so I would not plan on swapping drivers, piggybacking is a more practical option if that is needed, although I don’t see that working out real well since I doubt a buck driver would fit.

That is unless someone makes a driver just for this light.

Here’s a few measurements from my CW version. With a 30Q @30s I got 2.85A at top of ramp and 5.5A on turbo. Quite good. Same clamp meter as Steel.

I also got 148kcd @30s.

So quite good performance.

I have a lot more numbers if anyone wants them. Link here.

148kcd is really good. Is that with the spring bypass or stock?

Also do you have a D1S to compare it with?

That’s stock. The tail cap has a double spring, but the driver is a single. At least it’s a short single spring.

I don’t have a D1S.

thanx!

is there much difference between using a 30Q battery or a samsung 35E battery ?

For most situations, I would go with the 30Q.

Lower internal resistance, so more power, and more efficient at higher power levels than 3A.

Like BSM said, with a FET light like this, a high drain battery will get you higher output than a high capacity battery.

You basically trade some of that high output for some extra runtime when the voltage gets real low.

Here is a comparison with the Sanyo GA 3500, it’s very similar to the 35E.

As you can see, they are both pretty good. There are just some small differences.

okay great gonna use the 30q then :slight_smile: