[M4Ddeal active]: Rofis MR50

Hi Max, I tried submitting the form on your blog, but didn’t get anything yet. please count me in for one. I saw price some where, but can’t find it now. But this is less than an expensive lobster meal correct?

Ordered, thanks.

did you check your spam?

or just look into m4d m4d deals (if you are member)

I’ve yet to see a bad high capacity 21700. So far they are all from major brands or else Liitokala which is good quality. I would not worry too much about it.

To be 5000mah, it’s probably from a major brand like the LG M50 cell.

I had to pass on the MR70 due to no 1000 lumen mode (450 or 1800). I’m hoping this model has a real 1200 lm high mode (or a bit lower). That’s what I need. :smiley:

I assume it uses the same one click on/off and you press and hold to cycle through the modes, dbl clk for turbo?

for the difference in output, capacity, and feature of sidelight at +$10,
I bought another MR70 for my car.

(I did use your link and code tho) :money_mouth_face:

The big difference with this light is it’s much smaller and lighter than the MR70. Not much bigger than an 18650 light.

not having held one I can’t conclude like you
Butt the omission of the sidelight is a dealbreaker for me

Ordered MR50

thank you :)

Hi

I just wondered if anyone has had any issues with their MR50? Mine will not stay on turbo for more than a couple of seconds. I have fully charged the battery and that made no difference. I have used another 21700 battery and still get the same thing.

Is there something I have missed?

Thanks for any advice received.

Good contact is essential. Make sure your battery ends and springs are clean. Clean any grease off the bare aluminum of the battery tube and tail cap so they get good contact.

Is your other battery protected? These boost drivers always perform better with unprotected high drain cells.

If cleaning doesn’t fix it, you can try bypassing the tail cap. Take some thick, short wire and connect the battery negative to the bare battery tube. Then see if turbo is longer or the same.

If none of this changes anything, you might need to ask the manufacturer. It’s possible it’s defective.

I have experienced the same thing with mine. I thoroughly cleaned every point of electrical contact (there was grease on the bare end of the battery tube and on the bare metal in the tailcap). I cleaned the both ends of the battery, and the contact plate where the positive end of the battery makes contact inside the battery tube and the spring in the tailcap. Then a little general fiddling with the battery and tightening the tailcap, I was able to get it to stay in turbo. It is definitely very finicky though. So clean, clean, clean and fiddle a bit you should be able to get it to stay in turbo. And of course you need a fully charged battery for it to stay in turbo for any appreciable length of time.

I didn’t say to bypass the spring in the tail cap. That could void the warranty. I said to temporarily bypass the tail cap. This is two very different things. This can help pinpoint if there is an issue with the tail cap or if there is an issue somewhere else.

Sorry, my bad. I just skimmed your post (READING is fundamental) and assumed that’s what you meant, and we all know what happens when you assume… :blush:

It turned out to be the positive terminal which was a bit dirty. All working OK now thank you.

thanks for sharing that!

glad it works now

Cool.

These boost drivers are quite sensitive to any extra resistance. If the resistance goes up the driver tries to draw more and more power from the battery which causes the voltage to sag even more which makes the driver kick down to a lower level. It can be a vicious circle.

Bypassing the springs on both ends can give benefits, as well as using an unprotected battery, but I don’t want you to void your warranty.

What about the tint ?Are there 2 versions CW and NW?

I would like hi cri option also,if possible.