3 Minute 30 Cent Mods

Too many. I went to Amazon and just goggled “20mm collimating lens” (yeah, go figure) and got a bunch from LEDsupply.

Got some coming in from AX, some generic supplier for a 5pak of 10pak or whatever,

Best bet as to being choosy is from LEDsupply. I’ll go find the link…

That was easy…

If you want a 20pak or so, Amazon’s the place. Probably won’t have to wait 3mos to get it.

Ugh, was phrased horribly.

I got a bunch from LEDsupply.

Before that, I went to Amazon and found some TIRs, but “TIR” was nowhere to be found in the description, only “collimating lens” in various combinations’n’permutations. Narrow it down with “20mm” if you want to.

LEDsupply lets you order singly, etc., but Amazon usually has bulk paks of 20 or more.

Thanks , will give it a try.

I got mine from here : leddna.com

Oh, LEDsupply also has 26mm TIRs in case you want to a D26/P60/P90, but you’ll need a spacer to make up for the TIR height vs reflector height.

Still not reflowing my own led’s, I always buy them on a pcb. Especially the alu ones tend to be a bit warped. Every new pcb+led that goes into one of my lights, gets a flattening trip on a lapping stone. But a sheet of fine sandpaper on a glass plate also will do the trick. It makes better contact (IMHO) and saves on thermal grease. You only need a hint instead of a blob.

Not sure of the correct size for S2+. Does the emitter type matter? I found these 45degree ones on Amazon. I am guessing 45 degree will give smooth beam?

Also, at the Led site , I see various models that have the same specs. For instance , I see different numbers for 20mm wide angle ripple but no way of knowing what the difference is between them . Are holders needed for S2+?

20mm is the “right” size, but they might be listed as 20.1mm or some rot like that. They fit.

The inside of the front bezel keeps the TIR more or less flat, and as long as the LED is centered in the hole, all should be okay. XM vs XP (5050 vs 3535) shouldn’t make much difference, especially with a wider-angle lens.

Ideally, TIRs should have the “shoe” that acts as a centering ring and spacer, lifting the lens just a smidge off the pcb, but it’s not critical. I wedged one in there, had a hard time doing so, but it worked. Also worked well without it, either.

Just get an assortment, play around with it, and you’ll likely find one that suits you.

60° is a nice flooder, especially for a headlamp, but also in a S2/S2+ that’s mainly to be used close-in and you’d want it to be nice and floody.

:+1:

Will a XHP50.2 fit under one of these? With boost drivers coming (eventually) this may be good way to clean up a 50.2 beam in a S2+ host

XHP50.2 is basically the same form factor as XM-L/2, 5mmx5mm.

All this talk of lens got me to thinking about DC Fix . I have been meaning to use it on a C8 to smooth out the beam. Finally got around to it . Looks much better on the wall . Won’t be able to test it outside tonight because we are in a frickin monsoon this week in NEPA.

That is only the footprint though. Its a decent amount taller

All this talk of lens got me to thinking about DC Fix . I have been meaning to use it on a C8 to smooth out the beam. Finally got around to it . Looks much better on the wall . Won’t be able to test it outside tonight because we are in a frickin monsoon this week in NEPA. Thanks Boaz for turning me on to it.

Nice tip Henk4U2! Where were you many, many mods ago? For a recent mod I was filing down the edge of a copper 3 LED MCPCB after I made it smaller and then ran the bottom of it over the file and was surprised the middle around the hole actually filed down more than the rest.

A no cost simple mod you can do if you have a beam with artifacts is to take your glass lens and sand down 1 of the sides with medium grit sandpaper. Not sure if it will work with an AR lens or a big lens. I did it with a Convoy S2+. Just press the lens down hard on the sandpaper and move it back and forth in 1 direction, rotate the lens, sand some more, and continue until the etching (i.e. scratches) is consistent across the lens.

If it doesn’t work the first time, you can start over again on the same side. It took me 4-5 attempts until it turned out to my satisfaction. And I was shocked as to how well it smoothed out the beam. The LED had a crack in the dome which caused a very annoying artifact. This mod smoothed everything out perfectly.

And as a bonus, the lens is still glass so it remains durable.

12 cents worth of dc fix will smooth out your beam .

*edit > less than a nickle for an S2+

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Geuzzz wrote:

I like baking the ano of a flashlight. Should cost you less than 30ct of gas. !

Baking a flashlight is a cool .14 cent mod

My newest crazy habit is to bake all of these cheap shiny silver clips that come on lights these days till they turn beautifully bronze like your flashlight in the picture above. The bronze on black is a much nicer look and it happens in minutes .Either roast the clip over an open flame or just throw them up on the electric burner on high .About 50 seconds open flame and about three minutes on an electric burner ..super simple mod that produces nice results .

final cost...03 cents

# - Someone was talking about.... adding a magnet to the side of a clip using heat shrink.

# - Used some clear nail polish on a few 18650's that got nicked ..nice 3 second 3 cent mod.