Ended

I would like two of these if they are still available.

I received two of these, awesome lights ! Thanks freeme ! :smiley:

Zanflare T1 came in today. It’s a cute little thing!

Some measurements
CCT range: 2600-5900 K
CRI Ra: 81-86
CRI R9 : 2-25
TM-30 Rf: 81-84
TM-30 Rg: 93-96

All the middle CCT modes are very nice in tint next to the BBL. The extremes are a bit above it, but not bad at duv 0.004 for the cool and duv 0.003 for the warm white.

Color and tint don’t change with brightness, which proves there’s PWM. It’s not an issue though, it’s very fast and only visible to some cameras.

After getting used to the user interface it’s very easy to use. Single tap of top to switch between cool and warm. Hold to change brightness. Double tap to switch to the adjustable CCT mode. Tap and hold to change CCT, release to set. Single tap to confirm, tap and hold to change brightness. I wish it did remember the brightness of the adjustable CCT mode after you go back to the CW and WW presets. Now it blasts full power when you return with a double tap.

Battery end cap gets very hot, some serious losses there. There’s no marking on which way the battery goes in (positive in first).

CRI data in warm white mode

Cool white

Couple of modes in between

Thank you maukka, interesting info!!! :+1:

Got my two today - great well-thought-out light, from internal charging to hanger clip to cool/warm/red modes to magnetic base - these are a home-run, super-useful.

Looks like we need to bypass that tailcap spring.

Yep, probably do. As maukka said, it get’s pretty hot down there.

Standby current is 170 µA. Two years two drain a 3000 mAh battery.

The tailcap spring resistance is huge, 74 mOhm. No wonder it heats up. Definitely recommended to bypass it.

For reference, that’s 4 times as much as the similarly long spring of the Acebeam EC65.

My guess would be that this stock spring would activate the low voltage protection earlier than necessary giving less running time.

Current is pretty low. I suspect the tailcap gets warm because it’s the only place via the metal battery tube to dissipate heat.

Yeah, been running it at (1 amp which is around what the lantern draws) for a while and it’s not very hot. But does get hot at 2 A. If it’s a constant current driver, the current is higher on low battery. Has anyone done runtime graphs yet?

edit: maybe the heat path of the whole thing is directly connected there, since it looks like the whole bottom piece is part of the same aluminum block. The tailcap is just the only place without plastic molding.

here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/51852

I let the light run a couple of minutes with just the usb power connected (no battery) and the tailcap got warm (hot after 10 min). It’s the led and driver heat flowing there. Combined with the battery and spring heat, it’s no wonder then. The whole battery compartment seems to be the led heatsink as well.

If it’s not too late, I’m interested in 2 lanterns once this GB starts up again.

7/18

7/22

Any updates from them this past week …… :question: :beer:

T1 is in stock again. :sunglasses:

Hey freeme, is there a new coupon for this? The old one doesn’t work anymore for me (I’ve already ordered one T1 using the old coupon code)

wait for a new codes.thank you

I would’ve gotten another one as well, but the $5 shipping and the coupon not working kills it for me.