Here we go with the math again.(Steel’s lights)I took Maukkas readings at 30 sec.
So we got 35 and 34.1 which is somewhere around .972. (so if 40 is the reading-38.88)
And we got 98 and 94.5 which is somewhere around .965. (so if the reading is 485-468.02)
Now, since we have a difference should we average the .972 and .965? ( .968.5 )
We get up into the higher numbers with the S2 and the number goes smaller ,say .945 do we just average all numbers or just the two calibrated lights we have?
Sorry to be so dumb about this. Math is not my forte’.
Since the lux meter is probably not filtered perfectly I would use different correction factors for different types of lights. Check out djozz’s great lux meter tests for more info. Test1, test2, test3, test4, test5.
I just yesterday found out that my most used integrating sphere warms up the spectrum by a few hundred K, maybe I should use a cheaper luxmeter to compensate for that :party:
I have a new Extech LT45 luxmeter (to be tested together with some other new luxmeters) that because of the imperfect spectrum sensitivity has pre-sets for different light tints, which is about the same what you suggest here.
I disagree. Plus I don’t think it’s calibrated. If keeping the leaking light in the tube makes the readings go up, then it’s reading high.
In my opinion, the fit around the light should be a bit tighter (although it doesn’t always seem to make that big of a change) and the lux meter needs to be pushed all the way in. This is how you will get consistent results with other lights.
The meter position will be relative, it will effect all the readings by a fixed percentage. It basically becomes part of the calibration.
That said I do not recommend using the meter position as part of the calibration as it is too hard to keep it consistent over the long term.
Adding a little electrical tape to the inside of the 1st bend would be a better way to fine tune the readings since that will not be effected by bumping the sphere.
That was the point I was trying to make earlier. It’s best to put the meter all the way in so that it’s consistent and then find some other way to adjust the output up or down to get the correct Lumen reading straight from the meter.
Also, the vast majority of my lights have a fairly decent fit through the centering ring holes. If I were going to be using those extra small diameter lights to do the calibration, I would probably rig up something simple to prevent that extra light from getting out.
Thats about right… i got 3150 lumen @ turn on… and 3090 lumen… odf30 is a joke… sometimes turbo mode doesnt want to work… lumintop should have use spring tailcap… oh well…